People on TikTok are claiming SPF is cancerous – we need to shut that rumour down
Holding a white and yellow bottle up the camera, the influencer shakes it disparagingly before tossing it over his shoulder. “Why sunscreen is bad for you,” he begins, before launching into an ‘explanation’ about how popular SPF brands “contain harmful chemicals that are proven to cause cancer” and urging his followers to ditch them. Plenty of comments below agree, sharing how they too have discovered the ‘harms’ of sunscreen and are instead switching to the likes of coconut oil as a ‘natural alternative’, specialised diets or have ‘built up a tolerance’ to the sun by gradually exposing their skin.
That specific TikTok clip has been viewed over 368,000 times – but it’s far from the only one contributing to a worrying ‘anti-sunscreen movement’ that’s gaining traction. In fact, the hashtag #AntiSunscreen has pulled in more than 5.3 million views, while #NoSunscreen has had 12 million. Conversely, Google searches such as 'does sunscreen cause cancer?' have leapt up by more than 160% in the last month. Notable names, such as Kristin Cavallari, have also publicly started speaking out about ditching SPF.
But why has all this confusion come about, especially given that for the last few years many of us have gone the exact opposite route and started wearing SPF every day (if only from an anti-ageing perspective)? And what’s the real truth – if cases of melanoma and other skin cancers are on the up, could sun cream really be doing more harm than good?
Given we’re living in the age of conspiracy theories (see: armchair detectives weighing in on Kate Middleton’s ‘disappearance’ and all of the anti-vaxxer content that ran wild during the pandemic), perhaps we should’ve seen the rise in SPF conspiracies coming from a mile away. Dr Sophie Shotter, a respected doctor and ambassador for the Melanoma Fund agrees, saying she believes the anti-sunscreen movement also perfectly ties in with our current obsession with ridding ourselves of ‘toxins’ (despite many of us not actually understanding what a toxin is) and ‘clean beauty’. Add in the spread of propaganda about the very real rise of skin cancer cases being attributed to sunscreen and the deeper, more disturbing element of people trusting what they hear in an unverified TikTok video over credible sources, and we’re in the middle of a misinformation crisis.
“I’ve been horrified to see that anyone with an audience or platform would discourage the use of sunscreen,” the doctor shares. “The rise in misinformation can be attributed to several factors, but for me the key one is influencers and certain ‘clean beauty’ advocates perpetuating fears about chemical sunscreens specifically. This trend has been exacerbated by misunderstandings of scientific studies, and the amplification of these fears on social media platforms.”
Beth Vincent, health information manager at Cancer Research UK, agrees that the confusion is concerning – and says the real reason skin cancer rates are increasing is due to an ageing population, overexposure to ultraviolet radiation, and package holiday deals that boomed in the 70s (pre-SPF awareness). “Our analysis shows a projected 20,800 cases of melanoma (an aggressive form of skin cancer) in the UK this year – a record high. Around 17,000 of these cases are caused by exposure to too much ultraviolet (UV) radiation, driving home the importance of sun safety.”
Vincent also adds that “in addition to overexposure to UV, the rise is partly due to a growing and ageing population, as well as increased awareness of skin cancer symptoms leading to more people visiting their doctor and receiving a diagnosis.” Add in our increasing ability to travel to sunnier climes too, and there’s your answer – which doesn’t include anything relating to ingredients found in SPF.
In her clinics, Dr Shotter says she’s hearing concerns from patients who are wondering whether they ought to ditch SPF after watching videos breaking down studies which ‘prove’ sunscreen is putting us all at risk and some influencers instead encourage the use of coconut or carrot oils as an ‘alternative’. While it might sound woo-woo, there really was a reported incident in the US last year of some sunscreens – mostly gels or sprays – being contaminated by benzene (note: not the same as being intentionally produced with), a potential carcinogen linked to some forms of blood cancer.
Benzene, however, is also something we’re regularly exposed to via car exhaust pipes, burning candles, petrol stations and people smoking tobacco, and it’s a building block in many chemicals and drugs, like aspirin. The other supposed ‘bad’ ingredients that crop up over and over in anti-sunscreen posts? Oxybenzone and octinoxate (organic chemicals that absorb the sun’s rays).
“The scientific consensus is that oxybenzone and octinoxate ingredients are safe when used as directed,” Dr Shotter details, also pointing out that many of the studies that anti-SPFers flash up on screen have only been conducted on mice rather than humans. “The benefits of protecting the skin from harmful UV radiation far outweigh any potential risks posed by these chemicals and in the UK, sunscreens are rigorously regulated by the Medicines and Healthcare products Regulatory Agency (MHRA). These products must meet stringent safety and efficacy standards before they are approved for consumer use.”
