Wanglee Cafe: Below $7 mains like chilli ban mian at Nanyang-kopitiam style eatery by ex-hawker
As the saying goes, “when one door closes, another opens.” This was the situation for Malaysian-born ex-hawker, Ah Boon, 40, who used to operate Yu Huang Premium Seafood Soup at a Taman Jurong coffee shop. Together with his team, they opened up Wanglee Cafe, a Nanyang-kopitiam style eatery at Toa Payoh Lorong 4.
“We had to close the seafood soup stall due to soaring rent prices,” Boon shared. Before he became a hawker, he worked as a hotel chef.
Located just opposite Toa Payoh Palm Spring Market— where Tea Inn Bak Kut Teh and our best-rated kway chap stall are situated— this small eatery has about 8 tables inside and a couple more for those who enjoy al fresco dining.
What I tried at Wanglee Cafe
We started off with the modest-looking Century Egg Minced Pork Porridge (S$3.80). I don’t know about you, but I’ve had people in my circle telling me that this dish is only eaten when you’re sick.
The bowl of porridge had minced pork, pieces of century egg and fried you tiao, garnished with spring onion and white pepper.
Despite its plain and simple outlook, it packed a ton of personality with regards to its taste. It was tasty and mildly peppery without being overly salty. The consistency of the porridge was silky smooth and thick, similar to congee served at a dim sum place.
The minced pork was tender, and the mild richness of the century egg bits, along with the crispy fried dough pieces, complemented the hearty porridge perfectly. This was definitely a good start!
When the Chilli Ban Mian (S$6.80) arrived at our table, I mentally prepared myself for the impending heat, drawing from past experiences of eating this dish at other establishments in Singapore and KL.
The bowl of ban mian was served with ikan bilis, minced pork, beancurd skin rolls, a poached egg, green veggies, and a dollop of sambal.
After religiously desecrating the yolk of the poached egg, I contemplated how much chilli to put. In the end, I added everything because— since I’d already ordered chilli ban mian— go big or go home, right?
The flat, fettuccine-like strands of ban mian gradually turned reddish-brown as I mixed all the elements together. Their surfaces gleamed like well-polished leather shoes as the creamy poached egg fused into the noodles.
Surprisingly, the spiciness was bearable, emanating fragrant and subtle shrimpy fragrances. Even my dad (who usually avoids spicy foods) found it acceptable.
According to Boon, the house-made chilli isn’t crafted from sambal. Instead, he uses Hong Kong XO chilli paste. Now that explains why it was so aromatic and full of umami— two thumbs up!
The beancurd skin rolls had absorbed the sauce like a piece of sponge, releasing all its flavours like a mini grenade in my mouth— so satisfying! This was my favourite dish so far.
We then moved on to the Kaya Butter Toast (S$2.80), which was presented in 4 triangular pieces. The kaya here is homemade and had a green hue, unlike the usual brown ones used by other chain establishments. The sweetness and fragrance of the coconut jam were just right, but as sinful as it might be, I wished the butter was just a tad thicker.
The final Braised Pork Rice (S$6.80) dish came with a bowl of rice topped with pieces of braised pork belly, a braised egg cut in half and pickled cucumbers.
Though the braised pork was aromatic, it was a little tough for my liking. The braised seasoning could also have been more robust. A longer braising time and stronger seasoning would have made it better.
The pickled Japanese cucumbers did an excellent job in making this dish more appetising and less overwhelming.
When I combined all the ingredients into a single spoonful, it wasn’t mind-blowing, but it was still a decent bowl of braised pork rice. With a few tweaks here and there, this dish could improve over time.
We also tried their Kopi O (S$1.50), Kopi (S$1.60) and Iced Kopi C (S$2). Boon mentioned that while brewed coffee typically yields between 80 to 100 cups, at Wanglee Cafe, they use it for just 50 cups and don’t let it sit there for more than 30 minutes.
This practice prevents the coffee from turning acidic and ensures a more full-bodied taste. And he was right, we were blown away by how fragrant and gao the coffee was.
Final thoughts
If you’re peckish and around the Toa Payoh neighbourhood, why not swing by Wanglee cafe for a cosy breakfast or a mid-day afternoon meal?
Besides the Braised Pork Rice, which could be improved, I actually enjoyed all the other dishes, as well as the solid cup of Joe served here. I’ll definitely return for more Chilli Ban Mian!
Expected damage: S$5.50 – S$9 per pax
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