Soft Tailoring for Spring: What Paris Buyers Loved
PARIS — Men’s Week was indelibly marked by Pharrell Williams’ debut as creative director at Louis Vuitton. The brand celebrated with a spectacle for the ages — some attendees even said they were “witnessing history” — with a blowout event that took over the Pont Neuf bridge with a concert and branding galore. It earned buyers’ mentions for favorite collection and best show.
As the big opener, Louis Vuitton “set the tone, which was ‘showtime.’ The overall theme was entertainment,” said Rinascente head of fashion Federica Montelli.
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That frenzied vibe carried through the week with pop-up stores, collaboration launches and more parties than one could count. “The energy in town is strong and fashion is employing entertainment more than product content to drive sales.”
Kim Jones’ quieter fifth anniversary “pop-up” show at Dior was also a conceptual stunner, for its inventive use of presenting the models as well as his deft design.
Jones’ collection was cited as a favorite for his “clear focus on the clothes,” said Emmanuel de Bayser, co-owner of The Corner in Berlin. “Of course, we all love beautiful locations all around the world and mega show events, but at the end we should not forget it is all about selling clothes and products. So when clothes are again the center of attention it is very appreciated.”
Bruce Pask, senior men’s fashion director at Bergdorf Goodman and Neiman Marcus, noted the Dior collection had “a delightful sense of whimsy.”
Dries Van Noten and Loewe were also favorites among buyers, while Amiri was a major contender. It “has rightfully entered the list of the best brands in the male panorama and the path of evolution that [designer] Mike [Amiri] has made is truly noteworthy. Despite being an independent brand and not part of any large conglomerate, it manages to attract more and more celebrities and important customers,” said Riccardo Tortato, head of buying department at Tsum Moscow.
For young talent, sentiment was mixed. Some felt like the season was exploding with creativity, while others felt it was lacking due to the harsh economic realities facing new brands. Of those that showed, Bluemarble, Feng Chen Wang and Koché were among notable new talent to watch, while Botter, Hed Mayner and Marine Serre are designers gaining momentum.
Overall, buyers noted that the week was more about experiences, which they are finding true for their clients as well. They no longer want to “click and buy” blindly.
Softness was a key theme, both in tailoring on blazers and relaxed trousers, and in the color palette of grays, light blues and sand.
Tanks, sheer and other skin-baring pieces were also the talk of the town. Paired with the increasingly hot weather due to global heating, buyers felt they will move off shelves — and they may move the needle on men’s fashion too.
“When applied to a short-sleeve woven shirt or a knit polo, we’ve found the ultimate example of an item in the women’s market that was a runaway success 20 or so years ago — the going out top,” said Bloomingdale’s men’s fashion director Justin Berkowitz.
“If there’s a running theme of conversation in Paris this week, it’s been about the temperature,” Berkowitz added of temperatures that, on Sunday, topped 95 degrees with not a cloud in the sky.
Federico Barassi, vice president of menswear buying at Ssense, summed it up as his key impression of the week: “Hot and sweaty.”
Here, what buyers had to say about the Paris men’s collections for spring 2024.
Demir Aslanoglu, menswear buying director, Beymen Group
Favorite collections: Louis Vuitton, Loewe, Dries Van Noten, Ami, Marine Serre.
Best show format: Louis Vuitton’s extraordinary show on Pont Neuf bridge with a pump of top-class celebrity attendees was a big-time statement. Thanks to Pharrell and his team, it was the perfect start of a new era with a great combination of art, fashion, music, history and future.
Top trends: Dazzling colors, soft tailoring, sparkles, layered looks and fluidity.
Investment pieces: Louis Vuitton’s Speedy bags and The Row’s soft double-layered leather Bambilor Coat. We are focusing more on fashion show and statement pieces compared to in the past, as we believe there is more way to go on men’s fashion and men’s dressing styles than for women, and we will be even more surprised by the potential future changes in men’s fashion.
Budgets up or down: Our budgets are up for Paris, because brands showing here are more on the priority list of our customers. We have a more diversified customer typology in recent years, which is focusing more on fashion-forward and emerging designers.
New talent: Feng Chen Wang and Koché were the new discoveries — and interesting ones.
Impressions of the week: AI-generated fashion is getting stronger. The awareness of inclusivity and sustainability is increasing.
Federico Barassi, vice president of menswear buying, Ssense
Favorite collections: Wales Bonner, Lemaire.
