America’s Best Small Beach Town Has World-class Waves — Plus Delicious Restaurants and Charming Boutiques
Pa‘ia, Maui has long been known for great surf, but now it's emerged as the island’s coolest hub for shopping, art, and food.
Perfect year-round temperatures. Warm waters. Rainbow-splashed skies. Endless stretches of sand in every imaginable color. Hawaii may be far (2,400 miles from the mainland U.S.), but once you visit its beaches, it’s hard to resist the pull back. Of the eight major islands, Maui, stands apart with its mix of ritzy resort-lined sugary shores and historic beach towns imbued with genuine aloha spirit. The old town of Lahaina, Maui’s tourism beacon, was reduced to ash by wildfires in 2023. As its waterfront rebuilds, the spotlight has shifted to Pa‘ia, a former plantation town on Maui’s North Shore just a ten-minute drive from the airport.
Barely 7.5 square miles, the bohemian town is hugged by a string of golden, crescent beaches fringed by swaying palms and almost always dotted with lazing sea turtles. Families love the calm, protected lagoon at Baby Beach, tucked away at the western end of Baldwin Beach Park, exhibitionists bask in the sun on clothing optional Secret Beach, and the sporty set come here from around the globe to surf, kitesurf, windsurf, and wingfoil at beaches like Tavares and Ho’okipa. Even if you don’t surf, the bluff above Ho’okipa Beach offers the island’s best seat to watch the sun melt into the craggy ridges of the West Maui Mountains.
The town itself has an indie spirit, full of mom-and-pop shops and locally-owned boutiques that showcase the island’s most talented makers. “Over the years Pa‘ia got touristy and there’s been a shift to make town feel local again,” says Isabella Dominick Pickering, who recently took over Cafe Mambo. “The other day someone referred to the row of businesses along where our cafe is as the 'Rodeo Drive of Pa‘ia.'” Town may feel more upscale, but don’t worry, Pa‘ia hasn’t lost its barefoot, beach vibes that locals — and visitors — love.
Why Pa‘ia Is the Best Beach Town in the U.S. for 2024
In the last year, the town has undergone a renaissance fueled by fresh local businesses and a community-minded mentality. The kitschy souvenir and trinket shops that catered to tourists have been replaced with locally-run boutiques. Plus, a new crop of restaurants and cafes are supporting local farmers and artisans, while turning out stellar food and drinks.
Where to Stay
Mangolani Inn
Fresh off a massive renovation, Mangolani Inn is the top spot to stay in town, with three studios and a three-bedroom house. The tropical grounds feature a hot tub, barbecue, and outdoor dining areas. Owner Dave Stein shares insider intel on everything from the best spots for breakfast (Cafe Mambo) to the best beach for sunset (Baldwin).
Related: Our Readers' Favorite Resorts in Hawaii of 2024
The Inn at Mama’s Fish House
Mama’s Fish House is the toughest reservation on the island. But few people know that 12 studio one-and two-bedroom cottages are sprinkled around the oceanfront restaurant. Guests get preferred reservations, says owner Karen Christenson. “And if you think the view is good at dinner, wait until you wake up on the North Shore,” she says. “Early morning is magical.”
Paia Inn
The Paia Inn is the sole boutique stay in a town devoid of big brand hotels and resorts. Conveniently situated in the heart of town and the inn’s 15 rooms range from petite studios to a three-bedroom beach house exactly 45 steps from the sand. Request a beach-facing room to avoid the street noise from the Hana Highway. The onsite restaurant, Vana, serves pristine sushi and creative cocktails. And the hotel is a few minutes walk to the excellent coffee at Belle Surf Cafe.
Things to Do
Catch a Wave at Ho’okipa Beach Park
"It can be said that Ho’okipa Beach Park is a microcosm of the greater island of Maui,” says artist and kitesurf pioneer Pete Cabrinha. “It’s an extremely diverse community. Virtually every type of surfing sport can be seen between two rock points that bracket a consequential playing field, all coexisting with a familiarity and respect for each other; a scenario you are not likely to experience at any other surf break in the world.”
