Calvin Klein Is Bringing Back Collection — and the Runway

<p>Photo: Collier Schorr/Courtesy of Calvin Klein</p>

Photo: Collier Schorr/Courtesy of Calvin Klein

After a five-year hiatus, Calvin Klein is bringing back its Collection, and it's bringing on a buzzy new creative director to steer its upcoming return to the runway.

The PVH-owned brand also announced on Wednesday night that Veronica Leoni will be taking over its higher-end range. She'll be responsible for the men's and women's Collection ready-to-wear, and will work alongside Global Brand President Eva Serrano to bring her vision to the broader product range, as well as the red carpet. (Leoni will report to Serrano.) Her first offering for Calvin Klein is expected in the fall 2025 — and will mark a return to the runway for the American house.

Leoni cut her teeth at luxury brands like Jil Sander, Céline and, most recently, The Row, where she was design director. She's also the founder of Quira, a 2023 LVMH Prize finalist.

"For decades, Calvin Klein interpreted the idea of bold self-expression, and I am willing to empower it with a strong accent on style and creativity," the Italian designer said, in a statement.

In her own statement, Serrano described Collection as "the pinnacle expression" of Calvin Klein: "It was clear from our first conversations that Veronica's life's work had been preparing her for this moment and the opportunity to define a new era for Calvin Klein. I am confident that her purposeful approach to design and work ethic, combined with our shared values, will further enrich our iconic brand and result in a collection that resonates with our consumers around the world."

Calvin Klein Collection has been on pause since Raf Simons left the company at the end of 2018, having rebranded the label as 205W39NYC. Prior to that, Francisco Costa had led the team since 2003 (the same year it was acquired by PVH).

Calvin Klein's been on a winning streak lately: It had its strongest fourth quarter in the company's history in 2023, partly boosted by marketing coups like the Jeremy Allen White campaign. It's also been building up to this announcement with strategic custom red-carpet moments over the past few months — on White for the Golden Globes, Zendaya for the "Challengers" press tour and Alexander Skarsgård and Talia Ryder for the Met Gala. Surely there's a lot more to come on this front.

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