Best show format: Rick Owens. There was thunder and rain that day, but the second all of the guests arrived, the sun came out.
Top trends: Collarless blazers, shiny and silver, pockets (cargo everything) and luxury leather.
Investment pieces: The Junya Watanabe belted coat, Comme des Garçons Homme Plus double-toe shoe and the Rick Owens high-waisted trousers.
New talent: Ranra, Charlie Constantinou and Lu’u Dan.
Impressions of the week: Hot and sweaty.
Justin Berkowitz: fashion director, men’s, Bloomingdale’s
Favorite collections: Louis Vuitton, Dries Van Noten, Rick Owens, Lemaire, Wales Bonner
Best show format: Kim Jones’ Dior accomplished something rare — applause before a single model began to walk. His presentation began with several dozen looks, raising up from beneath a tiled floor: the entire collection on display, en masse. Not only was it an impactful and delightful surprise to the audience, it gave the viewer a longer time to savor each look in the collection.
Top trends: In a phrase: skin is in. Shorter shorts, bare arms, and open-weave, mesh, or otherwise transparent shirts were a very consistent theme — combined, the overall effect of the season is one focused on male sensuality. This was further expressed through the use of novel fabrications and embellishments not often seen in menswear. Collections were awash with pieces that were fluid and flowy, shiny or sparkly, and embellished. What’s interesting about the majority of these more forward ideas, though the execution may be a bit finer, or pushed a bit further, is that we’ve seen many of the concepts begin on the street, which gives me confidence in how a broader male consumer may adopt them next spring, though they’ll style the look a slightly different way.
In terms of silhouette, the shape of the season is clear: fuller pants with volume, whether in denim or a more fluid fabric, and a slightly boxy cropped jacket or shirt that lands at the waist or just below, to highlight the bottom silhouette. The overall effect is fairly long and lean, and quite flattering.
Investment pieces: Pharrell’s bags at Vuitton are instant icons; the leather shopping bag was quite genius.
New talent: 4S Design’s debut presentation was excellent. Incredible and novel fabric development applied to tried and true menswear shapes looked like a recipe for success.
Andrea Burbi, buyer and brand collaboration, LuisaViaRoma
Favorite collections: Dior, Loewe, Amiri.
Best show format: KidSuper, like always lately. It’s more than a fashion show; it’s an event to attend. But also Amiri — the mood over there was what we customers need right now. Enjoying it, living an experience.
Top trends: Tailoring shorts and shiny embellishing like paillettes, for example.
Investment pieces: Tailored shorts, something that also we saw a lot of in Milan at Prada and Valentino. With shirt, tie and loafers.
Budgets up or down: Down, [we are] having a more conservative approach.
New talent: I think it’s hard in this period to emerge. I didn’t notice anything specific that caught my eye.
Impressions of the week: In terms of presentations and fashion shows there is always a lot of excitement around Paris. It always contains a lot of [celebrity buzz], especially in the June edition, with artists and athletes who can finally take part. The fashion system was already a little bit worried, having a more conservative approach and trying to understand which direction the fashion business will take. In general, people, having more awareness and consciousness, prefer to live experiences instead of just being passive, clicking and buying. We can notice a return to retailers, so we have to offer them something special that they cannot find everywhere.
Reginald Christian, men’s fashion market manager, Saks
Favorite collections: Dior, Louis Vuitton, Givenchy, Amiri, Loewe, Dries Van Noten.
Best show format: At Dior, Kim Jones’ truly breathtaking presentation. Each model fantastically emerged from the floor of the venue in an exquisite showing of silhouettes, playfulness and luxury. The Amiri show took place at the Jardin des Plantes, where guests were greeted with refreshments and gentle sounds by Isaac DaBom. The garden was the perfect backdrop for the collection full of fluid tailoring and pops of color.
The Loewe show, centered around sculpture fountains created by Lynda Benglis, shifted our perspectives to embrace the power of the unexpected. The collection featured beautifully redefined silhouettes and astonishing fabrications like crystals and supple leather.
Top trends: Trends seen on the runway pointed to the tasteful direction of modern menswear customers. Items like short suits felt effortlessly handsome and refined, best seen at Sacai. Lightweight outerwear and relaxed trousers felt refreshingly polished. Embellishments in tops and pants injected glamor into masculine wardrobes, best seen at Loewe. The tank was a quiet but entirely supportive underpinning to silhouettes. This season’s outfits were completed by sleek, low-profile skate sneakers, loafers and fisherman sandals. Bags and hats were offered in an array of nylon and raffia fabrics that will be a must-have for our travel-ready customers. Collections felt elevated and refreshing, best seen with the refined, fluid tailoring at Givenchy and the elegant silk bombers at Dries Van Noten.
