One of Italy’s Oldest Mountain Towns Is the Perfect Winter Getaway — With Skiing, Celeb-loved Spa Resorts, and Christmas Markets

I didn’t expect a three-day trip to northeastern Italy to result in a full-blown infatuation with sauna culture, pine trees, and one of the oldest towns in the South Tyrol region. For that, I credit Forestis, a mountainside spa hotel that sits nearly 6,000 feet above sea level — directly facing the craggy peaks of the Dolomites — just a short, albeit winding, drive from Brixen.

Known as Brixen or Bressanone (the respective German and Italian names), the mountain town was mentioned in records dating all the way back to 901. The storied history is just one of a plethora of reasons to experience the destination, though. “In addition to the wonderful art and cultural sites and places that bear witness to Brixen's long history, there are forests and the local mountain, the Plose, in the immediate vicinity,” says Martina Rabensteiner, local historian and tour guide.

Even with an extensive number of things to do in Brixen — including hiking trails, art museums, and vineyards — it’s also a place that prioritizes stillness. Be sure to bake time into your schedule for slow mornings and leisurely sauna sessions (a prominent aspect of life in South Tyrol).

Whether you’re venturing to Brixen to recharge among the trees, ski some of the best runs in the Dolomites, or savor the sausages and strudels at the traditional Christmas market, here’s how to plan the perfect trip.

Best Hotels and Resorts

Forestis

Everything about Forestis is purposeful and narrative-driven. The stone pine juice you receive at check-in purportedly aids in relaxation. The guest suites — located in the main historic building and three neighboring wooden towers — all have views of the soaring mountains in the distance. The over 20,000-square-foot, two-floor spa is outfitted with a range of steam rooms, saunas, and cold plunges, and all the treatments and services take inspiration from the Celts who settled the area. While Forestis is frequented by big names (Justin and Hailey Bieber are notable past guests), this is the type of hotel where privacy and quiet come first — especially if you book the newest addition, the Forestis Villa. The standalone building opened for bookings in early December 2024, and it has its own theater room, spa, and indoor-outdoor pool.

Odles Lodge

The sibling hotel of Forestis, Odles Lodge is a more affordable, but equally as special, mountain property. Only four chalets in total, all of which are made of spruce and stone pine and equipped with their own kitchens, the lodge is about a mile north of Forestis and just a few miles from the Plose ski area. Breakfast is delivered to your door every morning, so you can start each day with a cup of coffee, freshly baked pastries, and the ever-changing views of the Dolomites.

Fink

Recommend by Rabensteiner, Fink is a more centrally located hotel just steps from the Brixen Cathedral. Though the inn’s building has more than six centuries of history and has been family-run for over 125 years, current owners Petra and Florian Fink renovated and reopened it as Fink in August 2023. Along with its nine elegant suites — accented by restored stone walls, wooden doors, and ceiling frescoes — the hotel has a restaurant and spa area, complete with an herbal steam bath, a wood sauna, and plunge pools for guests to use at leisure.

Things to Do

Visit the Brixen Cathedral and the Cloister of Brixen.

You’ll want to reserve at least a full day to make your way through Brixen’s historic and culturally significant sites. The Cathedral of Brixen (Duomo di Bressanone) and the cloister — located in the same complex — should be the first stops on your list. It is here, says Rabensteiner, “you can see most of the past and the power of the former bishop’s city.” Though the cathedral’s history is traced to 980, the current Baroque structure was built in the mid-1700s.  “Both buildings are unique, especially the cloister with its wonderful frescoes,” she adds. Plus, notes Günther Kofler, the general manager of Forestis, “The visit is free and there are no queues.”

Spend an afternoon at a winery.

“Everyone should visit a local wine producer,” says Kofler. “The Isarco Valley, where Brixen is located, is particularly famous for white wine.” Nearby Novacella Abbey (Abbazia di Novacella) claims the title of one of the oldest active wineries in the world, with operations beginning in 1142. While there, you’ll want to stop by the wine shop. “It is a must after learning about their wine production,” Kofler adds.

Experience sauna culture.

Many Brixen hotels — including The Vista Hotel, Hotel Alpenhof, and Hotel Fischer — have their own saunas, but you can also head to Acquarena to use its indoor and outdoor Finnish saunas, herbal saunas, and steam baths. Bear in mind that a number of the saunas and spas in Brixen come with a “no textiles” rule, meaning you’ll need to leave your swimsuit behind.

Head to the slopes of Mount Plose.

Rabensteiner calls the Plose a “wonderful hiking and skiing area,” but, she says, it’s also about the “spectacular” views. Just under five miles from Brixen, the winter paradise features seven lifts and miles of pistes, hiking trails, and toboggan runs. There’s also a handful of lodges and mountain restaurants for mid-day meals and après-ski activities.

Admire the art and architecture of the Hofburg.

