Experiencing experimental cuisine at 'The Square'

There is something about food that makes one either like it or detest it: it is commonly called taste; I like to call it the ‘X’ factor. The ‘X’ factor is always evolving. It took humans a while before realizing that food tastes better with salt, and not before long we also realized that excess of salt makes the very same food taste terrible.

There is a science or rather an art called molecular gastronomy that investigates the transformation of ingredients and how they react when combined. This branch of cooking converts a simple kitchen into a laboratory. I recently had the pleasure of enjoying one such avant-garde meal in Hyderabad.

I was invited to a food tasting at the Novotel Convention Centre in Hyderabad where Chef Gaurav Malhotra and Chef Saurav Choudhuri had curated an exclusive menu. ‘The Square’ is a multi-cuisine restaurant that boasts of a wide fare and is popular for its buffets. I had to give the buffet a miss to explore a unique menu.

Appointed in a light and simple manner, the food at ‘The Square’ was anything but! The buffet was laid out neatly and each item was tastefully presented. The kitchen was partially open, filling the air with the aroma of food under preparation.

I began with a refreshing glass of mojito and a Confit tomato salad, which was engulfed by an invigorating whiff of coriander ‘air’. The appetizers comprised water chestnut and sweet corn dumplings served in tomato consommé. The dumplings were delectable and soft with the dough not too thick.
The enthusiastic bunch that served me ensured I was not wanting for anything.

The main course was a simple, unassuming dish that still tasted amazing: Masaledar Norwegian cottage cheese served with saffron potato puree. This was essentially a small cake of spiced Paneer accompanied with asparagus and foam of potato. The creamy layer of potato foam gave way to the Masaledar Paneer to create an extravagant affair in the mouth.

The dessert was a masterstroke. Called Textures of Mango, this Masterchef-worthy creation was a confluence of creatively engineered mango desserts put together on one plate: a Shahi Tukda drenched in mango, a piece of mango candy (with even the wrapper made from the golden fruit), and a sweet cake equipped with an Alphonso syrup-filled tiny pipette (that I gleefully squeezed onto the confection).

However, the pièce de résistance were the tiny mango pearls strewn across the plate. Spherification is a culinary process of converting a liquid into spheres using sodium alginate. As I placed the yellow globules in my mouth, a thick, heavenly mango juice oozed onto my tongue. Using different mangoes, from Alphonso to baiganpalli, the chef had managed to create a symphony of flavours that came together fabulously.

While I was captivated with the food on my table, I did note the prompt service. The ambience was peaceful and quite perfect for business dinners. But what made my experience at ‘The Square’ truly memorable was the experimental cuisine and modern technique of cooking – novel, and utterly satisfying to the palate.