Investment pieces: The astonishingly crafted tweed blazer from Dior and the sky blue crystal polo from Loewe.
New talent: Bluemarble, designed by Anthony Alvarez, continues to develop lively and sophisticated silhouettes. The oversize blazers paired with relaxed denim and vibrant silk sets will provide new and exciting garments for the contemporary shopper.
Impressions of the week: It’s been an incredibly steamy week in Paris full of breezy, vibrant and sophisticated clothing. Overall, Paris Fashion Week was all about taking on new silhouettes and fabrications that embraced the ease and excitement of menswear dressing.
Emmanuel de Bayser, co-owner of The Corner, Berlin
Favorite collections: Dior, Rick Owens, Sacai, Loewe, Ami.
Best show format: Apart from the Louis Vuitton show, which was absolutely spectacular in all regards, my favorite show was Dior, with a clear focus on the clothes. Of course, we all love beautiful locations all around the world and mega show events, but at the end we should not forget it is all about selling clothes and products. So when clothes are again the center of attention it is very appreciated.
Top trends: Fluid, easy tailoring; colors, and skin.
Investment pieces: From what we already bought for spring 2024 for men, it is first of all recognizable signed pieces. With the prices that we have, our customers want to make sure that the products they buy can be visibly identified immediately — be it a logo, a leather patch, a white sole or an accentuated shoulder. Eighty percent of what we buy is signed, in all categories: ready-to-wear, shoes, bags. It is fashion and its recognizable codes that our customers are buying.
Impressions of the week: There is more creativity and international young talents showing in Paris than anywhere else. It makes this fashion week and the city look fresher and is a perfect addition to the mega shows from the big brands. Fashion weeks are very inspirational because you experience fashion everywhere — live in shows or outside the shows in the street, in hotels and restaurants. Also, we have really seen a very positive evolution of men’s fashion for the past few seasons becoming more gender-fluid and daring with new silhouettes. The Saint Laurent men’s fashion show and event in Berlin two weeks ago was a very good example of that.
Laura Darmon, buyer director and business development, ENG
Favorite collections: Loewe, Ludovic de saint Sernin, Kiko Kostadinov, Rick Owens, Ernest W. Baker, Courrèges.
Best show format: Dior with the models rising from the ground. The set design looks really good. I also liked the venue choice and vibe for Ludovic de Saint Sernin, it was really summer and elevated like the brand always does.
Top trends: Sequins, large shoulder, silver.
Investment pieces: I would say mostly strong and light pieces for the region we’re buying for [Shanghai], but in terms of category, everything.
Budgets up or down: Up — we have new locations on the way.
New talent: Burc Akyol, an amazing collection.
Impressions of the week: An abundance of expressive freedom, amplified volumes, and alluring silhouettes — this liberation within menswear is truly captivating, and I absolutely adore it.
Victoria Dartigues, merchandising director fashion and accessories, Samaritaine Paris Pont-Neuf
Favorite collections: Louis Vuitton, Dior, Dries Van Noten, Lemaire, Wales Bonner.
Best show format: Louis Vuitton x Pharrell Williams, epic!
Top trends: An elegant casual wardrobe based on relaxed chic look and loose blazer. Tailoring is present on every catwalk with culotte or palazzo pants and an elongated elegant jacket. The denim is very present, even as a total look. Two color trends: one based on pastels like baby blue, baby pink and peach; by contrast, there’s another based on autumnal hues with tones of brown and sand. Transparency and sheer fabric like chiffon, organza, raffia.
Investment pieces: Cargo short and skorts, a relaxed jacket, moccasins. The new Speedy bag that Pharrell Williams reinterpreted with spiced up colors for Louis Vuitton.
Budgets up or down: We are feeling positive about the year ahead.
New talent: Very good vibes at the Ouest Paris presentation celebrating bodies and movement while emphasizing transparency and workwear. We also loved Songzio and Heliot Emil.
Impressions of the week: The opening of fashion week with Vuitton and its impressive performance show was the “It” moment of this edition. It was a hyperactive Paris Men’s Fashion Week with luxury houses and big shows but also many contemporary collections and talented young designers showing solid collection with almost an absence of logos and mix of functional, but aesthetic looks.