Experienced ocean athletes can rent windsurfing equipment or surfboards in town at Hi-Tech Sports and paddle out. An upper level parking area provides an excellent view of the action and is a dreamy spot to catch sunset, while the beach below is home to one of the largest congregations of sea turtles along with Ho‘okipa’s resident monk seal.
“Ho’okipa is my church,” says windsurfing champion Sarah Hauser. “I recharge my spirit while watching the sunset, swimming around the bay or connecting with my ocean community on the beach.”
Related: This Is the No. 1 Surf Destination in the World
Walk Baldwin Beach Park
Rise early on a Sunday morning, and you’ll see dozens of locals walking the nearly mile-long stretch of sand at Baldwin Beach Park and swimming laps in the calm waters on the west end known as Baby Beach. That protected cove is a favorite for families while the east end, known as Baldwin Cove, attracts a younger crowd who gather around drum circles or play volleyball. The mid-section of the beach has a serious shorebreak, making it perfect for body surfing and bodyboarding. Picnic tables, showers, bathrooms, and lifeguards make it popular with locals and visitors alike, but it’s long enough that it rarely feels crowded. Just give space to the resident turtles that are known to snooze on the shore.
Rent a Bike
Tucked away next to Belle Surf Cafe, Maui Cyclery rents top-of-the-line Cervėlo bikes, as well as mountain bikes. Owner and former racer Donnie Arnoult personally leads rides around the island. If you want a challenge, he’ll guide you from the shop to the top of Haleakala, a climb of 10,000-plus feet over 36 miles. “For something more mellow, I like exploring the backroads of Kula and taking clients past the winery and then stopping for banana bread at Grandma’s Coffee House.”
Say Namaste
Pa‘ia's hippie soul shines on at the Maui Yoga and Dance Shala. Nestled within the former historic Paia Train Depot, about one mile up Baldwin Avenue, the studio offers drop-in classes ranging from gentle flow to belly dancing and also hosts teacher trainings, and special events, like cacao ceremonies and sound healing sessions. After a class, head next door to the studio’s restaurant, Island Fresh Café, for an acai bowl or superfood smoothie or drop by the farm stand in the parking lot and grab some apple bananas, mangos, avocados, and banana bread for the beach.
Where to Shop
Soley Aloha Boutique + Gallery
The trademarked Aloha Shapes logo can be seen on tees and bumper stickers across the island. The brand’s founders, husband-and-wife Stu and Billie Soley, got their start selling hand-screen printed t-shirts and Stu’s photography at the local swap meet. They’ve since moved into a tiny storefront on the Hana Highway. Soley Aloha Boutique + Gallery stocks the brand’s beachy apparel and accessories and also displays and sells Stu’s prints.
Related: 25 Best Beaches in the United States
RueBelle Maui Paris
RueBelle Maui Paris is a den of cool. This new atelier set within the historic Hew Building on the Hana Highway still retains traces of the space’s past life as a restaurant. In the shop window you’ll see an old menu announcing saimin for 40 cents alongside Tahitian lauhala papale (woven straw hats) and the owner’s signature handmade, silk flower earrings. Inside, vintage finds like retro shades, are displayed alongside artwork and hand-carved mother of pearl jewelry in island-inspired shapes like plumeria. Old dining tables beckon customers to sit and daydream.
Paia Floral
You can’t miss the brightly colored blooms on display at family-run Paia Floral. This darling shop debuted in February and sells locally harvested, native plants and flowers, like ruby red torch ginger and cherry-hued heliconias. “We wanted to support local farmers but also educate people about native plants and how they connect to our culture,” says owner Mya Ige. “We also created a hula section for the community.” Customers are encouraged to build their own bouquet or lei from pre-cut flowers displayed on shelves. The shop also hosts lei-making classes at the upcountry flower farms they source from.
Wings Hawaii
There is an undeniable whimsy to Wings Hawaii. Mermaid prints adorn everything from comfy joggers to coffee mugs and koozies and Hawaiian seashells (handpicked by mermaids, of course) have been transformed into beautiful bangles and dangly earrings. Owners and besties Samantha Howard and Melody Torres originally hawked their handmade wares from their college dorm rooms at UH Manoa. After graduating they opened a workshop and retail store in Maui and moved into their current digs in 2018. I love that everything sold at their eco-conscious boutique is crafted by local North Shore artisans using sustainable and upcycled materials.
