To the Next 60: CFDA Members Share Their Hopes for the Future
When Tom Ford revealed he would be stepping down as CFDA chairperson last May, it marked the end of a three-year term unlike any other in the council’s six decades.
“I could not have imagined the extraordinary circumstances that both the industry and the world would have to navigate — that a pandemic would shut the world down and change the course of our lives and of our businesses forever,” the designer wrote in his initial statement.
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Ford remains on in an advisory role through the summer (with Steven Kolb serving as interim chair), but the question of his successor still hangs in the balance. Although this next face for American fashion will be charged with steering it amid a rapidly changing landscape, transition in leadership tends to push fresh ideas to the fore.
Here, some of the designers — both established and emerging — who comprise today’s CFDA reflect on their past experiences, sound off on how they hope to get more mileage from their memberships, and share what they would like to see the newly elected chair accomplish going forward.
Abrima Erwiah, Studio One Eighty Nine
Year inducted: 2022 (Interim tier)
I am grateful to the CFDA for having an active part in helping our business grow. I think it would be interesting for the new chairperson to put a focus on innovation and the future of fashion through resources related to Web3 and the metaverse. I am really fascinated by the opportunity to create more democratic and inclusive design that is sustainable in a virtual space, pushing the bounds on how we can further integrate virtual and physical systems as designers and embrace the use of new technology such as wearables, NFTs, biomaterials and other innovations still on the horizon and translate them in our work.
Alejandra Alonso Rojas
Year inducted: 2019
I would like to see the incoming chairperson create a strong and cohesive community with both emerging and established American brands. We need dialogue between all members of the CFDA to share best practices within the industry — design, supply chain, sales, diversity, representation and sustainability. While we celebrate and award established designers owned by European luxury global conglomerates, we should also celebrate milestones and achievements by the next generation of American designers, with a focus on smaller brands. I think it’s important that the new chairperson makes that a priority and really cultivates mentorships and support for these individuals.
Autumn Adeigbo
Year inducted: 2022 (Interim tier)
I would love to see an open dialogue around access to capital as well as formal mentoring efforts in business, sourcing and creative spaces across the community. I hope that if Rolodexes were shared as well as business know-how, we could really support each other, especially in challenging times.
Bach Mai
Year inducted: 2022 (Interim tier)
As smaller brands, it’s quite difficult for us to develop sustainable practices, especially because sustainable packaging solutions require very high minimums. It would be amazing if the CFDA could invest in sustainable packaging solutions, which would then lower the cost for individual CFDA members. There are so many opportunities where we could streamline. I think so many young brands are interested, but we don’t have the buying power or the numbers or the resources to develop that on our own.
Batsheva Hay, Batsheva
Year inducted: 2019
What I loved about Mr. Ford also, aside from just being so damn handsome, was that he has an excitement about him, so I think that is important — to have someone who people are excited about. We’re in an industry that’s a total business, but at the same time, it’s at its best when it taps into creativity, ideas and also a feeling of mentorship. Designers need a lot of guidance, especially now because we’re caught between so many worlds. There are so many questions that I ended up bugging specific friends for, which is always a great way to share information, but the more hand holding we can get from the CFDA, the better.
Christian Juul Nielsen, Aknvas and Hervé Léger
Year inducted: 2022 (Interim tier)
The CFDA has been great at supporting new brands, including Aknvas, visually on platforms such as Runway360. I would hope the future chairperson would also be able to support designers from the inside and somehow advise us on business structure and buildup. Sorting out issues like taxes, warehouse management and digital marketing is not something you learn in fashion school, but certainly a huge part of running a fashion brand in America. It would also be great to have options of masterclasses of people who started up alone and made it, focusing on what to do and what not to do.
Donna Karan
Year inducted: 1974
The CFDA’s philanthropic initiatives have positively impacted society and the world in a significant way and that has always been important to me. We have collaborated on many philanthropic initiatives together such as Seventh on Sale for HIV and AIDS, Kids for Kids and Super Saturday for ovarian cancer. I remember when the CFDA with Ralph Lauren organized all the designers, models and photographers to go to Washington, D.C., for the Nina Hyde Center for Breast Cancer Research campaign. The CFDA, through its collective influence, has changed lives, supported and brought awarenesses to causes that extend beyond the fashion industry.
Emily Adams Bode, Bode
Year inducted: 2019
I think what is quite valuable is bringing visibility to young designers. That was what was really helpful to me through the different people who have headed up the CFDA. The first person to really champion Bode and bring us into the spotlight was [director of fashion week initiatives] Joseph Maglieri who was able to fight on our behalf and introduce us to funding opportunities for our first show. I don’t know if our success would have happened without that initial support when the business was so nascent. I launched in July [of 2016] and then by February, I had a show that was on the fashion week schedule.
