Milan Winners: Armani, Zegna, Gucci, Prada, Fendi Win Retail Raves, as Do Tod’s, Fear of God and More
MILAN — Italy’s fashion heavyweights did not disappoint, from Prada, Gucci and Zegna to Giorgio Armani and Fendi, but retailers also gave positive reviews to younger designers and brands, including JW Anderson, Matteo Tamburini at Tod’s and Jerry Lorenzo at Fear of God.
“Milan held strong this season with a schedule that favored the discovery of new emerging designers next to the brands we know and love from Italy,” said Joseph Tang, fashion director at Holt Renfrew. “Overall, the collections evoked a sense of escapism with a desire to get dressed up in the most sophisticated way possible.”
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Reginald Christian, senior fashion manager, menswear at Saks, said, “The trends in Milan reflected the travel lifestyle and desire for sophisticated and exciting clothing. With linen blends leading the pack, we saw beautiful iterations in wovens, field jackets and trousers.”
Sophie Jordan, menswear buying director at Mytheresa, said she has “seen a ‘lightness’ to the season with a more relaxed approach; looser fits and softer fabrications but overall keeping a sophisticated look and feel. More brands are also leaning into the high summer category for this timing with loose silk and cottons, and a lot of shorts walking the runway, which adds to this overall feeling.”
Indeed, tailoring remains key for spring, but volumes were larger and weights increasingly lighter. Linen was ubiquitous, and seersucker, organza, mesh and soft wool were also popular, as were checkered patterns and light suede jackets and bombers.
Here is what retailers said about the season:
Joseph Tang, fashion director, Holt Renfrew
Favorite collections: Prada, Gucci, Zegna
Best presentation concept: Tod’s by Matteo Tamburini was an immersive experience that demonstrated a new vision while still highlighting the artistry, and craftsmanship of the brand. Brunello Cucinelli’s California-inspired boardwalk infused the brand’s core values with West Coast culture.
Trendspotting: Effortless tailoring from Giorgio Armani, Dolce, Eleventy and Zegna were seen through unlined deconstructed jackets in cashmere, linen yarns and washed silks, done in sun-dried tropical colors of rose, sage and apricot anchored in rich shades of navy, ivory and mocha. The play in proportions via exaggerated silhouettes with Prada, JW Anderson and Gucci reinterpreting traditional codes of tailoring and sportswear. In accessories — the boat shoe still prevails as the must-have footwear item with the men’s slipper emerging as a new key item. There’s an updated twist to accessories this season with Fendi, Gucci, Tod’s and Prada all reinterpreting classics shapes in new materials and shapes.
Must-have items: Match sets from Gucci; linen suit in carbon color palette from Eleventy; Prada cropped jackets and pink sneakers; Fendi collegiate knits; Zegna Oasi linen overshirt, and Tod’s boat-inspired driver.
General comments on the season: Vacation wear was front and center from collections like Dolce & Gabbana, Brunello Cucinelli and Giorgio Armani but what felt new was the youthful spirit seen in surrealist prints and details at night. JW Anderson, Prada and Moschino all showcased ironic nods to traditional codes of tailoring with a subversive twist. We also were excited to see the first taste of what Alessandro Michele presented from Valentino — a show that was not on the schedule this season. If one thing rings true from this week in Milan, it’s that self-expression is empowering.
Bruce Pask, senior editorial director, Neiman Marcus
Favorite collections: Brioni’s inventive seasonal mise-en-scènes perfectly presented designer Norbert Stumpfl’s intricate, complex tailoring by inviting closer examination of some of the most delicately constructed jackets around. Just beautiful. Dolce & Gabbana’s collection of elegant Italian Riviera-inspired getaway-wear was both cinematic and sporty; Zegna, designer Alessandro Sartori at his best; Dunhill designer Simon Holloway brought a little bit of England to Milan as he shared his elegant vision of a modern gentleman’s wardrobe.
Must-have item: A washed linen double-breasted jacket, a pair of Bermuda shorts, a printed camp shirt, boat shoes, a lightweight, unconstructed suit.
Trends: An airy lightness was a pervasive, welcome springtime theme within many collections featuring lightweight linens, paperweight silks, tissue thin unconstructed sartorial jackets, and textural open-weave knitwear and wovens. Giorgio Armani, Ralph Lauren and Brioni were standouts.
Destination dressing was a big focus, with many collections featuring elegant, easy Italian Riviera-inspired looks. A soothing, gentle color palette carried throughout most collections, from Brunello Cucinelli to Kiton. These soft shades weren’t pastels, but chalkier, sun-faded tones that added versatility and ease in mixing wardrobe pieces. Sage green was especially prevalent and looked very fresh. There was a bit of a “Challengers” effect that brought focus to racquet sports capsules and spectator-style sportswear from brands like KNT and Cucinelli to Dunhill.