Acacia
Naomi Newirth, the Maui-born founder of global swimwear brand Acacia, is known for her signature bikinis that blend the classic Brazilian fit with low-cut Italian design. Her gorgeous swimsuits and ready-to-wear pieces are also ethically produced and made from sustainable materials. And each season the brand donates a percentage of every purchase made to a non-profit such as the Hawai’i Food Bank. New collections are introduced at her flagship boutique on Baldwin Avenue, which also stocks exclusive-to-the-shop designs.
Where to Eat and Drink
Cafe Mambo
Growing up on Maui, Dominick Pickering always wanted to run a restaurant and told friends Cafe Mambo, a funky Mexican and Mediterranean-influenced spot on Baldwin Avenue, was her dream space. Her dream became a reality when she purchased the space with her partner Kody Kerbox last October. They’ve kept the name but a head-to-toe makeover of both the space and menu since reopening in March, they’ve become an instant hit with locals. “Most days I know 50 percent of the people in the restaurant,” says Dominick Pickering. “Sundays I know 100 percent.” The constantly changing menu features as many locally-sourced ingredients as possible but the top-seller, the breakfast burrito with habañero jelly, is a staple. Thursday through Sunday they stay open until 7:30 p.m. and serve the best cocktails in town. Try the tomato margarita (when in season) or the olive oil washed vodka martini.
Mama’s Fish House
An island institution, Polynesian-themed, family-run Mama’s Fish House books out months in advance. Christenson’s advice for scoring one of the 42 tables: visit for lunch. “The menu is the same and you can enjoy the beach after,” she says. The restaurant sources directly from local fishermen, whose names are listed on the menu next to their catch. Don’t miss the macadamia nut crusted Hawaiian kampachi stuffed with crab and lobster and be warned, the Mai Tai is delicious, but potent.
Mana Foods
Since opening in 1983, this locally-owned natural grocer has been supplying the community with farm-fresh food. Much of the produce Mana Foods stocks is grown on island, including papayas, avocados, and arugula. There’s also an onsite bakery and deli. The store opens at 8am. and breakfast wraps (choose between tofu or scrambled eggs) typically sell out in 30 minutes. “When we were renovating the restaurant I’d fight people in Mana just to get a breakfast wrap,” says Dominick Pickering.
Paia Fish Market
If you see a line snaked up Baldwin Avenue, it’s customers waiting for a seat at Paia Fish Market. This casual, no-reservations first opened in 1989 and has since spawned outposts in Kihei, on Maui’s South Shore, as well as Oahu. The original space got a much-needed refresh in 2020, but the food hasn’t changed. The fish sandwich is the top seller; choose from ono, mahi, ahi, salmon, or snapper. Ige’s tip for avoiding the line: order online and picnic at the Pa‘ia Bay beach, just a short walk away.
Espresso Mafia
For a small town, Pā'ia has a serious coffee scene with more than a half-dozen options for grabbing a great brew, including Story, Paia Bay Coffee & Bar, and newcomer Ignition Coffee. My personal favorite, Espresso Mafia, started as a family-run food truck in the upcountry town of Makawao. They now have a brick-and-mortar location there but also recently opened an alfresco outpost next to locally-owned leather accessories boutique, Clhei. Beans are sourced from Maui-based Origin Coffee Roasters, and owner Anthony Bianucci pulls an espresso that would make any Italian proud.
The Best Times to Visit
There’s really never a bad time to visit Maui. The North Shore is typically blessed with trade winds during the summer months which keeps Pa‘ia cooler than other island beach towns. September tends to be the quietest month. Winter brings waves. “The energy is different in winter,” says Kerbox, a local waterman. “You can smell the salt in the air. There’s no wind. All of the surfers are excited anticipating the next swell.”
How to Get There
Multiple airlines, including United Airlines and Southwest Airlines, fly direct from major mainland hubs to Maui’s Kahului Airport (OGG). From the airport, it’s just over a six-mile drive to the town of Pa‘ia. You can use Uber to get to town and Pa‘ia has a great bike path, but if you plan to explore beyond the North Shore you’ll want to rent a car.
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