Cheeky Bee Hoon: Ex fine-dining chef’s Malaysian-style bee hoon & fresh crab dumplings in Katong

Bee hoon has been part of my childhood for as long as I can remember. It’s my first choice in fishball noodles and part of my all-time favourite dish, Crab Bee Hoon. The story behind Katong’s Cheeky Bee Hoon is definitely one-of-a-kind, as it was started by a former fine dining chef.

Helmed by Chef Darwin Wong, Cheeky Bee Hoon sets a high bar of expectations, with the entire kitchen crew made up of fine dining chefs. Chef Darwin is famed for his innovative cooking style, and one of his many achievements has been the success of his French-Japanese fusion restaurant JIDAI. His experience working in famed restaurants like Beurre and Jaan has certainly elevated his prestige.

That begs the question: why not continue with fine dining? Chef Darwin explained that he wanted to offer gourmet food at affordable prices so more people can enjoy good food. What better way than to serve bee hoon, an extremely versatile carb that Singaporeans love? 

In a neighbourhood full of good grub joints like the newly shifted Hua Yi Restaurant and Joo Chiat Càphê, it looks like there is now a go-to spot for Malaysian-style bee hoon, too.

The older folks are sure to appreciate the decor in Cheeky Bee Hoon. With ’80s Chinese memorabilia like vintage posters and antique household items, this place truly evokes memories of the past. Even the wooden dining tables are made in a design reminiscent of the ones found in roadside stalls decades ago.

I do admit that the place is slightly narrow, which calls for some careful manoeuvring around the restaurant. When crowded, the space is rather limited; I recommend you visit during non-peak hours for comfort’s sake.

What I tried at Cheeky Bee Hoon

Cheeky Bee Hoon’s main dishes are bee hoon (obviously) in 3 different forms —  Soup (S$8.80), Dry (S$8.80) and Braised Pork (S$8.80). However, Chef recommends the Soup and Braised Pork, which involves 2 starkly different flavour profiles that will be worth your while.

For those who enjoy their noodles with an extra heaty kick, the Braised Pork is sure to be a winner. The sambal sauce hidden under the noodles was extraordinary with its extra savoury flavour yet sharp spice. Be sure to mix the noodles and sauce well for the full experience!

The noodles are of a unique type, and look like vermicelli’s curly twin. Handmade in Malaysia, these strands of joy picked up the sauce incredibly well. It was also QQ to the max, delivering a lot of satisfaction from its texture.

I thoroughly enjoyed the braised pork, which was on the extra tender side. Being so soft that it practically tore just from being picked up, this braised pork definitely amazed me. The fat distribution of the pork was just right; it had the perfect ratio of fat to lean meat.

For those worried about the jelak-ness of this dish, the coriander sauce is perfect for dipping. Normally, I avoid strong herbs like coriander as if it were the plague. However, the sauce here had a light tang, providing a great refresher from the lingering fatty taste.

Expecting a light broth from the Soup version? The first sip will be a psych moment for sure. What I found surprising was how the soup was multi-layered, with the light sweet umami fading into a peppery kick. 

This liquid gold turned out to be Japanese pork bone broth that had rock sugar and seaweed in it to give that full-bodied flavour profile. On the other hand, the addition of wolfberries gave it a light sweetness to balance out the broth. 

This thick bee hoon is special. Chef Darwin emphasised the importance of the thicker noodle, explaining that it helped to soak up that hearty broth. The effort was definitely noticeable, as each mouthful of bee hoon picked up oodles of the soup’s flavour.

Of course, the toppings are of equal importance. My favourite was the huge Lala. With this lala being one of the biggest I’ve ever seen, you are truly getting your money’s worth in this bee hoon. I adored how the clams absorbed all the goodness from the broth, complementing its natural salty taste. 

If you prefer some meatballs and minced pork, the Signature (S$11.80) comes with more ingredients to enjoy with the flavourful broth.

Don’t forget Cheeky Bee Hoon’s side dishes, especially the unique ones like Mala Crispy Pork (S$3.80) and Charcoal You Tiao with Otah (S$4.80). The latter is especially unique in terms of texture, with the soft otah interior buried within that crispy you tiao exterior. A yummy and cheeky combination, if you ask me.

The Crab Dumpling Soup (S$4.80) contains 4 pockets of crab-stuffed dumplings. With actual crab chunks, it paired great with the chewy dumpling skin. My 2 cents is that the soup is on the saltier side, which may not be for everyone.

Final thoughts

As an Eastie, I was completely over the moon that I had found this incredible gem. With bee hoon dishes that will blow your mind, Cheeky Bee Hoon will surely become a must-try stop in Katong. Perhaps, you can get a cup of Joe at the nearby Kohi Coffee Bar after a satisfying meal, too.

Expected damage: S$8.80 – S$13.60 per pax

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