Jian DeLeon, men’s fashion director, Nordstrom
Favorite collections: Undercover, Nicholas Daley, 4SDesigns, Jacquemus, Dior.
Best show format: The hidden elevator platforms at Dior were an innovative touch, adding spectacle that didn’t overshadow one of Kim Jones’ most impressive collections for the house.
Top trends: Nautical inspiration was prevalent everywhere on and off the runway.
Investment pieces: Undercover presented a couture-like take on the biker jacket, and the tweed Buffalo loafers from Dior similarly add an element of savoir-faire to a highly versatile shoe.
New talent: CFDA nominees 4SDesigns and J Keefer collection were among my favorites, and emerging Australian brand Song for the Mute is doing impressive things with textiles. Their Adidas collaboration is certain to be a sleeper hit.
Impressions of the week: Paris Fashion Week was all about balancing spectacle with substance. On the one hand, you had some of the most-anticipated shows taking center stage as pop cultural events. At the same time, independent designers continue to prove that a dedication to craft, steady world-building, and engrossing storytelling in a collection are still a proven path to stand out in a crowded market.
Alice Feillard, menswear officer and buying director, Galeries Lafayette
Favorite collections: Loewe, Lemaire, Hed Mayner.
Best show format: It’s impossible not to mention Louis Vuitton, with Pharrell’s first mega-production show on Pont Neuf; Loewe’s beautiful set with sculptural fountains; Meta Campania Collective’s first presentation with a poetic performance in the street, and Aldo Maria Camilla’s elegant dancers.
Top trends: A clean and minimal silhouette in very refined fabrics. A non-logo season replaced by elevated essentials with a focus on product and quality. Soft tailoring everywhere with loose jackets, wide pleated pants and many shorts. Many beautiful shirts, from oversize poplin shirts to fluid blouses. The shirt is the new T-shirt.
A masculine sensuality, where the body is more exposed and assumed through gender-fluid pieces: skirts, short shorts, fluid tops, embroidered blouses and tweeds. A monochrome color palette with tonal, earthy shades, rather than prints, with touches of pastels — from yellow to light blue. The return to full black.
Investment pieces: A double-breasted jacket, an unlined thin jacket, an oversize poplin shirt, tailored Bermuda shorts, leather slippers.
Budgets up or down: Up.
New talent: Meta Campania Collective’s understated casual luxury in sophisticated fabrics. We keep investing in talented designers that we support: Botter, Hed Mayner, Marine Serre.
Impressions of the week: It is a strong fashion week with a creative and sophisticated proposal, but with a realistic approach, a very desirable men’s wardrobe. Paris Fashion Week is by far a step ahead, being both innovative and also commercial.
Laura Larbalestier, fashion director, Harvey Nichols Group Ltd.
Favorite collections: On and off the runway, and if you focus on product, it’s Dries Van Noten.
Best show format: Louis Vuitton for a grand debut.
Top trends: Looser silhouettes at Amiri and Dries Van Noten, and constructed silhouettes at Rick Owens and Loewe.
Investment pieces: Boat shoes, polos, wide-leg pants, crystals and sequins, pleated shorts.
Budgets up or down: It depends on the collection.
New talent: We’re focusing more on existing talent.
Impressions of the week: Menswear is having a really natural evolution, moving into a more expressive and elegant way of dressing.
Mei Lin, head of merchandising, XC273
Favorite collection: Kiko Kostadinov.
Best show format: Kiko Kostadinov. The expansion of his design DNA is very clever, combined with the use of color, always very innovative. Before going into the show venue, he also showed his archive piece in the from of a backstage display. It’s a fun way for us to witness the development of the brand.
Top trends: In Paris this season you can still feel the coexistence of various styles. We will add more quiet-style brands for the build-up of a daily closet.
Investment pieces: Statement trousers from Namesake.
Budgets up or down: Up.
New talent: Juntae Kim
Impressions of the week: Compared with last season, I feel that there were a lot more appointments, but due to a tight schedule, we focus on brands that we are buying, and we don’t have much time to discover new brands. The other thing that impressed me the most is that the weather was very hot and the working environment was a bit hostile for both brands and buyers.
