Giorgio Armani Men’s Spring 2025: Palms and Calm, Breezy Tailoring
Two days after his Emporio show, Giorgio Armani transformed his Via Bergognone runway theater into a terrace in the tropics for his collection display, setting out rows of wooden director’s chairs and projecting shuddering palm leaves around the perimeter.
This smooth, confident collection felt like a master class in tailored dressing for hot climates, the shoulders of his silky, unlined jackets melting on the shoulders, their patch pockets sagging open as the models strolled by in their soft suede loafers and espadrilles.
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No big gusts of innovation or excitement here, but a steady, reassuring breeze of gentle colors, featherweight fabrics, those inimitable Armani textures, and artful layering.
Suits in shirt-weight fabrics have been gathering steam in Milan — they even made an appearance at Prada on Sunday — and Armani elaborated on them with panache. He stripped away lapels and collars, added patch and utility pockets here and there, and paired everything with loose, flowing pants that drifted over bare ankles.
He also reprised his loose, pointy-collared shirts from the ‘80s, and his singular take on classic menswear patterns like Prince of Wales checks and herringbone. It’s to Armani’s credit that a simple navy T-shirt bearing subtle, two-tone zigzags is immediately identifiable to his brand universe.
The shadowy palm prints flickering on the walls also made an appearance on silky shirts and jackets, and these are sure to be a hit among holiday makers, or fans of “The White Lotus” series.
Armani is never afraid to go against the grain of fashion, but here the winds are blowing in his direction, and his spring collection ticked the suede, linen and pastel boxes.
Such instincts, and consistency, reflect Armani’s long experience in the fashion business — he marks his 50th anniversary next year — and the loyalty of his key collaborators, two of whom joined the designer for his runway bow: Leo Dell’Orco, his right-hand man and head of the men’s style office, and Gianluca Dell’Orco, head of the Giorgio Armani men’s style office, who has been with the company for 35 years. (He’s also Leo’s nephew.)
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Launch Gallery: Giorgio Armani Spring 2025 Men's Ready-to-Wear Collection Photos
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