Char Kway Teow Showdown: Outram Park Fried Kway Teow Mee vs Hill Street Fried Kway Teow
In this showdown, I am returning to an area I have strangely grown to love. Chinatown. This touristy district houses one of the most revered char kway teow stalls on the island.
Michelin Bib Gourmand’s Outram Park Fried Kway Teow Mee sits in a quiet corner of Chinatown’s beloved hawker centre. Not far away is lesser-known but beloved Hill Street Fried Kway Teow, said to be “the best in Singapore.”
Both are rooted in decades of history and I was beyond excited to pay a visit. I will be determining my verdict of this showdown using 3 factors – Ingredients, Noodles and Value for Money.
To clarify, I have separated Noodles (Kway Teow) as a factor on its own as I place great emphasis on a wok hei-laden base. Ingredients are its complementaries and Value for Money is self-explanatory.
Ready to take on the smoke?
Outram Park Fried Kway Teow Mee
“You can try lah, but may not have anymore.”
These were the exact words from the third-generation stall owner at this Hong Lim Market & Food Centre stall on the first day I visited. With his 70-year-old father continuously frying up the char kway teow alone, the long wait was evident in the insane queue that went up to the raised platform of the hawker centre.
Not wanting to take risks, I came much earlier the next day.
Imagine my horror when the queue was just as long. Biting the bullet, I braved the “45-minute wait” he warned me of while cheerfully collecting my payment. During the next 40 minutes or so, I struck up a conversation with a regular who had not visited the stall for more than 10 years.
She shared with a chuckle, “I watched the current stall owner’s father cook!” The last time she patronised Outram Park Kway Teow Mee was at its original location in Outram Park which was established in 1953. Despite that, she noted that the queue has always been this long and she still believes that “they are the best in Singapore.”
While you may add Cockles (S$2) or Egg (S$0.50), their Char Kway Teow comes in S$4.50 and S$5.50 portions. As usual, I was curious to see if the smallest share (S$4.50) gave me bang for my buck.
Generously topped with fresh hum, the moist kway teow was laced with crunchy tau geh and pillowy pieces of fishcake. While the ingredients created a delightful contrast of texture, the chunks of savoury pork lard sealed the deal for me. I especially enjoyed mixing and matching the plump cockles with them.
“Eh, actually worth the wait,” said my mum. Watching her eat that Michelin-approved silky noodles with gusto, there was something that was bothering me though.
Where was the wok hei?
Although scrambled egg coated the flat rice noodles, I could not discern the smokiness that defines the “char” of this iconic dish. There might be an answer to my conundrum. To accommodate the never-ending number of orders, the chef cooks up to 20 plates at one go. Aw, man.
Aside from the lack of wok hei, Outram Park Kway Teow Mee ticked all the boxes for a solid plate of char kway teow. This “wet” variation was velvety-smooth but not oily at all. We found ourselves slurping the kway teow down within minutes.
For an extra oomph of flavour, pair your char kway teow with some tangy-sweet chilli. Disclaimer to my fellow spice intolerants: a little goes a long way.
Now, Value for Money? Given the amount (plus variety) of ingredients and noodles we got for less than S$5, it was worth it indeed. If you’d asked me if I would return, maybe, if I am in the Chinatown area before lunchtime. Like many regulars, my mum will beg to differ.
“Should we dabao another one home?” she exclaimed. Not today, we had a mission to complete at Chinatown Complex Market & Food Centre.
531A Upper Cross St, Hong Lim Market & Food Centre, #02-17, Singapore 051531
+65 9838 7619
Mon to Sat: 6am – 3pm
Closed on Sun
Hill Street Fried Kway Teow
It was closed.
According to the stall’s neighbours, their opening dates and timings are not fixed as the stall owner often has medical appointments. “Usually, the safest to come is Tuesday and Thursday. But they sometimes open on other days too, so I can’t fully confirm,” he shared. After trying to “catch” them twice, I succeeded on my third try.
Aunty, do you open on Tuesdays and Thursdays?
“不一定 (Not certain) leh,” she replied. I had to thank my lucky stars upon seeing a decent queue curving in front of Hill Street Fried Kway Teow on a late Tuesday afternoon. Although it was not as long as the first, it was definitely the longest queue among most of the stalls at this time.
Contrary to popular belief, they are not associated with Bedok’s highly-raved Hill Street Fried Kway Teow. If there is one thing in common, they used to be located at the now-defunct Hill Street Food Centre. Back to this Chinatown counterpart, the char kway teow joint is helmed by an elderly couple in their 70s. Fun fact?
Always seen with trusty safety goggles, Uncle has been cooking up a storm since he was 17! History aside, I was pleased to see that their Char Kway Teow is priced at S$4 and S$5. Unfortunately, there are no listed options for a cockle or egg add-on.
You know that it is the real deal when a dish is served on a hawker paper or styrofoam plate. At Hill Street Fried Kway Teow, they combine both.
NGL, the glistening fare looked really promising.
Straight off the bat, I must say, their version had more pizzazz. Other than the usual tau geh, pork lard and hums (these were so juicy), the greasy kway teow was laced with stalks of spring onion and aromatic lap cheong. At first impression, we agreed that they had a greater depth of flavour and were simply, sinfully good.
As compared to Outram Park Fried Kway Teow Mee, the wok hei did come through better here. This was probably because Uncle cooks each plate individually, which yields a consistent “char” to every kway teow. Regardless, I wished that there was more smoke to it.
While the golden-brown noodles were similarly blanketed with stir-fried eggs, my only gripe with this “dry” variation was that it was quite oily. Richly infused with appetising lap cheong, this char kway teow was an absolute joy to the tastebuds. However, after eating it for a while, we felt rather jelat.
But to each their own mah. In addition to being light eaters, we prefer the “wet” version over the “dry” as the latter is heavier on the palate.
Portion-wise, this was a clear sign of Value of Money! My mum and I almost could not finish the S$4 plate here. Safe to say, for S$0.50 less, this can fill 2 diners. With the manageable queue (up to a 30-minute wait), I can imagine dropping by for a hearty breakfast or lunch if they happen to be open, of course.
Well, it’s decision time.
335 Smith St, Chinatown Complex Market & Food Centre, #02-32, Singapore 050335
Tue, Thu & Sat: 9am – 5pm (May be inaccurate)
The Verdict
Ignore what I said earlier LOL, I am basing my verdict on these plates without external factors involved.
In terms of Ingredients, Outram Park Fried Kway Teow Mee has a clean-tasting profile that is reminiscent of simple yesteryears’ joys while Hill Street Fried Kway Teow has a full-bodied combination which was accentuated by the spunky addition of lap cheong. As the quality of both stalls was on par, I will rate this a draw.
In terms of Noodles, we are looking at opposite ends of the spectrum – “wet” from Outram Park and “dry” from Hill Street. With wok hei being the cornerstone of every char kway teow, I have to give Hill Street’s Uncle the recognition for frying each order separately. “Char” aside, I appreciated how Outram Park’s were more palatable though.
Value for Money goes to Hill Street with its abundantly-sized S$4 Char Kway Teow. Don’t be shocked, the elusive Hill Street Char Kway Teow takes the win. Its amazing depth and affordability make up for the kway teow’s oily goodness.
“I think your papa would like this,” my mum said as we left the ‘winning’ stall. Once again, to each our own.
The post Char Kway Teow Showdown: Outram Park Fried Kway Teow Mee vs Hill Street Fried Kway Teow appeared first on SETHLUI.com.
