How did a 7-time Michelin Star restaurant lose its Star in 2024?

This household name shouldn’t be unfamiliar to you.

Boasting a 1-Michelin-Star win for 7 consecutive years (2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2021, 2022 and 2023), Putien’s first outlet at Kitchener Road has broken its streak in Singapore’s Michelin Guide 2024. With 4 new entries added to the Michelin Star line-up, which currently features 51 dazzling restaurants, it’s a cutthroat battle for the culinary throne.

putien kitchener rd -interior

Like many of us, I have always heard how the Michelin Guide is esteemed and all lah. Right smack in the modern-day dependence on online reviews and food influencers, this begs the question: is it worth fighting for a position in the Guide?

Crash course. The Michelin Guide includes 3 prominent categories: Michelin Star, Michelin Bib Gourmand and recently, Michelin Green Star.

Let’s look at the Stars.

michelin star - grading system

Ranging from 1 to 3 stars, the Michelin Star category focuses on 5 criteria. According to the Guide’s website, this is the “quality of the ingredients used, mastery of flavour and cooking techniques, the personality of the chef in the cuisine, harmony of flavours, and consistency between visits.”

They have also made it clear that the restaurant’s ambience and customer service are not accounted for when awarding stars.

On the other hand, the Michelin Green Star is a relatively new category that awards establishments which prioritise the importance of sustainability. Go green guys!

Now that you have a clearer understanding of what’s up with the Guide, let’s go back to Putien. Disclaimer: I’m not a Michelin Guide Inspector, okay; this is based on personal experiences and theoretical what-ifs.

michelin guide - inspectors' requirements

As a frequent regular of the Chinese restaurant, I can vouch that their ingredients are of good quality and yes, the flavour of its dishes are somewhat harmonious. Now, this leaves “mastery of flavour and cooking techniques” and “the personality of the chef in the cuisine”.

michelin guide - putien dishes

Food for thought. If they are looking at the “consistency between visits” as well, does this mean that they will be assessing the same chef throughout? While these criteria are up to interpretation, there’s only so much we can ponder on. But, what we know is that “the chef” lies at the forefront of every decision.

In addition, Putien isn’t the only establishment that has fallen from grace. Beni at Mandarin Gallery, Cure at Keong Saik Road and Reve at Kreta Ayer Road are all previous 1-Michelin-Star awardees that were removed from the list this year.

Michelin Guide or Guise? You decide.

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