This Lesser-known Colorado Ski Area Is Perched Along the Continental Divide and Gets 350 Inches of All-natural Snow a Year

And it's a throwback, ski bum paradise.

I pulled into the parking lot at Monarch Mountain on a cold, windy morning. Snow had arrived the night before, and another storm was on its way. 

"So this is what it's like to start your ski day at 10,790 feet," I thought. 

On average, Monarch's east-facing slopes and high elevation (it tops out at 11,952 feet) provide the ski area with 350 inches of all-natural snow a year. There's zero snowmaking — a rarity in Colorado.

Despite the cold and wind, the parking lot energy was high. Red-cheeked kids with runny noses held up hands to be gloved, and ski bros dropped tailgates to facilitate the intake of coffee with the task of buckling boots. Monarch regulars shouted at each other from across the lot, sharing first-run plans and intel on lift openings.

I took it all in. This is what I was really here for — a reminder of what skiing is all about. It's not the soda company-sponsored version so many resorts offer nowadays, with their heated, bubble-protected chairlifts and Champagne-and-caviar aprés — but the low-pressure "no friends on a powder day" mentality, ratty gear, and parking lot beers.

"Monarch draws those who want the real experience," Randy Stroud, a partial owner and Monarch's former general manager, shared. "Those who do not want the pretentious attitudes that come with other resorts." He says the staff is to thank for "keeping the resort experience uncomplicated and personal rather than just a number in a big box atmosphere."

Beyond its welcoming, throwback feel, Monarch Mountain also has a stellar kids' program and a hidden backside powder stash known for its delivery of the elusive "hero line." Here's what you need to know to experience it in all its glory.

• The mountain sees 350 inches of all-natural snow a year, no icy man-made stuff.

• Its welcoming vibe is great for beginner skiers of all ages. Monarch's kids' programs are renowned and locally loved.

• It's located on the Continental Divide near the Sangre de Cristo mountains. The views from the ski area are 360 degrees and epic.

• There's a "secret" backside basin called Mirkwood, which has some of the best snow in Colorado. Plus, you can ski an additional 1,635 acres outside the ski area boundary with Monarch Cat Skiing.

When to Go

Monarch Mountain typically opens in late November and closes in early April. Since it relies on natural snowfall, its opening dates and coverage tend to vary from season to season. If you want to come when there is near-guaranteed good snow, come in February and March. (Although when I visited in early January 2024, everything was open, and the snow was great.) You can find good deals on lift tickets all season long if you book online in advance and can ski on weekdays for less (tickets start at $69). Saturday is typically the most expensive day to ski.

Where to Stay

Amigo Motor Lodge: This renovated and hipster-fied motel and motor lodge comes with a hefty dose of nostalgia. You can sleep in one of the old-school motel rooms (which have been significantly modernized) or book a night in one of the Airstreams. Public spaces include hot tubs and a morning coffee bar with a grab-and-go breakfast. The Amigo Motor Lodge is located in Salida, the closest well-sized town to Monarch.

Manhattan Hotel: If you want to walk home from dinner and pop out the door for coffee, the Manhattan Hotel is the best option. It's located in Salida's historic downtown and art district and is the only boutique hotel in the area. From the Manhattan, Monarch is around 30 minutes by car.

Mount Princeton Hot Spring Resort: If you plan to partake in the area's other big draw — natural hot springs — you should stay at the Mount Princeton Hot Spring Resort in Nathrop (around 45 minutes from Monarch). An overnight stay includes two days of soaking, which provides the perfect end to a ski day. The geothermal hot springs may be the resort's main draw, but there's nothing wrong with their selection of guest rooms and private, standalone cabins, both of which are surrounded by 14,000-foot mountain peaks.

Surf Hotel: Stroud recommended this hotel in Buena Vista, a town that's around 50 minutes from Monarch but is well worth a visit. The Surf Hotel is situated right along the river in Buena Vista's South Main neighborhood. It has a great restaurant and a year-round calendar of live music. In addition to standard hotel rooms with New Orleans-style balconies, the Surf Hotel operates a collection of rental homes for travelers looking for more space and full kitchens.

Where to Eat

Sidewinder Saloon: The heart of Monarch’s welcoming, authentic ski culture lives at this little gastro pub at the base of the ski area. Stroud says it is “one of the most recognized ski resort saloons in the industry” and has “the same look and feel as the saloon on ‘Cheers.’ And, yes, it is a place where everyone knows your name.” Sidewinder serves high-end pub fare in a relaxed, friendly environment. They’re known for their nachos and bacon-wrapped jalapeno poppers.

