Kimhēkim RTW Spring 2024
Kiminte Kimhēkim set the stage for his latest collection with a piece of performance art.
Against a stark white backdrop, the first model appeared in a cage bodice and hoop skirt before a bevy of fashion students appeared like lab-coated magicians to transform the structure, attaching bows at every inflection point.
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The collection was an ode to the bow, as the designer once again played with his obsessions. They appeared in every iteration — adorning heads, closing jackets, as neckwear, and chained together as skirts and tops as a kind of bourgeois armor. The work was whimsical for the most part, though at times overwhelming.
Monochrome has defined his most recent collections. He revisited signature pieces, adding volume on jacket and shirt sleeves, while stripping down to sheer tulle on skirts and tops. An oversize pearl-embellished coat was a standout piece.
Hair is also a recurring theme in his work; this season he used it as fringe on jackets, tops and bodices.
“I’m having fun,” said the young designer. He likes to braid hair into new shapes, crafting swingy elements or constructing corsets. “I know it’s not really wearable, not commercial, but I don’t care. I enjoy making it.”
Still, as the winner of the Samsung Fashion and Design prize in 2020, he’s pragmatic enough. To that end he launched his first handbag collection called Heebo, which means “good news” in Korean. They made their debut on the catwalk in cross-body bags and computer satchels. In what is perhaps a wink to their commercial potential, the series is inspired by the shape of traditional gifting envelopes and the motif recalls vintage Korean coins.
He also partnered with Asics on sneakers.
Kimhēkim makes it clear that he understands the market. Eighty percent of the guests were cultivated from his Instagram followers. “I was thinking to share something with our true followers, and it’s really valuable for us as well, because it gives a kind of synergy between us and starts a conversation together.”
With his balance of play and practicality, Kimhēkim has it nicely tied up.
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Launch Gallery: Kimhēkim RTW Spring 2024
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