Hermès New York Show Amps Up Sex Appeal, Urban Edge for French Luxury Leader
“The sky’s the limit, that’s the New York experience,” Hermès artistic director Nadège Vanhée told WWD ahead of part two of her fall 2024 collection which hit the runway Thursday night.
The mood was set as soon as guests walked into the Pier 36 venue, where dozens of hanging yellow traffic lights swayed above the runway. The house brought out a strong mix of global customers, including Usher, Tierra Whack, Morgan Spector, Rebecca Hall and more to experience the New York minute, which extended well into the night.
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Immediately following the show, the curtains dropped to reveal an Hermès “Manhattan Rocabar” after party on an outdoor terrace along the water, with DJ booth (featuring musical performances by Rahill, Caroline Polachek and Honey Dijon), passed cocktails, and catering by the iconic Carbone eatery.
During a preview Wednesday, Vanhée described the show as a cousin to her February Paris Fashion Week runway outing. While ultimately as luxurious as its predecessor, there was a distinct shift in this second chapter to something more youthful with an urban edge and sex appeal.
“The zigzag between Paris and New York” kicked off with brightly colored and patterned takes on traditional horse riding and motorbike riding classics, mixed with eclectic New York style as observed by Vanhée, a former New Yorker.
Leather-trimmed, taxicab yellow outerwear; stoplight red and bright blue double-rosette collar turtlenecks; wool knit equestrian sport jackets; quilted moto layers, and loads of sleek leather pants set the vibe to the tune of A Tribe Called Quest’s “Luck of Lucien.”
She continued to amp up the energy with silk scarf tops and hybrid cashmere knits boasting the brand’s heritage “Rocabar” blanket stripe motif. Pushing knitwear further were striped knit dresses and sets with luxe leather inserts, as worn by Paloma Elesser and Irina Shayk. As the palette transitioned to graphic black and white, lambskin overalls stood out as one must-have item, although there were plenty.
The looks were accessorized to the nines with slick, city-stomping footwear, including luxe leather cowboy boots from the Paris show, now also in white. She also layered-up high and fashion jewelry including studded Colliers de Chiens cuffs and stacked bangles; edgy leather mariner caps (worn by each model), and scarf, chain and leather belts. Handbags came big and small, perfect for city schlepping or nights on the town, with envelope-style options and mini bags worn around the waist among the standouts.
Vanhée wanted to create a patchwork of New York personalities, psychologies and styles inspired by the street, and the mix of heritage Parisian luxe and Big Apple grit was well worth the trip.
Launch Gallery: Hermès Ready-to-Wear Fall 2024 Collection
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