America’s Best Small Lake Town Has Dazzling Waters, Uncrowded Beaches, and a 20-mile-long Tunnel of Trees

With the stylish renovation of a beloved roadside lodge, modern travelers are newly discovering historic Harbor Springs, a shoreline utopia on Lake Michigan that generations of Midwesterners have tried to keep a secret.

Located on Lake Michigan’s Little Traverse Bay — at the far-flung “tip of the mitt” — Harbor Springs has been a resort destination, mostly for Midwesterners, since the 1850s. Come Memorial Day weekend, the population of this quintessential American lake community — imagine sherbet-hued cruiser bikes, moored boats bobbing in a turquoise harbor, and 19th-century storefronts bedecked in tufts of patriotic bunting — swells to about five times its year-round population of 1,270 people. Considering Harbor Springs’ tiny geography of just 1.3 square miles, the sudden surge might sound like a swarm, were most of them not recreationally dispersed over land and lake, on boats and beaches and backroads beyond the town boundaries.

“An intentional lack of sprawl maintains the quaint feel and preserves the diversity and beauty of our natural surroundings,” says Tobin MacCready, a second-generation local shop owner. Indeed, nary a fast-food chain nor big-box store mars this historic postcard idyll.

The stylish addition of a newly refurbished former roadside lodge now called Otis, co-owned by a fourth-generation Harbor Springs sojourner, brings an energizing infusion of first-timers to the town. Once a bustling port for lumber and fur trading (and even bootlegging and gambling, most famously at the long-shuttered Club Manitou, a rumored haunt for mobsters from the 1930s to 50s), the generations of Midwestern families that have vacationed in Harbor Springs include some of the biggest names in American industry, like Bissel, Gamble, and Ford. Among the town’s most beautiful sites are the families’ vintage lakefront “cottages,” late 19th-century architectural confections the rest of us would call mansions.

“What I love about Harbor Springs is that its history is so intertwined with industry and manufacturing,” says Daniel Caudill, creative and brand consultant for Otis. “It’s a town that came to be when America was coming into its own.”

Why Harbor Springs is the Best Small Lake Town in the U.S. for 2024

Measuring just 1.3 square miles on the furthest reaches of Lake Michigan, the town of Harbor Springs barely qualifies as a radar blip, even for lifelong Midwesterners. Knowing that the best of anything is often overlooked, the lucky lakesiders — including titans of American industry and their families — who have spent time in this historic 19th-century hub of fur and lumber trading are drawn as much to its hush-hush seclusion (bereft, as it is, of any signs of big-city commerce) as they are to its surrounding scenery, unspoiled and ripe for recreation: The turquoise beaches and bays are often likened to the Caribbean, but in color only — the summer temperature of the water tops out at 69 degrees Fahrenheit, making swimming a piercing, but popular, pursuit.

Lakeview bluffs, windblown sand dunes, and jaunty ski hills are easy elevations with sporting payoffs. Enchanting roads through forests of birch, maple, and cedar can be embraced by leafy canopies, like the 20-mile Tunnel of Trees along the M-119 highway. At the southern terminus of this particular scenic byway, just beyond Harbor Springs’ stately neighborhoods of heritage lake cottages that look like architectural layer cakes, an old roadside lodge has been recently resurrected into a stylish inn with strong ties to Michigan’s midcentury-design heritage, just in time to welcome a new generation of travelers to the area.

Where to Stay

Otis Harbor Springs

Formerly a farm estate turned corporate retreat for Frito-Lay and then a longstanding, albeit ramshackle inn, this beloved property has been recently restored into Otis, a boutique roadside resort set among breezy meadows and quiet horse farms on the edge of Harbor Springs. The new owners, Ty Humpert and Israel Hernandez, brought on two alums from the acclaimed Detroit-based lifestyle brand Shinola to lead the project, guided by Michigan’s rich history in mid-century design — after all, Charles and Ray Eames both attended the state’s historic Cranbrook Academy of Art.

Each of the 31 peaceful guest rooms is intentionally appointed with not much more than high-quality foundational pieces, from low-slung chaises to custom beds to oversized Noguchi-inspired orb lamps that provide a private source of moonlight. Conversely, the main lodge, anchored by an original stone fireplace, is appointed with a layered, painterly tableau of mid-century trappings salvaged from dank basements, vintage troves like Brimfield Flea Market in Massachusetts and Le Shoppe Modern in Keego Harbor, Michigan, plus the exceptional Lost Art Salon of San Francisco. “We’ve called on Michigan’s design heritage to offer something unique and new to the area,” says Caudill.