The Gunbarrel Grill: For the best bang for your buck, head to The Gunbarrel Grill in Monarch’s main lodge. Stroud says the grill is great for “those on a budget [looking] for awesome and affordable grab-and-go fare.” The cafeteria-style eatery has a little something for everyone, from pizza and hamburgers to soups and salads.

The Biker & The Baker: The creators of Salida’s beloved Sweeties Sandwich Shop and Mo Burritos now have a third eatery: The Biker & The Baker. Their newest establishment is our top off-mountain pick for daily brunch (a great start to any lazy ski day) and Thursday–Saturday evening fare.

Where to Après-ski

Elevation Beer Company: You can get a drink at most Monarch Mountain restaurants, but since the ski area is around 20 miles from the nearest city, Stroud says, "Monarch essentially downplays its necessity to provide an après ski experience and prefers our guests take advantage of everything Salida, Buena Vista, and Mt. Princeton have to offer." One of Stroud's closest recommendations is Elevation Beer Company in Poncha Springs (25 minutes from Monarch). They have up to 16 brews on tap and to-go beers. If you're staying in Salida, you might want to swing by Elevation's outpost, The Office Bar, in downtown Salida.

Wood's High Mountain Distillery: If cocktails are more to your liking, drop by Wood's High Mountain Distillery in downtown Salida. Their whiskey, gin, and vodka are regionally loved and are served in a unique 100-year-old building. The distillery also offers tours with product samples.

Boathouse Cantina: Another of Stroud's recommendations, the Boathouse Cantina, is backed by thousands of reviewers who adore the Baja-style eatery for its riverfront location, views, and stellar margaritas. The Boathouse is best on a sunny day, when you can take advantage of its outdoor deck seating overlooking the river.

Other On-mountain Activities

Tubing: Monarch also has tubing for adults and kids (you must be at least 36 inches tall). The tubing hill is located right at the base of the ski area and has four tubing “lanes.” Tubing sessions are one hour long and available every 15 minutes. Walk-ins are welcome, but you can also book online in advance.

Cat Skiing: Monarch Mountain has an out-of-bounds acreage that is double what they have in-bounds. By booking a day of cat skiing, you and 12 others will get access to the rarely skied terrain surrounding Monarch — including wide-open bowls, steep chutes, and great tree skiing. A seat on the cat starts at $500 and includes a beacon and avy pack rental, lunch, and an après-ski bevvy. Cat skiing at Monarch is only for expert skiers and riders.

How to Ride

Tickets: Monarch Mountain is not on the Ikon or Epic pass, so most visiting skiers will need to buy a lift ticket. Monarch uses dynamic pricing, meaning you'll find the best deal by buying early and visiting during low-demand times (like weekdays). Ticket prices currently start at $69. If you have a ski pass at another independent resort (full list here), you may be entitled to free skiing at Monarch. These "Partner Resort Passes" must be purchased or picked up at the Monarch ticket window. Don't forget to bring along your partner's pass as proof.

Rentals: Monarch's Rental Center has everything you need to get on the mountain, including ski and snowboard rentals for kids, helmets, bindings, and high-end performance gear. For the best pricing, reserve your rentals by 11 p.m. the night before your arrival. The Rental Center opens daily at 8 a.m. Jacket and snow pant rentals are also available at the Rental Center and at Elation Sports in the main lodge. "[This year] look for a completely revamped retail experience where our apparel and snow sports gear are second to none," said Stroud. "Experience the winter, not the cold, is our motto."

Skiing and Snowboarding Info

Stats: Monarch Mountain is a fairly small ski area with seven chairlifts and 67 trails (although new terrain is coming in 2025/26). Around 36 percent of the ski area is single-black terrain, while 27 percent are blue-rated runs. Green runs make up 22 percent of the ski area, while 12 percent are double-blacks, and 3 percent is in the terrain park. The backside Mirkwood area also offers hike-to skiing. In total, riders can play in Monarch’s 800 acres or dip out of bounds with the mountain’s cat skiing operation to explore an additional 1,635 acres of expert terrain.

Lessons & Clinics: When it comes to teaching people to ski, Monarch shines. They have day lessons for people ages 3 to 99+, multi-day camps, adult clinics, and multi-week youth programs. “The mountain is perfect for those looking at diving into the whole experience that is learning to ski,” said Stroud. “Programs range from never-ever instruction to competition training. Our Snow Sports professionals are simply the best in the business. We pride ourselves on being coaches, not instructors.” It’s best to book group lessons online at least two days before your arrival. Private and adaptive lessons and multi-day camps, clinics, and programs must be booked over the phone at (719) 530-5196.

Childcare: Monarch also offers childcare on high-demand weekends for children ages 3 to 6. Childcare can also include a 90-minute group or private lesson.