Simon Longland, buying director – fashion, Harrods
Favorite collections: Loewe, a stunning collection from Jonathan Anderson. Maybe his best yet. Dries Van Noten never disappoints, but this season was an exceptionally strong collection showing the breadth of his skills. Kim Jones celebrated his fifth anniversary at Dior, exactly five years to the day from his first show. The collection was rich in detail and fabrication, and the silhouettes were both refined and modern. Always new and exciting, Kim Jones has an ability to find fresh ways to deliver a runway show that we have not seen before.
Best show format: Pharrell’s first collection at Louis Vuitton took a runway show to a whole new level. This really was a spectacle to behold. This was a show like no other.
Top trends: Jackets and shorts made a huge impact on the runways this season. We saw them in matching sets but also in contrasting colors and fabrics. Menswear has fully embraced coordinated dressing, with fully matching looks seen everywhere. Collections were largely devoid of logo and graphics, notably we saw a lot of looks featuring only one color or fabric worn head to toe, as well as a couture-level approach to cut and fabrication in shirts and T-shirts.
Investment pieces: I expect we will see a huge uptake in all the above trends, from matching shorts and jackets to embellished T-shirts, these will become the must-have items for the season. These trends were seen across very different aesthetics, meaning no matter what your personal brand tastes are, you can adapt this to work for any individual style.
Impressions of the week: Overall, this was a week of some exceptional collections, with many designers really at the top of their game and arguably some showing their very best men’s collections. These collections were a demonstration of the skill and ability of their houses and a true celebration of real fashion.
Federica Montelli, head of fashion, Rinascente
Favorite collections: Dior Homme, Loewe, Ami, Lemaire, Dries Van Noten, Givenchy, Homme Plissé Issey Miyake. One cannot not mention Louis Vuitton’s show-stopping first outing by Pharrell Williams.
Best show format: Kim Jones at Dior Homme had a clap-worthy moment when models surged from holes in the floor. The giant steel-colored box built at Les Invalides was the perfect canvas for the striking fluorescent colors, elevated tailoring and embellishments — all codes of Kim Jones’ tenure.
Top trends: Tailoring is confirmed at the base of the fashionable men’s wardrobe. Designers are interpreting it in an ever-fresh way, with slightly slimmer and elongated proportions that are more fluid. Colors ranged from the ever-present neutrals to beautiful earthy mid-tones, to navy blue, to a pop of fluorescent , as seen at Dior Homme.
There’s lots of denim, which we had predicted being a key focus of the season, ranging from bleached to preciously embellished pieces — i.e., at Loewe. We have finally moved away from gorpcore and seeing more of a preppy and streetwear mix, paired once again with tailoring. In fact, the tie is a must-have item that is becoming a streetwear favorite.
Proportions in pants were a big focus for designers, ranging from the tailored shorts — a trend carrying over from Milan fashion week — to the ever-present wide-leg and low-waist denim, while we also saw wide pleated pants — such as at Dior — or high-waist pants. Loewe, which showed the latter, always pushes the boundaries of shapes, and I am sure we will see many high-waisted pants in the seasons to come. Last but not least, the shimmer and the sheer were ever-present, still conveying a feminine touch, which is now a given in fluid men’s fashion.
Investment pieces: A tailored suit in gray, blue or warm sand, by Dior or Dries Van Noten. An oversize bag from Loewe, which counts as a “couple’s” investment — a “she-and-he” piece. Both a seasonal novelty and an investment piece is Louis Vuitton’s Speedy giant trunk. The new color interpretations make it once again fashionable, and the big bag’s proportions make it a must for the season to come.
New talent: I feel that the emerging designer scene has been a bit more silent this season, reflecting the difficulties that independent creators are having in a polarized market. I will be waiting for women’s fashion week for a few more novelties coming up.
Impressions of the week: Louis Vuitton by Pharrell opened fashion week and really set the tone, which was “showtime.” The overall theme was entertainment, also with the help of Parisian landmarks. The strong presence of shimmering pieces on the runway and the amount of parties happening in town did confirm this was the mood. There were also many temporary stores popping up, with limited-edition collaborations from magazines and creators, confirming that the energy in town is strong and fashion is employing entertainment more than product content to drive sales.
Bosse Myhr, director of menswear and womenswear, Selfridges
Favorite collections: Louis Vuitton by Pharrell (skateboard P) was our favorite. It was a collection that had it all — shoes, jackets, coats, suits, bags — everything was just super. We also liked Rick Owens’ show, and Jonathan Anderson at Loewe.
Best show format: It was hard to fault Louis Vuitton, transforming the Pont Neuf into the Louis Vuitton front room. The show that had it all,with the choir from Pharrell’s hometown performing and the after party with a Jay-Z and Pharrell performance.
