Erdem's bejewelled ponytails just won London Fashion Week
1860s Bloomsbury: two women from the 'Homes of Hope for the Restoration of Fallen Women' missed their curfew and find themselves locked out with no place to shelter for the night. Rather than giving in, they caused a commotion, a riot in the square, in the pouring rain, demanding for better treatment.
This was the starting point for Erdem Moralıoğlu's AW23 outing yesterday afternoon in a dimly lit Sadler's Wells theatre. There were stompy boots (set to be everywhere this autumn), dresses in arsenic green and canary yellow, taffeta gigot gloves and jewellery featuring lock and key, all inspired by Moralıoğlu's Bloomsbury townhouse, which once housed 'fallen and friendless' Victorian women.
But within these women lies a rebellious, strong-willed spirit reflected by the sooty, melancholic eyes created by Nars' global artistry director, Jane Richardson, who went with a 'dirty', dewy eyeliner look to capture the undone, unravelling vibe of Victorian heroines. Set against plush complexions prepped by a mini 111Skin facial backstage, it's a look that's anything but grunge as it still sees healthy skin peeping through the polished intensity of the eyes.
Meanwhile, lead hairstylist Anthony Turner stole the show with a scattering of crystals along the crown of the head all the way down to nape of the neck. According to Turner, the crystals symbolised rain drops, and it certainly took on a life of its own underneath the spotlight on the runway.
Given the intricacy of the look, only three models received the dazzling treatment, each one in a hue to match the clothing. Instead of an even scatter, the rhinestones were concentrated at the top of the head before dispersing through the back. The rest of the hair was kept simple with a low ponytail and a healthy amount of Olaplex No.9 used to create the illusion of rain-drenched hair. It's a look we'll be emulating once the wedding and festival season starts rolling around...
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