Undercover Women’s RTW Fall 2023
When an outfit in a Damier-like brown checkerboard pattern appeared on Undercover’s fall runway, people lifted their smartphones and started Googling the name that appeared amid the squares: Manuel Göttsching, the Krautrock musician whose album “E2 E4” was considered a defining moment of ’80s electronica.
Others snapped photos of the lines embroidered on the back of tailored jackets, to read and research later. (It was lyrics from “Enjoy Yourself,” by The Specials, released in 1980.)
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This was a busy, eclectic collection that pinged between rockabilly, punk, emo, and a bit of midcentury couture — with a few eye-catching items in between.
Jun Takahashi opened his display with boyish, lustrous pantsuits in jewel tones, a bony, embroidered hand gripping the shoulder of the first exit. The backs of these suits displayed intricate jacquard scenes and either floral embroideries or more verbiage.
The Grinch-y hands later mingled with roses scattered over camel overcoats and bomber jackets — classic meets borderline creepy.
There were padded raincoats, apparently a collaboration with Japanese brand Fragments, which was spelled out on the back in yet more embroidered lettering.
Later came dalliances with leopard prints, done up in monotone, and more checkerboard prints for the finale. Balaclavas with Batman ears seemed like the item to get.
Launch Gallery: Undercover RTW Fall 2023
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