Top trends: We still saw a lot of quiet luxury but streetwear and avant garde influences made the runways more diverse.
Investment pieces: Large, oversize trousers were the must-haves. Rick Owens and Junya Watanbe explored jeans in all their variations. A masterclass in fashion design for me.
Budgets up or down: We are looking positively into the new season.
New talent: We picked up Diomene, a collection by Damir Doma. The sensibility he created in his collection was reminiscent of the latest trends and was made in earthy colors and shapes that feel relevant today.
Impressions of the week: Overall, it felt like Paris Men’s Fashion Week was back, more creative and powerful. The trends were not single-minded, but multifaceted: streetwear, tailoring, quiet luxury. They didn’t merge but each established itself as its own trend. It was loud, colorful, new, exciting and arguably the center of the universe for men’s fashion in June.
Franck Nauerz, director of menswear, Le Bon Marché
Favorite collections: Dior, Louis Vuitton, Dries Van Noten.
Best show format: I loved the scenography of the Loewe show with Lynda Benglis’ giant water fountains. But the best was Dior, where we had an impressive show in which the models appeared from the floor. The music and the rhythm of the show were captivating. I particularly liked the soft-tailoring silhouettes and the touches of fluorescent colors like yellow.
The Louis Vuitton show marked the arrival of new artistic director Pharrell Williams. It was a true spectacle that fused decor and music, offering a clever combination of the essence of the house and the designer’s creativity. Pharrell breathed new energy into the brand’s iconic checkerboard motif, subtly transforming it into a military camouflage pattern, adding a touch of urban style.
Top trends: The men’s shows at this year’s Paris Fashion Week showcased dominant trends characterized by elegant — yet relaxed — silhouettes that embody the concept of ‘quiet luxury.’ This trend manifested itself in a combination of tailoring pieces with pleated shorts, embellished with subtle pastel colors, such as sage or purple accents.
Investment pieces: A greater emphasis on soft tailoring. A popular combination consists of loose-fitting, flowing pants paired with a slightly longer double-breasted jacket. Polo-inspired blouses are very popular. They offer a subtle blend between a classic shirt and a casual polo, making them versatile and suitable for different occasions. Seersucker fabric, with its characteristic stripes and light texture, is particularly popular for blouses, bringing a touch of summer sophistication to outfits. Also, short-sleeved shirts with embroideries/craftsmanship.
New talent: Courrèges’ new spring 2024 collection pleasantly surprised us, once again pushing the boundaries of fashion. The garments stand out for their clean lines and bold details, such as slits, harnesses and original cuts, offering a modern, sophisticated aesthetic.
Commas brand. Its collections are designed with high-quality fabrics from Europe and Japan, offering clean, classic silhouettes paired with original artwork. Cmmn Swdn brand offers a modern wardrobe with romantic accents. The men’s selection features shirts in light, sheer voiles. Song for the Mute, which is at the cutting edge of modern design, following in the footsteps of the great houses that play with materials and shapes. Product design is based on the exploration of fabrics, stitching and detailed textures.
Impressions of the week: It was a busy week with many presentations and events. I was impressed by the buzz and excitement surrounding fashion week in Paris. The shows were particularly surprising and innovative, with designers offering strong, elegant silhouettes. What particularly struck me was the return of more formal, elegant fashion. The outfits presented were refined and polished. This shows a desire to return to a more formal aesthetic, where elegance is the order of the day. It’s exciting to see this evolution.
Bruce Pask, senior men’s fashion director, Bergdorf Goodman and Neiman Marcus
Favorite collections: Dior, Dries Van Noten, Amiri.
Best show format: Louis Vuitton. After a mood-calming evening boat ride up the Seine, we disembarked to see Paris’ beloved Pont Neuf covered in outsized gold Damier checkerboard sparkling in the sunset, accordion music playing, setting an epic scene for a celebrated American in Paris. It was all truly spectacular and a thrilling beginning to the next chapter of Louis Vuitton.
Dior’s mass model ascension from below the tiled runway was as stunning to see as it was surprising, and a fantastic way to highlight one of Kim Jones’ best collections to date.
A very honorable mention to Homme Plissée by Issey Miyake for giving a theatrical insight into the craft and technique involved in the creation of the brand’s distinctively pleated garments by sharing a bit of the process on the runway, rolling out a creased “carpet” embedded with garments that were cut out, released and put on models. It was a fascinating way to present a very beautiful, colorful collection filled with great, wearable items.
