Tai Wah Cooked Food: $1 pandan butterfly fritters & red bean buns at ‘90s Chinatown stall
Any foodie knows that Chinatown Complex is home to many incredible options, from Michelin-Guide meals to small eats. One never really expects what gems you might stumble upon here though; I, for instance, discovered Tai Wah Cooked Food by chance.
Something in the glass counter had caught my eye as I passed – green butterfly-shaped fritters, which I correctly guessed were pandan-flavoured. Other items offered included S$1 youtiao (fried dough sticks), buns with and without bean filling and Tau Suan (mung bean dessert) (S$1.70).
You know an item’s good when everyone in the queue orders it. When it finally came to my turn, there weren’t any butterfly buns left because they’d been sold out! Thankfully, the uncle at the back was already at work frying up a new batch of the dough treats.
While waiting, I made some small talk with the smiley auntie taking cash payments, who informed me that the stall had been around even during the 1990s. Its Pandan Butterfly fritters have been the best-selling product for years, and are always in high demand. Furthermore, the stall only uses vegetable oil to deep fry the meat-free goods, making them suitable for vegetarians.
She even dropped me a recommendation before I left with my order – Heng Ji Chicken Rice at #02-131. “Their chicken is the best, but everyone goes to the other stalls!”
What I tried at Tai Wah Cooked Food
Thank goodness I arrived at the perfect time! The Pandan Butterfly fritter (S$1) was nice and hot out of the fryer, and I could feel its heat through the thin plastic carrier.
The delicious scent of sesame and fried batter hit my nostrils the moment I pulled the fritter out of the bag. Taking a bite, I was met with a satisfying crunch from the crispy deep-fried exterior coated generously with sesame seeds and sugar, which provided a vibrant sweet and nutty flavour.
On the inside, a subtle artificial pandan taste was infused throughout the chewy emerald dough. While I could detect the pandan, it was very faint and overpowered by the stronger sesame taste from the exterior. The combination of crunchy and chewy was simply heavenly, and I patted myself on the back for arriving just in time for a freshly fried batch.
I had a sudden craving for my childhood snack, ham jin peng earlier that morning. Taking the opportunity to fulfil it, I also ordered a Salted Bun (S$1).
The Salted Bun possessed a light golden exterior, and though oily wasn’t excessively greasy. Noticeably softer than the Pandan Butterfly, its pale dough was fluffy and light with larger air pockets containing five-spice powder. I noticed that it also lacked the visible brown five-spice swirl on the exterior that’s a trait of most ham jin peng I’ve seen.
There was a slight sweetness in the plain dough, while the dashes of five-spice woven throughout the bun possessed some saltiness. Warm, spicy and aromatic, it instantly transported me back to the days of my childhood. Only then could I care less about the calories I’d get from munching on fried carbs (but honestly, does it matter? Eat what you like!)
The sweet buns from Tai Wah Cooked Food were available in 2 flavours: Red Bean (S$1) and Green Bean (S$1).
The Red Bean bun looked slightly deflated when I removed it from the bag. It wasn’t hard to differentiate it from the Green Bean as it had an extra sprinkling of black sesame seeds alongside the white. There didn’t seem to be enough filling when I pulled it open, though it could be due to puffing up after being fried.
Like the Salted Bun, the dough was pillowy and had a familiar hint of five-spice powder. Red bean paste sat in the hollow centre, giving each mouthful a sweet earthy richness.
Only white sesame seeds dotted the exterior of the Green Bean bun, which seemed fitting given that the paste within was also of a lighter hue.
Compared to the red bean, the mung bean filling was milder in taste with a less prominent nuttiness. It seemed to carry the sweetness more subtly, as it wasn’t something that instantly hit my tastebuds but rather settled in after. There wasn’t much difference between the two for me; both were equally enjoyable.
Final Thoughts
Tai Wah Cooked Food’s deep-fried fritters go perfectly with a cup of coffee or hot soya milk. I understand the hype around the Pandan Butterfly buns now – they’re delectable, addictive and an amazing treat for on-the-go, though I wish the flavour were stronger. While also good, I can only imagine how much better the other buns would’ve tasted if I’d gotten them fresh too. Despite their oily nature, they were enjoyable and I wouldn’t mind indulging in them once in a while.
Do consider this 1990s Chinatown Complex stall if you want an affordable snack while hanging around the area! Remember to grab your wallet and some cash before you drop by, as they don’t accept cashless payments.
Expected damage: S$1 – S$2 per pax
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