Northern Thai: Delicious ‘creamy’ tom yum by Thai superwoman worth the queue

To say that I love tom yum soup would be an understatement. It’s a different story now that the weather’s so hot, though. Few things can compel me to readily indulge in a piping hot bowl and sweat more than I already have in the sweltering heat. Well, Northern Thai did just that.

In particular, I had salivated over countless reels showcasing their unique speciality of creamy Northern Thai-style tom yum. I simply had to procure myself a bowl, pronto.

Northern Thai sits inconspicuously on the first floor of Berseh Food Centre in Jalan Besar. Headed by a plain yellow signboard, the no-frills stall could be easily overlooked if it hadn’t made its rounds through social media.

It has a simple menu of just 2 items: the famed ‘creamy’ N.T. Tom Yum (S$5) and regular Clear Tom Yum (S$5). You can add Noodles, Bee Hoon or Steamed Rice to your soup for an additional S$0.50.

At the reins of the stove is a lone aunty who hails from Thailand. Call her a superwoman if you will; she single-handedly cooks every bowl to order. Straightforward as the menu is, this is no easy feat. She’s so busy that cashiering is self-service.

Unbeknownst to many, this not-so-hidden gem has been nestled in Berseh for 8 years and in Singapore for nearly 2 decades. I chatted with the aunty about her stall’s recent fame, to which she divulged that she gets a little stressed out by the daily queues as much as she’s heartened by the support.

I couldn’t help but feel a twinge of guilt about how I was there to enjoy her food and write about it. But hey, how could I not share about good food?

What I tried at Northern Thai

Needless to say, I started with a bowl of N.T. Tom Yum with Noodles (S$5.50). A single word left my mouth the moment I received it: wow. Its presentation alone was a sight to behold — curly instant noodles immersed in a milky orange broth, adorned with a generous portion of fried fish and an array of other ingredients that peeked out. It was nothing short of a feast for my eyes and my appetite.

Of course, I went straight for a spoonful of that enticing broth. I’d describe its consistency as a nice balance between broth and gravy — thicker than that of traditional tom yum soups we’re accustomed to, yet runnier and lighter than zhup. It had a velvety texture that glided down my throat with much ease. Oh, just imagine how divine this would be on a chilly day…

Taste-wise, it offered a well-rounded profile of tangy and umami flavours, complemented by zesty notes of lemongrass and aromatic makrut lime leaves. There were also distinct undertones of coconut milk that lent it a creamy richness that wasn’t jelak in the least.

However, the broth leaned towards the milder side as a whole. For one, it bore only a muted hint of spice that was nowhere near the fiery kick I so love in tom yum. That aside, it could definitely do with a touch more acidity, perhaps from more lemongrass or a spritz of lime. Nonetheless, not a single drop was left in that bowl.

“Where have I tasted this before?” I wondered as I took my first slurp of noodles. They had a distinct springiness and thinness unlike that of regular instant noodles. And then it hit me; these were none other than the famed MAMA noodles from Thailand! Way to stay true to their roots.

The noodles held up well, each strand maintaining a satisfyingly firm bite even as they soaked up the rich flavours of the soup. Their wheaty undertones lent the tangy and creamy soup a certain depth that enriched its overall flavour. In my opinion, the noodles truly tied the already-delicious dish together.

The bowl was loaded with a portion of ingredients so generous that I could barely fathom how it set me back just S$5.50. No, really — it was chock full of fried and fresh fish slices alongside a multitude of other ingredients like tomato, tofu, prawn and onion slices.

Of all the components, I especially enjoyed the fried fish slices. Each hefty piece was lightly battered, offering a delightful crisp that rendered a nice contrast to the fresh, tender flesh within. I was too engrossed in devouring them to count, but there must’ve been at least 4 pieces in the bowl — score!

The fresh fish slices weren’t shabby either, imparting a subtle refreshing sweetness to each mouthful.

I figured it was only fair that I gave the Clear Tom Yum (S$5) a try and opted to pair it with Steamed White Rice (S$0.50). Based on appearances alone, the clear broth struck me as considerably ‘calmer’ than its creamy counterpart. The aunty offered to sprinkle in a spoonful of chilli flakes, to which I nodded enthusiastically.

A scoop and splash of the broth revealed it to be of a much soupier and runnier consistency.

To my dismay, it had a mellow flavour profile with present but muted notes of umami and acidity. This was admittedly perplexing, considering how I had expected that the absence of coconut milk would allow the broth’s ‘natural’ flavour to shine through and give the dish its characteristic tang and full-bodiedness.

The addition of chilli flakes also didn’t lend the soup as much of a kick as I would’ve liked.

Now, don’t get me wrong; I do assert that it’s an okay tom yum soup, but definitely one that paled in comparison to its creamy counterpart.

Despite the broth’s shortcomings, the plethora of ingredients within proved to be a redeeming factor. While I’ve already spoken enough about the enjoyable fried fish and fresh fish slices, it’s a good juncture to praise the addition of crispy battered bits, which added an eggy flavour and a fun crunch to the dish.

I also appreciated the freshness and crunchiness of the prawn, the silkiness of the tofu and the piquancy of the onion slices, all of which added depth to each spoonful of broth. The Clear Tom Yum is definitely best enjoyed in its entirety.

Final Thoughts

Where personal preferences are concerned, my only critique of Northern Thai lies with their base tom yum broth, which tended towards a mild flavour profile that didn’t quite suit my preference for stronger and punchier flavours. However, this is a minor issue that could easily be remedied with a touch more acidity and spice.

While I wouldn’t exaggerate and declare it the best tom yum in Singapore, I must concede that the N.T. Tom Yum was the star of the show. Creamy, velvety and loaded with ingredients, it’s truly a dish that you can’t find anywhere else. On that note, I’d say that it unquestionably lives up to the hype and is worth the queue.

Conversely, the Clear Tom Yum failed to impress me as much. Nonetheless, I’d recommend it to those with lighter palates. Besides, it does offer excellent value for money as with its creamy counterpart — a huge plus in the grand scheme of things.

Expected damage: S$5 – S$5.50 per pax

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