Top trends: The couture techniques, craft, and artistry that have informed womenswear here in Paris for decades have had a very welcome presence in many men’s collections here, showcasing a real elevation of materials and execution. There continues to be an overarching focus on proportion play and exaggerated shapes, with fuller cut pants and shorts, high waists, extended shoulders on tailoring and outerwear, and elongated sleeves. The slouchy jacket and full pants have been ubiquitous. Summer “tweeds” in varied colorful and textural fabrications have been a nice surprise and novelty. A palette of chalky pastels has given a pleasing, refreshing look to collections. Leather strapped sandals, especially when worn with flowing tailoring, looked great.
Investment pieces: A Dior Cannage tweed twin set, jacket or suit — all were terrific. A Louis Vuitton “Dami-flage” carry-on, backpack, or duffle.
Impressions of the week: Paris truly has been the city of spectacle with historic houses presenting astonishing, epically scaled productions and truly wonderful, masterfully designed and merchandised collections that are sure to appeal to our luxury customers. There is always a bounty of creativity here and we have seen some very inventive collections and an overall elevation of the menswear; a chic, dressed-up elegance. I am excited by the boldness, fluidity, and inventive fashion we have seen here in Paris.
Damien Paul, head of menswear, Matchesfashion
Favorite collections: Dries Van Noten.
Best show format: Loewe and the Lynda Benglis fountains.
Top trends: A new sexy. Color. Shape and form. Reinvented elegance. Sparkle.
Investment pieces: Sophisticated separates. From fluid, semi sheer shirting perfect for evening to chic blazers and neat tailored trousers. Investing in wardrobe separates that can be worn in many ways is the smartest way to invest this season.
New talent: Amsterdam-based Róhe.
Impressions of the week: A new sexiness came through in many collections. From high waists and strong trousers to sheer fabrics and elegant tailoring. Texture came through in raw edges, sequins, and voile. Tailoring was sometimes sculptural and at other times louche.
Ida Petersson, buying director, Browns
Favorite collections: Dior, Amiri, Rick Owens, Dries Van Noten, and, of course, not forgetting Pharrell’s debut at Louis Vuitton.
Best show format: Dior’s fifth-year anniversary show — an unforgettable show within the grounds of the École Militaire.
Top trends: The Gentleman is back — suiting was everywhere. It’s exciting to see the evolution of quiet luxury, which is very much still dominating the runway, this time infused with sportswear and sleek detailing.
Investment pieces: Dior — for the ultimate summer suiting — and Loewe for the most amazing utilitarian tailoring in khaki.
Budgets up or down: Our budgets are level as we remain cautious in the current climate.
New talent: We’re still in the process of finalizing our orders, so watch this space.
Impressions of the week: What a week — Paris did not disappoint. From Wales Bonner to Dior, the energy was amazing, and it was great to see everyone out and about enjoying the shows.
Luke Raymond, senior menswear lead, Farfetch
Favorite collections: Dries Van Noten, Auralee, The Row.
Best show format: Can’t ignore the Louis Vuitton extravaganza, the epitome of ‘fashion as entertainment’, but for me, Amiri’s much needed spritz time bar set-up at Jardin des Plantes and Rick Owens’ uncompromising ricochet of fireworks were the standouts of the week.
Top trends: Bubbling in Milan and confirmed in Paris, the shorts suit has cemented its status as the look of the season. Almost every collection featured a version of it in the mix. Pastel tones have evolved into a more acidic, sherbet zone, seen across most categories and executed in easy lightweight handles. Loose, wide silhouettes across tailoring and predominantly trousers and shorts highlight a streetwear influence that has evolved into a more grown-up space. Already seen in Berlin at Saint Laurent and in Milan with Prada, the strong shoulder has emerged as the season’s more directional proposal. It’s definitely more of a micro-trend, but it will be interesting to see how the high-waisted lines proposed by Rick Owens and Jonathan Anderson at Loewe translate post-market.
Investment pieces: The cream, 1.5 breasted suit as worn by Jonas Gloer at Wales Bonner. Lemaire’s leather moto jacket, cropped knits at Loewe. Outerwear and tailoring at Dries Van Noten. Amiri’s polo shirts, Bermuda shorts and double pleat trousers. The Row’s perfect Oxford shirt and CDGHP’s trompe l’oeil blazer.
