Magliano Men’s Fall 2023
Rustic and chunky knitwear — up to and including sweater coats — has been a recurring story in Milan, and Luca Magliano’s came elegantly pilled and drooping just so, the latest example of his meticulous approach to downbeat, vintage-looking menswear.
His clothes have soul and a lived-in familiarity that the designer mixes and recontextualizes to create intriguing runway personalities — not the life of the party, but the offbeat, weathered guy in the corner harboring the most interesting life story.
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The designer is certainly a wiz with denim, sometimes cut slim and bearing cargo pockets, or loose-fitting and distressed in unique ways.
He exalts humble fashion archetypes: the worker jacket, army-surplus coats and safety footwear. According to his show notes, “luxury is nothing more than a gesture.”
His coed, all-ages cast tread slowly amid a jumble of chairs, giving the audience ample time to study the garment pileups, and interesting details: the puckered collars; the extra-long shirttails ending in dangling braids; the slouchy tailoring, and the striking color combinations, like peach with army green, or baby pink with beige.
Another sentence stood out in the press release, and seemed to say legions about this label, which is gaining heat on the Milan scene: “The underwear is made out of mohair.”
Launch Gallery: Magliano Men's Fall 2023
