Neutrogena's scientist debunks 4 top myths surrounding retinol and how to best use it
Plus, top skin care tips and the best ways to introduce retinol into your beauty routine so you won't get skin irritations
Social media has been talking about this ingredient – Retinol. Yahoo Life Singapore asked Neutrogena's in-house scientist, Dr Era, who has been brewing concoctions and conducting tests in the lab for the past 14 years, why retinol is on everyone's lips, who it is suitable for, and also debunks four top myths surrounding this "gold standard anti-ageing ingredient for skin". Read on for top tips on retinol usage and the best discounts on Lazada from 15 – 17 May for the new Neutrogena Rapid Wrinkle Repair Retinol range.
Get the new Neutrogena Rapid Wrinkle Repair Retinol range from Amazon | Lazada | Shopee | iHerb.
Yahoo Life Singapore: What is retinol, and how similar is it to vitamin A?
Dr Era: Retinol is a dermatologist-recommended form of Vitamin A for skin ageing. Retinol belongs to the retinoid family's umbrella, a class of Vitamin A derivatives. Structurally, retinol requires a two-step conversion into retinoic acid, the active form that works immediately but is also known to be harsh and irritating on most skin types. On the other hand, retinol is a gentle form of Vitamin A and is generally well tolerated. Therefore, it is suitable as an ingredient for anti-ageing results when appropriately used in skincare. In addition, retinol is an important class of antioxidants that helps prevent free radical damage and increase collagen and elastin production, reducing visible signs of skin ageing.
How does retinol benefit our skin? And why is it trending in the beauty industry now?
Retinol has always been the gold standard anti-ageing ingredient for skin and has been a top recommended skincare active by dermatologists. Retinol – and precisely the uniquely stabilised pure retinol formula in the Neutrogena Rapid Wrinkle Repair Retinol range – helps to continuously renew the look of skin as it accelerates the rate of skin cell turnover.
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This means that new and fresh skin cells make their way to the skin's surface faster than they would naturally. Retinol also stimulates new collagen production, increasing skin collagen content and promoting hyaluronic acid production, which is a significant contributor to retaining skin moisture. In addition, retinol reduces the activity of enzymes which specifically break down collagen. These effects of retinol can help to smooth out wrinkles rapidly and diminish the appearance of dark spots.
Retinol has started to grow in popularity as skincare enthusiasts seek ingredient knowledge and act early to prevent skin ageing, possibly due to their greater interest in skincare due to COVID-19. Due to retinol's beneficial effects, such as its ability to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, it is no surprise that the ingredient has become a big beauty trend and is hailed as an active ingredient that can transform skin.
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What do we need to take note of when using retinol products? Why do we need to space it out when first using this ingredient? Any difference between those with oilier and drier skins?
For beginners to retinol, it is best to start slowly to gradually acclimate the skin to the ingredient. Start using it once a week and slowly build up to using it every other day. Spacing out your retinol usage enables the skin to get accustomed to its potency and helps minimise the possibility of skin irritation or flaking. This is especially important if you have dry skin, which may require a slightly longer time to build your skin tolerance to retinol. On the other hand, if you have oily skin, the good news is that your skin is more likely to take well to retinol formulas, and you may use it more frequently.
Remember always to perform a patch test of new products you introduce to your skin to ensure no irritation before applying on your entire face. When choosing retinol products, especially if you have dry skin, choose moisturisers or creams formulated with hydrating ingredients such as Hyaluronic Acid. This gives the added benefit of skin hydration, which can help prevent skin irritation and dryness from the frequent use of retinol.
The new Neutrogena Rapid Wrinkle Repair Retinol range contains a uniquely stabilised pure retinol formulation that delivers retinol slowly onto the skin’s surface. The slow diffusion of retinol minimises the potential for skin irritation, ensuring that skin is renewed and repaired gently. It also contains Hyaluronic Acid that helps hydrate and moisturise the skin for a smoother and rejuvenated look.
