Lorong Ah Soo Lor Mee: Selling shredded duck lor mee for over 50 years, operates daily for 3.5 hours only

Approaching the newly-renovated Hainanese Hougang Village Centre after its 3-month revamp starting 1 Sep 2023, I couldn’t help but think, “Oh, how I’ve missed you!” My mission that day was to finally check out Lorong Ah Soo Lor Mee. I had a previous attempt that turned out to be a wasted trip when I found it closed.

Despite the fresh coat of paint and brighter surroundings, the hawker centre retained its nostalgic elements, thankfully avoiding the risk of becoming a fancy, unrecognisable place— something that I dislike about our country.

Arriving at 12.10pm, just 10 minutes after its opening, I found at least 8 people already lined up in front. This stall operates until 3.30pm or earlier, if ingredients run out.

Now, you might be thinking, “Aaron, you mean you only discovered them now?” Despite reading numerous publications raving about this stall, I wanted to check it out myself to see if the hype was worth it. “Well, better late than never, I guess!”

Despite the crowd, the queue cleared rapidly. The person behind the counter was efficient in taking orders from 2 to 3 customers at a time, memorising each order with clockwork precision. Customers had access to condiments like minced garlic, sambal, black vinegar, chilli padi and spring onions.

What I tried at Lorong Ah Soo Lor Mee

To start things off, I ordered a small Lor Mee (S$4.50) with my choice of yellow noodles. The rich-brown viscous gravy featured half a boiled egg, fish cake strips, shredded duck, tau geh and slices of ngoh hiang suspended within.

Using my chopsticks, I revealed the bed of yellow noodles which were hidden beneath the plethora of ingredients. I slurped my first mouthful and was surprised by how the yellow strands had soaked up a significant amount of broth.

My taste buds picked up subtle notes of star anise and other spices in the gravy, while the fine strips of tau geh added a satisfying crunch. Although the broth appeared thick, it actually started to water down a little as I began eating, making it less overwhelming.

I appreciated the decision to cut the fish cakes into thin strips, as opposed to the usual large slices, making consumption much easier and allowing them to glide down my throat with ease.

The sambal wasn’t a weak concoction; instead, it was a robust, umami-filled blend that was rich in dried shrimp taste, adding a fragrant and flavourful dimension to the noodles.

I must thank the smart alec who invented mixing black vinegar into lor mee. Just like mozzarella cheese to pizza, it’s the perfect pairing to enhance the overall taste of the dish, making everything more palatable with its tangy, refreshing notes.

I also decided to get the large Lor Mee (S$5.50) with bee hoon as my noodle of choice. Visually, it showcased a substantial amount of shredded duck on top compared to the small portion. Additionally, there was an extra half-boiled egg, making it a complete whole boiled egg.

I mixed the chilli padi, minced garlic, sambal and spring onions all at once and integrated them into each strand of bee hoon and gravy.

Was it the right choice to mix everything all at once? Absolutely! A three-tiered spice sensation hit me one after another. First, the fiery heat from the chilli padi unleashed its inferno, followed by the subtle spicy notes of the garlic, and finally, the gentle heat and dried shrimp flavour of the sambal came into play.

I have to admit, it was overwhelming at first. After wiping off the initial beads of sweat from my forehead, I found myself going for seconds, wanting to experience that intense sensation over and over again; it was almost like a culinary addiction.

The pieces of ngoh hiang were satisfying to have in between bites, but the only downside was that it was too floury and contained little to no meat at all.

The shredded duck was a refreshing departure from the usual pieces of pork belly or fish bits found at other lor mee stalls. It felt as if a caring aunty had finely shredded delicious chunks of braised duck just for you.

Final thoughts

After trying both bowls, I finally understood the reason behind the long snaking queues. It boasts a nostalgic, traditional taste, and not to mention, the portions of ingredients are generous.

I have to admit, lor mee is not usually the first dish that comes to mind when I’m at a hawker centre. However, after trying it at Lorong Ah Soo Lor Mee, I might just reconsider my usual food choices.

Expected damage: S$4.50 – S$5.50 per pax

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