The Hofburg is the former residence of the bishops of Brixen, and Rabensteiner says it’s an “absolute must.” Points of interest include the Renaissance courtyard and the Diocesan Museum, which Rabensteiner explains “gives an insight into the past of Brixen. There is a collection of cribs, sacred art from different periods, cathedral treasures, etc,” she adds.

Related: 15 Charming Mountain Towns in Europe

Best Shopping

It’s safe to say you won’t leave Brixen empty-handed. Rabensteiner has a list of favorites, including Kerer for household goods and the Weger bookstore and print shop. “Then, obviously the Degust cheese shop by cheese affineur Hansi Baumgartner; it is a true gem for everyone who loves cheese,” says Kofler. (Note: The cheese shop is just down the road in Varna.) While shopping, keep an eye out for the lauben, the medieval arcades where craftsmen would historically sell their wares. “Nowadays it is home to beautiful shops and boutiques,” Kofler explains.

Best Restaurants

Alter Schlachthof

Rabensteiner describes Alter Schlachthof as a place “where young modern cuisine meets an interesting historical location.” With a focus on local ingredients, the menu includes freshly harvested fruit and vegetables as well as dry-aged meats.

Traubenwirt

At Traubenwirt, says Rabensteiner, you’ll get to try both northern and southern Italian cuisine — ”everything from traditional schlutzkrapfen to Italian pizza.” If pizza or semi-circle stuffed pasta doesn’t strike your fancy, there are also dishes like spanferkel (suckling pig) and rinderbacke (beef cheek).

Fink

Both Kofler and Rabensteiner sing high praises of the Fink restaurant. The menu is based on the concept of monastery cuisine — simple, natural preparation, with a preference for vegetables, herbs, and fruit. The seasonal menu changes on a daily basis, but you can expect entrees like pumpkin risotto and red cabbage dumplings.

Finsterwirt

For an “authentic culinary experience,” Kofler suggests Finsterwirt, a Brixen favorite since 1870. Like many restaurants in town, Finsterwirt leans on local ingredients and seasonal produce. It also boasts a cellar of over 400 Italian and international wines as well as a variety of dining areas — from its parlors and dining rooms to a quaint terrace.

Best Time to Visit

Though Rabensteiner calls Brixen a year-round destination, she says the best time to visit is either the fall or the winter, particularly over the holidays. During the autumn months, also known as harvest season, the mountain foliage puts on a stunning show of oranges and yellows, and festivals dot the calendar. For three days in October, the South Tyrolean Bread and Strudel Market hosts different baked goods stands throughout the Cathedral Square. Visitors can learn about local baking techniques and try different bread and pastry varieties – including schüttelbrot (a flatbread) and krapfen (a German doughnut).

A Tyrolean tradition, Törggelen is an experience and a celebration, running from the beginning of October to the end of November, that’s all about tasting new wine and local food — like roasted chestnuts, soups, dumplings, and sausages — at local farmhouses and cozy inns. One of the best ways to experience Törggelen is to hike along the Chestnut Trail through chestnut groves and by farms that participate in the tradition.

“In winter, Brixen is bathed in Christmas lights,” Rabensteiner says. In late November, the Brixen Christmas Market comes to town, bringing traditional wooden stalls and all manner of items produced or refined in the region. Sip on mulled wine; fill up on sausages, apple strudel, gingerbread, and pretzels; and shop for souvenirs like handmade soap, candles, and wooden ornaments. She also notes the annual light and music show in the courtyard of the Hofburg takes place at the same time; this year, the 20-minute-long show is titled “Colors 2 – The Journey Continues.” Both the Christmas market and light show go through early January, ushering in the ski season. Even if you don’t ski, says Rabensteiner, you can enjoy winter walks and sleigh rides in the area.

Related: 29 Most Beautiful Places in Italy

How to Get There

Bolzano Airport (BZO) is technically the closest airport to Brixen — it’s about 30 miles away — but flights are limited. If you’re traveling from outside Italy, you’ll have better luck searching for flights to and from Innsbruck Airport (INN), Verona Villafranca Airport (VRN), Munich Airport (MUC), or Milano Malpensa Airport (MXP). You’ll then either need to rent a car and drive the rest of the way to Brixen, or take the train to Bressanone/Brixen station; tickets can be purchased on Trainline or ItaliaRail. Yes, the final leg of your journey may be a bit lengthy, depending on your airport of choice, but the ride is accented by soaring mountain crags, centuries-old castles, and cliff-side vineyards.

How to Get Around

Brixen is highly walkable, especially if you’re sticking around the city center.  Of course, driving will grant you more freedom and flexibility to explore South Tyrol, but, according to Rabensteiner, your trip “can also be sustainable, as there are excellent train and bus connections.” Visitors can use the BrixenCard to travel for free on South Tyrol’s public transport network (both trains and buses), and it also grants free or discounted admission to dozens of museums and cultural attractions in the area. If your hotel or other accommodations are deemed a “partner establishment,” you’ll receive the card at check-in, and it's good through the day you checkout.

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