Best presentation concept: Sabato De Sarno’s Gucci’s runway show at the Triennale Museum in the park included a promenade outside to share the viewing of the collection with 400 students who had applied for access. It was a thoughtful and generous act to encourage the fashion designers of tomorrow. Alessandro Sartori thinks creatively on a grand scale and his runway presentations for Zegna are always spectacular in their scope. This season’s sculptural take on a field of flax, complete with dappled “sunlight” as if the clouds were passing through and the sound of the wind was wonderfully cinematic.
Young-Su Kim, divisional merchandise manager men’s, Bergdorf Goodman.
Favorite Collections: Prada, Zegna, Fear of God
Best presentation concept: Brioni created a transportive experience in a classical palazzo with a labyrinth-like environment. At the Triennale di MIlano, Sabato De Sarno showed his second menswear collection for Gucci. Models walked through the museum and outside where the students could watch the procession.
Trendspotting: A reference for many of the designers was a seaside escape and an ode to the Riviera. Overall, we saw a continuation of the neutral color palette. White crème, sand beige and brown were then infused with watercolor shades of pale pink, orange and yellow. We saw many lightweight and breezy fabrications done in linen and blended with cotton or cashmere as well as washed silks.
Reginald Christian, senior fashion manager, menswear at Saks
Favorite collections: Prada’s garments proposed a new way of dressing for spring; trousers and shirting had a trompe-l’oeil effect, forcing us to lean in closer and consider whether the items were really there. Sabato De Sarno’s collection for Gucci brought an exciting mix of eye-catching colors, fabrics and details. Mr. Armani has a beautiful understanding of how to present a collection that resonates with the wardrobe desires of global travelers. Alessandro Sartori’s collection for Zegna featured models walking among fields of mechanical linen, creating a stage for an incredible collection of sophistication and style. Brunello Cucinelli’s spring 2025 collection was filled with versatile, textured garments in a rhythmic sartorial ensemble that reflected Mr. Cucinelli’s passion for elegance. Set against the lakeside backdrop of Palazzo Bovara, Canali presented tasteful luxury leisurewear garments, breezy knitwear, linen separates, tactile trenchcoats and linen field jackets that felt relevant to the ever-changing landscape of menswear.
Best presentation concept: Brunello Cucinelli and Tod’s, which had an engaging presentation of their ready-to-wear and footwear, showcasing the brand’s commitment to keeping artisanal intelligence alive through the hand-making process of footwear. Upon stepping into the showroom, Brett Johnson brought us directly to Portofino, Italy, complete with lemon trees and small bites from Langosteria. It was the perfect backdrop for his spring-forward collection of lightweight suedes, elevated linen shirts and trousers paired with suede espadrilles.
Trendspotting: The collections showcased outdoor-ready garments, trenches, nylon jackets and vests that offered a sporty-luxe element for the city-to-town guy. Boat shoes and mules were key footwear trends, and the weekend bag and the mini crossbody will be the go-to bag options this season.
Must-have item: Prada’s large belt tote bag and Tod’s Moccasin Mules.
General comment on the season: Milan Men’s Fashion Week showcased incredible Italian-made fabrics and unfussy silhouettes that made us yearn for elegant travel-ready and sophisticated designs catering to the modern man’s lifestyle. Seen best in Giorgio Armani’s dreamy collection of technical silk overshirts and trousers, Mr. Armani’s palm-tree graphics felt alluring and sensible. Jerry Lorenzo of Fear of God presented a modernized design of elongated blazers and voluminous trousers that balanced the comfort and flexibility that sportswear and tailoring should represent. Men’s week featured unexpected pops of vibrancy and creative designs, as seen in JW Anderson’s playful collection of unconventional proportions and inventive garment ideas as well as Prada’s optimistic collection appealing to the youthful luxury shopper. Milan’s commitment to showcasing exceptional tailoring and high-quality clothing resonates with our clients, and it’s a week that we always look forward to.
Sophie Jordan, menswear buying director at Mytheresa
Favorite collections: Zegna was definitely my highlight collection from Milan Fashion Week, it’s consistent and well considered. I loved the use of color and print this season, which felt new but still used elegantly in his favored tonal styling. It is so clear to see and understand the man who is wearing this collection, which is the most important thing I look for as I am buying.
Trendspotting: Tailoring is important as always, but again I feel there is a softness and fluidity, trousers are pleat front with a wider fit, blazers are longer line and relaxed and often styled back to a spread collar shirt, which feels fresh and not literal. Technical fabrications are still making an appearance with a lot of wind stopper luxe nylons but in shapes and silhouettes that feel more part of a rtw collection than a purely function purchase. The use of color across the season so far has felt fresh, coming off the back of a very tonal and neutral fall 2024, the optimism this brings is much needed.
Must-have item: The JW Anderson Guinness knits with pearl embellishments — a fun novelty item that got a great reaction.