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Here are the top 4 myths about retinol and its usage
Myth 1: It is better to use retinol only at night since you need to apply sunscreen when using retinol
Retinol may make your skin more photosensitive and vulnerable to sun damage. In addition, retinol works by improving the turnover rate of your skin cells, bringing newer skin cells to the surface. Hence, it is essential to wear sunscreen to protect this new and delicate skin so that you do not end up reversing your skin results with sun damage. The use of retinol does not have to be limited to your night-time routine. You can also apply it in the morning so that retinol can continue working on your skin throughout the day. But do follow up with a generous application of sunscreen after retinol to protect your skin.
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Myth 2: Retinol thins the skin and must be avoided around the eye area
Retinol does not thin the skin; in fact, retinol increases skin thickness through the increase of skin cell turnover rate and collagen synthesis. However, the skin around the eye is thinner than other facial parts. Also, most signs of skin ageing, such as wrinkles and crow's feet, show up around and under the eye area, so this is part of the face that would benefit from a retinol addition to your skincare, such as an eye cream with retinol. As such, the use of retinol around the eyes should be applied at a low dosage to avoid irritation. Ideal for a beginner retinol user, the Neutrogena Rapid Wrinkle Repair Retinol Eye Cream is proven to reduce the look of visible signs of skin ageing. It rejuvenates and nourishes the skin around the eyes, fading the look of fine lines and wrinkles.
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Myth 3: Retinol is an anti-ageing ingredient, and thus, is suited for those 30s and above
Retinol works to improve the regeneration of skin cells. As you age, skin renewal starts to slow down. Hence, this ingredient is closely associated with minimising or even preventing ageing as it can renew the skin’s surface for radiant, younger-looking skin. It is possible to begin retinol usage from as young as your 20s. The gradual introduction of retinol into your skincare can help build up your tolerance level and fight signs of skin ageing before they become apparent. Starting a preventative skincare routine in your 20s by incorporating retinol is great. By strengthening your skin earlier in life, you can ensure a more robust foundation upon which your skin ages, and you can likely minimise the potential of developing fine lines and wrinkles.
Myth 4: Those with sensitive skin should avoid retinol totally
While not all retinol products are created equal, the Neutrogena Rapid Wrinkle Repair Retinol formula is safe to use on sensitive skin and ideal for everyday use. If you have sensitive skin, introduce retinol gradually to prevent adverse effects. Doing a patch test before using skincare products is always a good practice, and retinol is no exception. A step-up protocol is an excellent way to start by using a low concentration of retinol to allow your skin to adjust to it before gradually increasing the frequency and concentration for your skin to build up tolerance.
In addition, complement your retinol use with a moisturiser. That can be done through either the retinol-sandwich method – applying a layer of moisturiser before and after retinol or the half-and-half method – mixing an equal amount of retinol and moisturiser. For best results, consider using a retinol product with hydrating ingredients such as Hyaluronic Acid to keep your skin moisturised while the retinol works.
You may experience mild redness, a warm, tingling sensation or flaking (skin exfoliation). These are typical, temporary indications that the product is working. If the effects persist or cause discomfort, reduce the frequency of use or dosage until your skin adjusts, then revert to daily use as tolerated.
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What are some top skin care tips for radiant, healthy skin from the perspective of a skin specialist?
Hydration, retinol, and sunscreen go hand in hand. Look for products that contain Hyaluronic Acid and retinol for intense hydration that replenishes the skin. And we should always include a broad-spectrum sunscreen with a minimum of SPF 50 to protect our skin from harmful UVA and UVB. The proper layering of skincare products is also equally crucial. There is a science behind how to layer effects on your skin. The goal is to develop a routine that works well for your skin type. Key steps to guide your daily routine include starting with a cleanser, followed by toner, eye cream, serum, moisturiser and sunscreen. As you introduce retinol slowly to build up your skin's tolerance gradually, the retinol application step can come before or after moisturising. Remember the sunscreen!
Start early for optimal results. While retinol has traditionally been introduced into a face care routine around 30, getting a head start and using retinol from your mid-20s can be one of the best ways to keep your skin looking healthy and youthful longer.
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About Dr Siti Shahera Anwar
Affectionately known as Dr Era, Dr Siti Shahera Anwar has worked in beauty research for the past 14 years. Helming the role of Scientific Engagement Manager in Skin Health at Neutrogena, she brings scientists and dermatologists together to elevate science and the innovation of skin care.
