Lao Wu Ji Mutton Soup: Hearty bowls of mutton broth with tender ribs & shiok chilli, open only 5 hours a day
The heavens seemed to know about our mutton soup tasting last week, gifting us with a heavy downpour to create the perfect atmosphere to visit Lao Wu Ji Mutton Soup at Sunday F&B kopitiam at Ang Mo Kio.
Arriving at 10.35am, I noticed that the stall’s signboard was dark, but the lights illuminating the menu were on. I approached a friendly aunty who quickly took my order and handed me queue number 5.
“We only start preparing the food at 11.15am, so just take a seat first,” she said. So, I advise you to call +65 9085 3832 (phone lines open from 10am) in advance to secure a queue number and make your selections. Or simply arrive there earlier and place your orders, then wait.
At 11.15am, just like the punctual trains in Japan, the vibrant orange signboard came to life. However, the queue number display had malfunctioned, and I watched the chef’s valiant efforts to fix it prove futile.
It brought to mind the deep admiration I hold for chefs, who often find themselves wearing various hats, as exemplified by him taking on the role of an electrician in this particular case.
After 15 minutes, it was finally my turn. I watched in awe as the aunty skillfully used a fine sieve to remove any impurities from the soup. To top it off, she added garnishes of julienned ginger and Chinese celery, showcasing her finesse.
What I tried at Lao Wu Ji Mutton Soup
Before I begin, I must mention that this is my very first experience trying mutton soup. Since I was young, my grandparents cautioned me that consuming mutton would make me susceptible to seizures. Now I realise that it was merely an old wives’ tale.
As I grew older, I developed a fondness for lamb chops and mutton satay and, thankfully, I haven’t encountered any convulsions or attempts to bite my tongue off so far.
Variety is truly the spice of life. And for those who are keen on trying a mix of different lamb parts in a single bowl, I recommend the Mixed Mutton (S$7), which I ordered. It consisted of sliced mutton, stomach, tripe, and, ahem, a pair of balls.
As usual, I dived straight in for the broth first. It was scooped out of a large cauldron in the kitchen. The soup had a rich, earthy colour and a gentle translucency.
It was delicately infused with herbal aromatics, and a pleasant underlying sweetness graced its flavour. The presence of just the right amount of grease made it more palatable without being overpowering.
If there were an award for the ‘cleanest innards’, I would nominate this stall without batting an eyelid.
The stomach glistened under the bright fluorescent lights of the coffeeshop and its taste was truly delightful, boasting the perfect texture and incredibly satisfying mouthfeel.
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There was also a precious piece of lamb tripe which had the iconic honeycomb appearance; it tasted equally as good as the stomach.
I was delighted to find that the lamb meat wasn’t the lean kind; it had the ideal proportion of fatty layers. The fat coated my entire tongue, creating a delectable creaminess that perfectly complemented the unctuous meat.
2 types of chilli were provided – one slightly viscous and the other, a diluted version filled with onion, garlic, and chilli bits. I opted to try the latter and 1 word summed up my experience: shiok!
The combination of garlic, juicy onions, and tangy notes raised my internal rating from a 9 to a perfect 10, exactly what I had anticipated. Moreover, the spice level was low, sparing me the need to wipe sweat off with tissues.
I have beef and pork balls pretty often, but these mutton ones were new to me. The taste was more complex and not one-dimensional; I guess I’ve found a new favourite!
I ordered the Mutton Ribs (S$7.50) with a bowl of Rice (+S$0.50), as I had only tried pork ribs in bak kut teh before. It came with 4 chunky lamb ribs doused in the broth, and was complemented by ginger strips and Chinese celery.
With the first bite, my teeth encountered no resistance from the tender fibres; the meat was incredibly luscious and easily fell off the bone.
Surprisingly, there was no strong gamey taste or smell which is typically associated with lamb. The ginger strips and Chinese celery balanced the richness of the meat, enhancing its overall flavour.
This time, I tried the rib meat with the other chilli sauce, and it packed a considerable amount of heat compared to the first one. The vibrant notes of acidity were still present but the overall taste was more full-bodied and robust.
Final thoughts
Later, I discovered that the friendly aunty at the front counter and the stylish chef with a ponytail working behind the scenes were actually a husband and wife duo.
They have been running the stall at this current spot for the past 7 years, and prior to that, they had stints at other locations. Their years of experience and teamwork truly shone through in the delectable dishes they served.
I’ve found a new favourite dish, and the aunty’s friendly demeanour and excellent service left a lasting impression, making me eager to return often.
Expected damage: S$5 – S$7.50 per pax
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