REVIEW: A new brunch menu awaits at PS. Cafe's Ann Siang Hill outlet
SINGAPORE — I have strong, unsettling feelings towards PS. Cafe. Certain quarters revere it almost like a shrine to brunch. Others go there simply to be in a space where luxury is highly curated, and the ambience is just a big pile of mood—cue hulking bouquets and freshly cut fronds so tall, they skim the ceiling. Some swear by their truffle fries. I simply swear.
PS. Cafe has never been the type of restaurant that I reach for in times of duress. A birthday dinner in July at their Fullerton Hotel outfit was more an exercise in frustration than one of gastronomical wonder. I had thumbed through the menu then, looking for something that might surprise, but all I found was a food selection that thrives on comfort and familiarity, staying the hell away from courageous cooking. The food was simply bereft of a story, the lack of which should, at the very least, encourage a chef to be more creative with what's on offer.
A second chance at a better first impression came knocking on my door when I was invited to partake in PS. Cafe's all-new sharing plates brunch items, exclusively available at their Ann Siang Hill joint. Fearing bias, I brought a friend who loves PS. Cafe and a good round of free-flow alcoholic beverages—at least more than I did—to ensure that whatever personal feelings I had for this establishment was firmly checked at the door. Naturally, the bar was set high—though not as high as their towering plants, no. We escaped the scorching dry heat and stepped through the doors to be greeted by a larger-than-life bouquet of lillies, their scent permeating every nook and cranny of the foyer.
Brunch began with a plate of Salmon Nicoise (S$12). Visually it was a riot of colours and texture – there were chunks of pleasantly pink salmon; potato quarters cooked simply such that their skin was not overwhelmingly browned; a quenelle of scrambled eggs; tomatoes so bright red as if they were harvested straight from the vine. Tasting it led to the discovery of a multitude of flavours. I was particularly arrested by the tart of the diced olives which cut into the richness of honey mustard spectacularly. There's also tuna aioli which goes to prove that you can never have too much fish in a dish, now can you?
If you're wont for a sharing plate that quickly satiates, look no further than the Grilled Cheese Toasties (S$12). It's a toasted mozzarella cheese sandwich, here served with a skewer perched on the rim of a bowl of tomato soup. For a soup that could easily be mistaken for an afterthought, it was splendidly smokey as if made by a person who loves their soup. Break apart the cheese toasties and use them to wipe clean every precious drop in the bowl.
Other worthy selections include a skewer of Seared Sumac Sirloin (S$14) on a mound of smoked yoghurt, garnished liberally with fragrant sumac, slivers of red onions, and whole mint leaves. The sirloin itself was immaculately grilled and is reason enough for this to be a compulsory brunch selection. Two Impossible Sliders—that meatless option that has been publicised to within an inch of its life—were surprisingly juicy and not all like how I remember my first brush with the Impossible patty. The mini burgers were flavourful, robust, and so incredibly well-seasoned.
Not everything we ordered was stellar, though. What PS.Cafe refers to as Wok-smoked Paella (S$16) tastes more like fried rice, albeit cooked with short-grain rice. This similarity to fried rice should come as no surprise given its “Wok Smoked” moniker. Unlike its authentic Spanish inspiration, this iteration lacks the familiar, crispy char often found at the bottom of a paella flat pan as well as the intense umami that comes from rice simmered in seafood broth over a low flame. This dish is many things, but a paella it is not.
Desserts for brunch? Well, I'd never! But we tried two desserts. Our enthused server, Evelyn, personally recommends the Dinky Jam Filled Donuts (S$12) which we thought were more tart than expected, especially when paired with the equally tangy passion fruit sauce. The sourness engulfed the entire presentation—not even the vanilla ice cream or chocolate sauce could temper it.
The other dessert was a plate of irregularly shaped Petit Banana and Blueberry Pancakes (S$13) that were meant to let us know that they has been made by hand. They were served with a scoop of very creamy vanilla ice cream, whipped vanilla ricotta, raspberries, grapes, and butterscotch sauce. This is a good attempt at a simply assembled dessert that ticks all the right boxes for a casual denouement to a Sunday brunch. Is it groundbreaking? Not in the very least. But is it comforting and easy to eat? Yes, and yes. It has ice cream. It has pancakes. It has fruits. It has a sweet sauce. There's nothing in there that will disappoint a diner with a sweet tooth. It might even convince a cynic like me to come back for brunch over and over again.
Website | +65 9797 0648 | 45 Ann Siang Road, #02-02, S069719
Monday - Wednesday : 11.30am - 11.00pm
Thursday - Friday : 11.30am - 12.00am
Saturday : 9.30am - 12.00am
Sunday : 9.30am - 11.00pm