Where to Eat and Drink

Gurney’s Bottle Shop

There’s often a line out the door for this cash-or-check-only sandwich counter and wine shop. Its aversion to tomatoes — they are verboten on the premises — is just one of the idiosyncrasies that make this such a locally revered deli. You can build your own handheld, but the popular Train Wreck (a meat lover’s delight) is a one-and-done lunch for most customers. A pungent swipe of house-made Gurney’s Deli Sauce, a garlic-horseradish mayo, is as integral to the stack as the thick-sliced homemade bread.

Yummies

This delightful, if slightly shabby, ice cream shop on Main Street is the sort of place where old standards like a nearly-neon mint chip are equal in number to locally inspired flavors. For instance, the Wilderness Strawberry is mixed with fresh northern Michigan fruit, and Oreo-studded peppermint ice cream comprises the Petoskey Stone, named after the fossilized coral found in these parts. Whatever you decide, make it a double.

Legs Inn

This bustling summer spot in Cross Village — part of Harbor Springs Township — is just as much known for its hearty Polish fare as it is for its maximalist venue: a 1920s historic cottage of river stone and timber chock-a-block with taxidermy, totem poles, arcade games, and one hardworking disco ball. A Rockettes-style array of antique stove legs — hence the landmark’s name — is arranged on the roof, a quirky tribute to an erstwhile local manufacturer of wood-burning hearths. With the property’s lush lawn and panoramic view of Lake Michigan, the backyard is a scenic spot for a dinner of crispy breaded pork kotlet, toothsome potato pierogi, and juicy kielbasa. As it goes with stick-to-your-ribs fare, the portions are substantial. Chase accordingly with frosty pints of Polish beer like the hoppy and crisp Zywiec.

Otis Harbor Springs

Most who come for the inn’s sumptuous setting and witty cocktails like the About Last Night (a smoky margarita) or the Surprisingly Affordable (featuring the Midwest’s own “Champagne of beers”), end up staying for dinner. Chef Shane Abe brings his culinary pedigree from top San Francisco restaurants to shape the food program at Otis, a seasonal, farm-to-table concept with Mediterranean tendencies.

Fresh meats and vegetables from local producers like KK’s Farm and Beckon Hill Farms drive the menu, whether they inspire pickled-beet hummus or simple roast chicken. Abe is particularly excited about the handmade pasta, with at least two varieties daily, like tagliatelle tossed in a long-simmering duck ragù and agnolotti stuffed with a mix of ricotta and charcuterie “ends” (the latter reflects the chef’s waste-not-want-not philosophy), this artisan offering is especially meaningful. “Since handmade pastas are such a labor of love, they show how much we care about people and food,” says Abe.

Things to do

Pond Hill Farm

What started as a humble roadside stand selling a dozen eggs for a dollar is now a 198-acre agricultural adventure land featuring an organic farm, vineyard and winery, brick-oven pizzeria, taproom, lumber mill, woodshop, hiking trail system, wedding venue, live music stage, and so much more. In spearheading this multifaceted concept, which is almost entirely self-contained (the vineyard supplies the grapes for the estate label, the farm fuels the restaurant, the 60 forested acres keep the lumber mill buzzing, and so on), owner Jimmy Spencer, who is from Harbor Springs himself, qualifies as a kind of benevolent autodidact, keeping many of Pond Hill’s hand-built recreational offerings free to the public. “I didn’t grow up with any money,” he says, “so I think it’s important that everyone in town has something fun to experience.”

Throw caution to the wind and join a game of human foosball. Refuel for a second round of activity — apple cannons or gnome scavenger hunt, anyone? — with the famous Parmesan-crusted pesto grilled cheese and a glass of the estate St. Pepin, a refreshing, floral white wine with a round mouthfeel and notes of apricot.

Pointer Boat

A tour of Little Traverse Bay on an authentic restoration of the historic water taxi that once shuttled the wealthy residents of the car-less Harbor Point neighborhood into town is a lovely way to get the lay of the land and the lake. The hour-long tour cruises around the bay at a relaxing 5 miles per hour, just the right speed to generate a pleasant breeze through the windowless sides of the boat. The captain and first mate provide storytelling about the grand waterfront cottages, the bay’s history of lumber and fur trading, and general lake statistics (170 feet at its deepest point; 69 degrees and holding, at least in summer). Owned and operated by Stafford’s Pier Restaurant, the tours begin and end at the eatery’s private dock.

