Bak chang: will this tradition survive the changing tastes of Singapore?

SINGAPORE — The Dragon Boat Festival, also known as Duanwu Festival, is a time when people in many Asian cultures come together to celebrate and honour their heritage.

Amid the festivities, one traditional delicacy stands out: bak chang, or zongzi. These pyramid-shaped sticky rice dumplings wrapped in bamboo leaves have been enjoyed for generations during this festival.

However, in today's fast-paced and evolving world, one may wonder if the bak chang still holds the same significance it once did. Is it losing relevance amid changing tastes and preferences?

Elaine Jana, who has cherished bak chang since childhood, believes that the younger generation can still appreciate this traditional treat. "If their parents or grandparents continue to prepare bak chang for them, the younger generation is still exposed to them and continues to enjoy eating them," the 56-year-old explains.

She knows at least five siblings who carry the tradition of making bak chang. For Elaine, the essence of bak chang lies in the combination of pork, mushrooms, peanuts, and gao lak (roasted chestnuts).

On the other hand, 32-year-old Ai Ying recalls her younger days when she eagerly assisted her mother in making these savoury dumplings. However, as time passed, her family ceased this labour-intensive process, opting for store-bought, ready-made bak chang.

She observes, "It's a heavy, savoury dish, though there are also sweet varieties which may be more appealing to the younger crowd. But nowadays, I don't see my friends eating it; mostly, I would just have it with my family."

From traditional staple to adventurous delights

While traditions may shift, innovation can breathe new life into traditional dishes.

Steven Paul Vincent, a 29-year-old with an adventurous palate, believes it is important to be exposed to experimentation with traditional food. He believes that bak chang, with its range of vegetarian and non-vegetarian options, still holds potential for appreciation in the future.

"It actually depends on whether the younger generation are introduced to this by their parents, and whether one is adventurous enough to try traditional food," he says.

Steven's own exploration into innovative variations of bak chang unearthed the evolving nature of this traditional food. "I have actually tasted one with D24 durian and another one that had a taro flavour inside," he shares.

While he prefers the savoury varieties, he found these new flavours delightful. Steven appreciates the fusion and evolution of food, acknowledging that innovative twists can maintain the essence of tradition while keeping things interesting.

In an interview with Yahoo Southeast Asia on Thursday (22 June), Crystal Jade Group, a prominent culinary establishment in Singapore, recognises the enduring popularity of rice dumplings during the Dragon Boat Festival.

A spokesperson for the group highlights the consistent demand for these festive treats, indicating their significance in the local culture.

"In Singapore, the Dragon Boat Festival continues to be widely celebrated – as can be seen from the popularity of rice dumplings in terms of sales and variety during this time of year," the spokesperson said.

"While there may not be as many activities such as dragon boat racing these days, we still observe a strong demand for these festive treats even though they can be purchased throughout the year."

To cater to a diverse audience, they consistently introduces new and exciting flavours. The spokesperson mentions that their culinary team, comprised of both veteran and younger chefs, collaborates to conceptualise innovative variations while also improving upon traditional renditions.

As such, over the years, they have introduced unique flavours such as quinoa rice dumplings, hei bi hiam (spicy dried shrimp) rice dumpings, and scallion oil chicken with cai po (preserved vegetable) rice dumplings.

The ever-evolving journey of bak chang and its enduring legacy

While traditional dumplings remain a favourite among its customers, Crystal Jade Group acknowledges that customers from the younger generation are more adventurous and willing to explore different flavours.

It has also noticed an increased receptiveness to sweet versions of rice dumplings, leading the group to introduce renditions such as rice dumplings with red bean paste and tangerine peel.

Ku Keung, the executive Chinese chef at Golden Peony, Conrad Centennial Singapore, also understands the changing culinary landscape and the need to adapt to evolving preferences.

He acknowledges that while the culinary scene is constantly changing, it is crucial to preserve the essence of the festival and the cultural significance associated with bak chang.

In recent years, there has been an expansion in the variety of bak chang available to cater to diverse tastes and dietary preferences. Ku explained that Golden Peony has embraced these changes by introducing new recipes that cater to evolving palates while staying true to the festival's traditions.

Health-conscious dining and vegetarian delights take the spotlight

Amid these taste changes, there is also a growing appreciation for quality and authenticity. People yearn for rice dumplings made with care and with time-honoured methods passed down through generations.

Chef Ku said he understands this sentiment and ensures that Golden Peony's rice dumplings are crafted using only the highest quality ingredients and prepared in the same revered manner cherished for years.

"There is a growing emphasis on health-conscious dining, as well as an increased interest in exploring vegetarian and plant-based options. This has influenced the demand for authentic delicacies like our rice dumplings," he said.

To meet these evolving demands, Golden Peony has introduced exciting new additions to their rice dumpling selections, such as the Hakka-style braised pork belly with cai po Rice Dumpling, a flavour-packed option that appeals to those seeking robust flavours; and the five-grain plant-based meat rice dumpling, which caters to the rising interest in vegetarian alternatives.

As the Dragon Boat Festival unfolds each year, the relevance of bak chang appears to be a dynamic and subjective matter. While the older generation tends to hold steadfast to traditional recipes, the younger generation's exposure and willingness to explore new flavours and variations will determine the future of this cherished dish.

Whether bak chang remains a staple on the dining table or undergoes further innovation, it will continue to symbolise the enduring spirit of tradition and the evolving tastes of modern life.

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