I Went on a Safari in Botswana With a Female Guide — Here’s Why It Made All the Difference

This African company is breaking down barriers for women in the safari industry — here's how.

In search of the big five, I stumbled upon the rarest sight of all: a female safari guide. “What’s the biggest obstacle for women who want to become safari guides in Africa?” I asked Sharon Mohlambi, our guide in training, as we watched a pack of lions decide whether or not they have the energy to go after a herd of impala. Mohlambi smiled, a big, warm grin that cut through the chill that had begun to descend on the bush now that the sun was setting. “Not having a driver’s license,” said Mohlambi, going on to explain that many families simply don’t see the point in training their daughters to drive, and a license is a firm prerequisite to becoming a safari guide. “In Africa, sometimes a license can bring almost as much freedom for a woman as an education,” she added.

My friends and I had come to Botswana’s newest camp, Khwai Lediba, hoping to see the big five, but what we found was a much bigger prize: a safari company set on breaking down barriers for women in the guide industry. Khwai Lediba is one of 17 from African Bush Camps (ABC), an organization founded and run by Zimbabwe-born, guide-turned-business owner Beks Ndlovu. ABC launched a nonprofit foundation in 2006, with the goal of empowering local communities through a variety of health care, education, and conservation initiatives. While the foundation has been involved in dozens of programs over the years, its newest empowerment project is the Female Guide Program.

Launched in 2021, the program’s key objective is to graduate 25 female guides by 2025. Each year, five applicants are chosen to participate in a two-year training and internship program.

Participants undergo practical and theoretical in-class training at the African Guide Academy. Upon successfully completing the courses, they can then begin on-the-job training through rotations at various African Bush Camps. The women will also learn additional skills like mokoro guiding (on a traditional dugout canoe) and walk guiding.

The program was introduced to help remediate what Ndlovu saw as a major issue in the safari industry: the lack of female guides. “By nurturing and empowering female guides, we challenge traditional norms and enrich the safari experience with new perspectives, expertise, and a unique connection to our beautiful landscapes,” explained Ndlovu. “This initiative is not just about breaking barriers; it's about creating a harmonious blend of skills, passions, and a deep understanding of our rich African heritage. Together, we pave the way for a future where the wild welcomes everyone and where women are an integral part of the African safari narrative.”

Related: As a Black American Who Had Never Been on Safari, I Had Doubts — but a Trip to Zambia Changed My Mind

In just two years since its launch, the program’s popularity has skyrocketed. “The first year we started the program, we had 90 applicants,” explained Sylvia Zhiwatse Zulu-Mwelwa, ABC’s assistant operations manager. “This year, we’ve had more than 200. Clearly, there is a tremendous need for the program. African women want a chance to show what they can do and are willing to work hard to [prove] they deserve the same career options as men. We try to make the program as accessible as possible. No experience is needed. We only only that applicants have finished grade 12, can speak English, and can drive. Unfortunately, even those few qualifications are hard for many to meet. Sadly, we have to turn down most applicants, but it would be great to see initiatives like this grow throughout the safari industry. Women are one of Africa’s best but most underappreciated resources.”

My friends and I certainly felt appreciation for Mohlambi. Her guiding skills led us to incredible sightings, including a pair of lions chasing a herd of kudu, a pod of hippos sunning themselves, and dozens of elephants enjoying a mud bath. “The ellies are my favorite,” she said. “Ridiculous and beautiful looking at the same time, you can’t help but be charmed by them. They’re one of the reasons I decided to be a guide. Animals and nature always interested me, and I enjoyed driving, so guiding seemed the perfect fit.”

“Stop here, please, Mohlambi” said Dutch, one of the head guides at Khwai Lediba. Dutch was sitting at the back of the Land Cruiser with my friends and me. Part of Mohlambi’s training is to drive and lead on her own, under a senior guide’s watchful gaze. Dutch only interrupted occasionally to test Mohlambi’s knowledge or offer helpful tips. “Now, Mohlambi, what are those tracks to the left of the vehicle?” Dutch asked with an encouraging smile.

Mohlambi got out of the vehicle and kneeled down to inspect the tracks. She bit the side of her lips, and for a moment, I feared she didn’t know the answer. But I shouldn’t have worried. What looked like little more than an amorphous blob was, to Mohlambi, a code that she was now well-equipped to crack. “These are wild dog tracks. They were headed north,” she said. Dutch nodded in approval and then added, “Old or recent?” This time, Mohlambi didn’t pause. “Old. Their outline is starting to dull and there are yellow-billed hornbill tracks running through them that are much fresher.” Dutch said, “Very good.”

As Mohlambi got back in the vehicle to continue our drive, Dutch whispered to us: “She’s going to be an excellent guide. She’s got the bush in her blood — just like the rest of us. Woman or man, what matters for a guide is passion for the bush and the joy you get when you can educate and share that love with others.”

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