Tunnel of Trees

This 20-mile scenic byway along the M-119 Highway begins in Harbor Springs and ends at Cross Village, making it the prettiest meander to dinner at Legs Inn through sun-dappled canopies of cedar, birch, and maple trees — with peek-a-boo vistas of the lake, of course. For over 30 years, Ty Humpert, co-owner of Otis, has been journeying along this route with this family. “Each season brings a new experience, a different look and feel,” he says of the snowy carpets of trillium flowers in the spring to the sounds of creaking, crashing ice coming from the lakeshore in winter. “I never get tired of it.” The duration of the drive is up to you: barreling straight through to Cross Village logs about 35 minutes of drive time. But with stops at Thorne Swift Nature Preserve (for a guided walk to identify wildflowers and medicinal herbs), Trillium Woods p coffee shop (for a maple-mushroom latte and pop-up activities like a tintype portrait studio) or Good Hart General Store (for made-in-Michigan souvenirs like pure maple syrup or M-119 baseball caps), expect to add some well-spent hours to the road trip.

Beach Day

There is no shortage of beaches in the area, but here are two popular strands: Zorn Park is a small municipal beach located between two private marinas, near the Harbor Springs waterfront. Fed by artesian springs, the water is about 8 degrees colder here than the rest of the bay, though the perks — a lifeguard, a soft, sandy bottom, a swimming platform, and a grassy lawn for picnics — offset the extra chill. Farther north, there’s Sturgeon Bay Beach, a popular destination for its three miles of picturesque beach and impossibly clear water. While Israel Hernandez, co-owner of Otis, recommends a post-lunch arrival to give the shallows a chance to heat up, you can always just climb one of the sand dunes across North Lake Shore Drive to build up a sweat before taking a cooling dip. For more immediate gratification, Margaret Tvedten of Tvedten Fine Art in downtown Harbor Springs recommends shaving off 15 minutes of drive time from Harbor Springs to Sturgeon by taking the inland route via State Road (past another iconic local restaurant, the Crow’s Nest Restaurant), rather than the coastal M-119.

Ski  Day

While it’s easy to love a lake town in summertime, Harbor Springs also happens to be a gorgeous winter destination, even in the throes of lake-effect snow — an atmospheric occurrence generated when below-freezing air passes over warmer lake waters to create snowfall, even on a clear day. “One of my favorite things about this area is the distinct seasons and the change of pace that comes with them,” says Marci Spencer, co-owner of Pond Hill Farm. “When the snow comes, Harbor Springs becomes like a Norman Rockwell painting.” (On that note, the Hallmark Channel has been known to set up a live webcam trained on the Christmas tree in downtown Harbor Springs.) Since the area gets its elevation from bluffs and hills rather than alpine peaks, the groomed slopes at nearby ski hills like The Highlands, Nub’s Nob, and Boyne Mountain are ideal for cross-country, snowshoeing, or downhill runs up to 1.25 miles long — Lois Lane to North Peak Pass at Boyne Highlands is the lengthiest in Michigan.

Where to Shop

Huzza

What originated in the late 1970s as a bazaar of uncommon global imports has evolved into an exquisite curation of modern heirlooms, still uncommon and still sourced from all over the world. Here, it’s not about the labels as much as craftsmanship, authenticity, and high aesthetics. Look no further for Peruvian hand-knit sweaters, loomed pillows from Mexico, one-of-a-kind contemporary Greek ceramics, hand-carved wood bowls made from salvaged walnut trees, and leather saddle chairs from Belgian designer Michaël Verheyden. “They’re my current obsession,” says shop owner Tobin MacCready.

Tvedten Fine Art

Proving that the Harbor Springs artistic community is alive and well, this art gallery — located in a poppy-hued former garage and stable for the hearse and horses that belonged to a neighboring funeral home a century ago — showcases wall-to-wall works for sale by many local artists. This homegrown contingent includes owner Margaret Tvedten (fantasy oil paintings), DeeAnne Wagner (beach frolic translated to oils-on-paper), and Rick Ford (realistic nature scenes in oil or graphite).

Best Time to Go

Though locals espouse the wonders of all four seasons, even they can’t deny that Harbor Springs flourishes in summer, when temperatures peak in the high 70s, the lake has reached jewel-like clarity and color, verdant forests and meadows rustle in a cool onshore breeze, and the general ambience is flag-wavingly, Aperol-spritzingly, swimsuitingly festive.

How to Get There

“Harbor Springs is hard to get to, but as locals we like it that way,” says Tvedten. “It preserves the quiet.” The West Michigan Pike has been the premier leisure route from Chicago to Harbor Springs since the early 1900s, and it’s still a popular way to arrive by car. If arriving by plane, take a 70-minute Delta connection from Detroit Metropolitan (DTW) to Pellston Regional (PLN) — there are up to three arrivals daily. Then it’s a 30-minute drive to Harbor Springs. You’ll want to pick up a rental car at the airport from Budget or Avis, but bear in mind that their shared service counter closes at 4 p.m. Not to worry — if you book ahead, attendants will place your car keys in a lockbox and send you a code to access. This is the best option, since rideshare apps don’t exist here and public transportation is spotty.

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