Francisco Costa, Costa Brazil
Year inducted: 2004
The new chairperson should have a vision for what creative innovation looks like in an American sense, which means inclusivity and sustainability at the forefront. We should also be looking at how we can improve our supply chain processes with a focus on science and technology, working toward our common goal of reducing our carbon footprint as an industry. We could be looking at thought-leading companies like Patagonia to bring new leadership to the CFDA.
Henry Zankov, Zankov
Year inducted: 2022 (Interim tier)
I think the CFDA is such a brilliant organization and we are lucky as designers and creatives to have such an important institution here in the States. I think it would be brilliant that the new incoming chairperson brings more focus on truly sustainable practices and connecting the designers with more global and domestic resources and suppliers. I also feel having more access to mentorships, financial support and interesting platforms for collaborations with local designers and artists would create a more intimate dialogue within the fashion community.
Marina Moscone
Year Inducted: 2021
With the CFDA’s incredible network and connections, we could benefit from any initiatives that showcase our brand with international retailers, similar to “Americans in Paris,” but perhaps extended to other European or Asian countries. Any marketing and communications efforts through the CFDA’s channels that highlight a designer’s techniques and processes could help tell a larger story about what makes our country’s brands uniquely and distinctively American.
Michael Kors
Year inducted: 1985
As always, I think the mission of the CFDA is to promote American design globally. The mix and mosaic of CFDA members, with businesses of different scales and different perspectives, is one of the things that makes American fashion more relevant globally than ever before. Shining a spotlight on the talents of its members is to me the greatest thing the organization and the chairperson can do on a consistent basis.
Monique Lhuillier
Year inducted: 2003
When I was starting my career and showing during NYFW, I felt validated with a sense of pride showing alongside iconic designers like Donna Karen, Ralph Lauren and Calvin Klein. The CFDA recognizes the pivotal role emerging designers have in fashion, culture and commerce and its mission is to strengthen the impact of American fashion. I would love to see the CFDA focus on bridging that to a global scale. Happy 60th anniversary!
Prabal Gurung
Year inducted: 2011
Designers should take the opportunity to connect, have a voice and take a stance on how you want to be heard and what you want your brand to convey. The CFDA is an excellent support system to uplift and amplify its members and their causes. When there was the earthquake in Nepal, without hesitation, the CFDA was one of the first organizations to support my fundraising initiative and donate to relief efforts.
Ralph Rucci
Year inducted: 2003
We have such a history [in America] of greatness. Think of it, from Claire McCardell to Halston to Mr. Blass to Mr. Beene — my god, we have to pay homage to our past leaders a great deal and we have to make sure that there’s a certain curriculum for all of the new young people. There should not be Zooms. There should be participation. Designers and persona of our industry should give talks because everybody wants to learn more. We have such a rich history — I think we have to borrow from it and feed from it.
Sami Miró, Sami Miró Vintage
Year inducted: 2022 (Interim tier)
It would be really wonderful if I had a dedicated mentor I can reach out to to ask more specific questions because there are so many people at our disposal within the CFDA who have a tremendous amount of experience who could mentor me, but I’m not really sure who that right person is. It would be interesting to almost have a session of interviews to see who is your match and who are you really on the same page with and who can see the potential of your business.
Stacey Bendet, Alice + Olivia
Year inducted: 2011
The CFDA should be encouraging global exposure for American designers, providing more opportunities for growth through collaborations with retailers internationally. Additionally, they should be creating more robust programs and pledges not only to encourage sustainability, but to define what the next generation of sustainability needs are. I would love to see investments in [research and development] around sustainable next-generation fabrics and technology for the industry.
Teddy Vonranson
Year inducted: 2022 (Interim tier)
I would like to see the incoming CFDA chair focus attention and resources on emerging designers. New York City has always existed as a burgeoning place for creativity. The art scene is strong in supporting key initiatives such as the Whitney Biennial in addition to many artists in residence, mentorship and patronage programs. Tech start-ups benefit from numerous avenues and access to investment capital to grow. I feel that emerging designers like myself would benefit from a commensurate nurturing environment. Many of us have the creative elements of a brand, but lack the structure and support to scale into a viable business.
Tommy Hilfiger
Year inducted: 1988
There is more we can do to mentor and support emerging talent in fashion. The future generations of designers and business leaders are also the ones driving progress in sustainability, digitization and innovation — we have so much to learn from them. There have been many great memories with the CFDA, from our work with the Vogue Fashion Fund to the honor of a Lifetime Achievement Award, but what stands out is working alongside our last chairpeople, coming together to strengthen and celebrate the United States fashion industry.
Tory Burch
Year inducted: 2007
It has never been more important for American fashion to have a unified voice. There are so many talented and diverse designers across the country, and none of us are immune to the current challenges of the macroenvironment. In times of chaos and uncertainty, I hope the CFDA will continue to support American designers and focus on strengthening our community. Together, we can achieve so much more than we can alone.
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