Budgets and buying process: Overall, we are keeping our budgets consistent. This will always vary from brand to brand due to individual performance, and also how aesthetics and trends are evolving dictates how we shift our budgets. Our timeless aesthetic brands, and our resort product categories are a key area for budget growth this season.
General comment on the season: Milan felt more energetic this season, it was a busier schedule than previously with brands migrating from London, which added another dynamic to the weekend.
Jian DeLeon, men’s fashion director at Nordstrom
Favorite collections: Prada, Gucci, Fear of God, Martine Rose, JW Anderson
Best presentation concept: Prada’s rave house party was super fun, but Jerry Lorenzo’s Fear of God showroom located inside an old church was absolutely breathtaking.
Trendspotting: I’m seeing a ton of fisherman sandals and lightweight tailoring for warmer seasons. It’s great that men are getting dressed again but finding ways to do it while beating the heat.
Must-have item: I’m torn between the JW Anderson Guinness collaboration and the new trousers from Prada that look like a wintry tweed but are actually a print done on a lighter weight cotton.
General comment on the season: Sabato De Sarno really stepped up Gucci this season with an electrifying collection, including colorful leathers but also side-zip bit boots that look instantly covetable. Prada’s collection inspired by clothes that challenge customers’ perceptions is a great way to encourage getting people back into stores and experiencing product in real life. And runway debuts like Simon Holloway’s Dunhill indicate that classic menswear is exciting again. On the other side of things, Martine Rose and PDF Channel’s Domenico Formichetti reveal that youth culture is alive and well in fashion, making collections and putting on shows that add a well-needed edginess to Milan Fashion Week.
Raphaël Deray, buying manager for men’s luxury and designers at Printemps
Favorite collections: Prada was definitely my favorite collection of the season (and my favorite Prada Men’s since Raf Simons). The trompe l’oeil belts, the shrunken shirts, the cropped sleeves, the pop colors and those knitted polo were amazing. Also, the triangle hole at the back of the garments…very Raf.
Best presentation concept: Martine Rose. She took us to a night rave in Jamaica for 20 minutes and I loved it, with the models’ big nose and extra-long hairs.
Trendspotting: In terms of fabrics, everything seemed pretty light this season, a lot of linen, seersucker, organza, mesh, soft wool. We saw a lot of earthy tones (charcoal, terra-cotta, sage) but there was also something very retro with the pop colors at Prada and Gucci, a lot of prints and monogram were very ’90s (Gucci, Fendi, Zegna and more). When it comes to specific elements, I saw a big return of V-necks and large-opened collars, stripes and piping details
Must-have item: A rugby polo with large stripes.
Budgets: Our OTBs are slightly going down given these times of economic and political uncertainty. We prefer to be cautious and honest with what is happening worldwide.
General comment on the season: Dynamic season with the historic fashion houses setting the tone and the younger designers bringing an unmatched energy (Martine Rose, PDF by Domenico Formichetti). Milan Fashion Week is always more playful and fun with the likes of Moschino, JW Anderson, Dsquared2 (and this time Martine Rose) bringing something different and unique.
Giuseppe D’Amato, buying and merchandising director at Rinascente
Favorite collections: Dolce & Gabbana for the craftsmanship behind each piece and the proposal of a real gentleman look. Prada remains the show with the highest creativity.
Best presentation concept: Prada
Trendspotting: Relaxed tailoring is still present in the men’s collections and this season presented in a wide variety of colors, from bright to neutral up to dark hues. Knitwear has been a strong presence in colorful variations and different fabrics, with the polo knit as the most presented shape. All collections had leather suede jackets or shirts. The most represented item was the classic trenchcoat seen in different fabrics, colors and length.
Must-have item: Chelsea boots from Gucci; long or midi trenchcoats presented by all brands; the maxi soft tote bag by Fendi; pajama shirts; the zippered jumpsuit from Prada, and raffia rtw and accessories.
General comment on the season: The season has been positive with a good evolution of the brands. Elevated, clean and wearable looks. Good focus on accessories and shoes.
Marta Gramaccioni, buying director at LuisaViaRoma
Favorite collections: Gucci for its fit and portability and Zegna, which reflected the Italian elegance from the ‘60s reinterpreted in a modern way.
Best presentation concept: Our Legacy remains one of the most interesting [brands] among the “new” names, along with Moschino by Adrian Appiolaza.
Must-have item: The different versions of oversize weekender bags to wear anytime of the day and for every occasions. As for rtw, mid-thigh shorts whether they are elegant or informal and minimal.
General comment on the season: It seems the collections we are seeing reflect the feelings of uncertainty and a little bit of fear of the market in these days. From our point of view, we are starting to see a slight recovery but it will still take time to return to approaching fashion in an enthusiastic way. Next season will remain “safe,” with products that respond to consumers’ demands, with everyday proposals that can justify investments of the customers.
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