Budgets up or down: A great season that hit a balance between experimentation and commerciality, which should only be a good thing.
New talent: Winnie, helmed by Idris Balogun. LVMH Prize nominee Burc Akyol and Connor McKnight. All offering nuanced, idiosyncratic takes on menswear staples.
Impressions of the week: It was an optimistic tipping point in menswear where the future of the industry starts to emerge with greater clarity. Honest proposals of what to wear that acknowledged the true history of menswear, taking in the classics but also the streetwear era to land on a point that isn’t either/or but a fusion of the two that feels truly representative of how men are and will dress.
Joseph Tang, fashion director, Holt Renfrew
Favorite collections: Louis Vuitton, Dior, Dries Van Noten, Amiri.
Best show format: Designers leveraged Paris as the backdrop with bridges, military buildings, and picturesque outdoor spaces to present the collections this season. Stand out presentation formats included the bridge set ups by Louis Vuitton and Kenzo, the art installations from Loewe and The Row, and the beautiful parade of models at the Lemaire show.
Top trends: Tailoring takes a more dressed down approach with a focus on impeccably crafted separates, done in fluid and relaxed silhouettes. Wales Bonner, The Row, Lemaire, and Dries Van Noten all are redefining traditional codes of men’s tailoring and updating for today’s modern gentleman. Technical outerwear and sports-inspired motifs continue to be a strong trend, with collaborations fueling this demand. No one does it better than Junya Watanabe. Traditional codes of masculinity evolve into more gender fluid designs with sheer fabrications, lace insets, and floral designs being blended into the more classic tailored silhouettes. There is a new fashion remix here in Paris.
Investment pieces: Louis Vuitton’s thick-soled Mary Jane; Dries Van Noten sequin shorts; Amiri bouclé jacket; Dior embroidered tweed jacket; Junya Watanabe New Balance; Wales Bonner Adidas collaboration; Sacai Carhartt.
Impressions of the week: This Paris Men’s Fashion Week was a sensational intersection of design, cultural arts, and the electrifying fashion community. We are in a very exciting moment in the world of men’s design at the time with a more expressive approach to elegance and masculinity.
Riccardo Tortato, head of buying department, Tsum Moscow
Favorite collection: Amiri.
Best show format: Rick Owens. As usual he staged a theatrical show where the contrast between the all black of the clothes and the colors of the fireworks in front of the Eiffel Tower will remain imprinted in our minds. Even the rain stopped at the start of the show.
Top trends: Just as it had begun to be seen in Milan, the blazer is certainly the strong garment for next summer. A blazer paired with comfortable trousers or shorts.
Investment pieces: Leather garments by Amiri. An embroidered jacket by Dior.
Impressions of the week: This was surely the fashion week characterized by Louis Vuitton with its maxi show. A show like this and with this investment cannot be compared to the others. What is evident in many shows is an incredible attention to the product and to true creativity. The message of a more formal man started at Pitti in Milan arrives in Paris with more fashionable and more fluid codes. If this was certainly the year that decreed the end of street style, it was also the season in which sneakers disappeared on many catwalks. Shoes returned as a product more suited to the elegant look. Paris has pushed for transparencies, embroideries that perhaps won’t be so easily inserted into the male wardrobe. The blazer with shorts combination reminds me a lot of the proposals many years ago by another famous Frenchman, Jean Paul Gaultier, and could instead become a new modern look for all men.
Eric Young, founder, Le Monde de SHC
Favorite collections: Magliano, B+ Umit Benan, Louis Vuitton
Best show format: This time it has to be Louis Vuitton, and I had the pleasure of seeing what a super brand can do at the moment. The whole thing was mind blowing.
Top trends: Genderless knit tops and suits that are neither overly feminine nor masculine; classic low-key luxury style, the so-called “old money style” is back in trend. Super-long coats continue to be popular. Although not suitable for everyone, that does not prevent it continue to be a fashionable symbol.
Investment pieces: Handcrafted decorative details can make a piece look rich in texture as well as high class. It is a category worth investing in this season.
Budgets up or down: Overall it is the same as previous seasons, but there will be some flexibility in budget preparation.
Impressions of the week: The whole men’s fashion week packed not as many new ideas as I anticipated. It’s probably related to the global economic environment at the moment.
— With contributions from Samantha Conti, Joelle Diderich, Lily Templeton, Jennifer Weil, Alex Wynne and Tianwei Zhang
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