But still, if something can mess a mouse up… is it an ingredient we really want to slather ourselves in?
Is sunscreen full of nasty chemicals?
There’s mass confusion online about what’s toxic and what isn’t, but in terms of how suncreams actually work, Professor Brian Diffey of the British Association of Dermatologists (BAD), a photobiologist who specialises in the impact of UV radiation on the skin, says, “Sunscreens include a variety of ingredients that protect your skin from UV rays, which fall into two categories – organic or inorganic filters”.
Organic filters absorb harmful UV radiation and convert it harmlessly to infrared, he explains, and for this reason “these are sometimes known as ‘absorbers’, or ‘chemical’ sunscreens. Inorganic filters contain titanium dioxide or zinc oxide, which reflects UV radiation away from the skin, and both types of sunscreens offer an additional layer of protection against the damaging UVB and UVA rays from the sun”. So chemical = not automatically a bad thing.
As for other negative impacts besides cancers, Dr Shotter highlights misinformation that claims SPF can change your hormones. “There are some laboratory-based studies in mice which suggest some chemical UV filters, like oxybenzone, could be endocrine disruptors, meaning they interfere with our natural hormone function,” she says, noting it’s because some sunscreen ingredients are systemically absorbed through the skin. “We do have to consider the potential wider impacts of those ingredients on our bodies, but it’s important to state that all studies to date are very small, and there are no human studies that back up these concerns.
“Oxybenzone and octinoxate are commonly used in sunscreens — have been for decades – and no untoward consequences in humans have come to light. Until there is clear evidence on possible adverse effects of UV filters absorbed into our bodies, or alternatives that don’t contain ingredients associated with health risks, the consensus among experts is that we still need to protect ourselves [with SPF] whenever we’re exposed to strong sunlight.”
However, given the ‘SPF all day every day!’ gong that so many of us have been banging in recent years, it’s interesting to learn that while still encouraging us all to wear sunscreen in powerful sunshine, many experts don’t prioritise it as the ‘first line of defence’. Instead, they say we ought to put our primary focus on more direct ways of avoiding harmful UV rays, such as covering up exposed body parts with clothing, seeking shade and staying out of the sun between 10AM and 2PM (or between 11AM and 3PM, depending on who you ask and which country you’re in).
While many dermatologists recommend a daily SPF to delay signs of ageing, from a cancer risk angle, explains Professor Diffey, “the habit of wearing sunscreen every day is not necessary in the UK from the sun protection perspective.” He continues: “the UV Index, which is the measure of how strong the sun’s UV rays are, doesn’t get high enough in the winter months to merit all-year-round sunscreen.”
Professor Diffey adds that “sun protection is needed for people with lighter skin tones when the UV Index is 3 or above, which typically occurs between April and October. People with darker skin tones usually don’t need to wear sun protection in the UK.” For clarity on that latter point, the Melanoma Fund adds that people with dark brown skin are about eight times less sensitive than people with white skin in terms of sunburn or damage to skin cells, while in comparison people with brown skin are about four times less sensitive than those with white skin. It also said that the maximum UV index seen in Britain rarely exceeds a level where Black or brown people are likely to be susceptible to sunburn – but that holidays abroad may be a different story.
“It’s also imperative to note that when it comes to skin conditions like photosensitivity, vitiligo or lupus, or if people have a high risk of skin cancer, whether it’s due to immunosuppressive treatments or because they’re genetically pre-disposed to it, then sun protection is important regardless of someone’s skin tone,” Diffey stresses.
On the whole, he recommends a three-pronged approach to staying safe. “Make use of shade, wear protective clothing, and use sunscreen as a final line of defence [if you can’t avoid harsh sunlight]”, he says. So basically, stay out of the sun when it’s real spicy and keep covered, and if you can’t do that, sunscreen is a must.
As for the type of SPF we should seek out, Dr Shotter says that 30+ and a four-star rating is the minimum we ought to plump for (and a product with broad spectrum coverage, against both UVA and UVB), and to remember that reapplications may be needed and that products have an expiry date. As for how frequently, guidance from the BAD says add another layer after every two hours or if you’ve taken part in an activity where it could be washed off, like swimming or sweaty exercise.
It seems as with anything health-related, it’s vital to do your research (find a sunscreen that contains ingredients you feel comfortable applying to your skin) and remember that SPF is still very much a proven shield against skin cancers. Despite what your TikTok FYP may claim.
The Melanoma Fund has partnered with Kopparberg to launch a new SPF available in selected pubs and to remind us all of the importance of staying both sun and alcohol-safe this summer. Learn more here.
Follow Jennifer on Instagram
You Might Also Like
