Traction alopecia: everything you need to know
Are you a big fan of a snatched pony à la Ariana Grande, or do you braid your hair in the name of 'protective styling' frequently? Maybe you love to rock a wig, or regularly blow-dry your hair straight. Either way, if you’ve started to notice your hairline receding it may be time to rethink your styling practices before traction alopecia takes hold for good.
If you've heard of traction alopecia before but were unsure how it differs from other types of alopecia, or how it starts this is the guide for you...
What is traction alopecia?
A form of hair loss caused by prolonged pulling of the hair, “traction alopecia presents as thinning or complete loss of hair generally on the hairline and temples. But it can affect anywhere on the scalp, where there is tension,” shares consultant dermatologist doctor Sharon Belmo. You might also notice the development of pimples, redness, itching, dryness and sensitivity of the scalp too.
Surprisingly, despite looking after my locks, by way of regular treatments, and daily supplements, a few years ago I started to notice thinning around my hairline, which progressed until around an inch of my hair completely disappeared.
At first, I wondered if I had frontal fibrosing alopecia, as this is a form of hair loss that presents as a receding hairline. But, after seeing a dermatologist I discovered that I had developed traction alopecia and my mind was blown. Turns out that years of blow-drying my 3c curls into submission, putting my hair up into a neat bun when I didn’t have the time to refresh my curls, and French plaiting my hair, were just too much for my edges to handle.
Who can traction alopecia affect?
“Clients are often surprised that they have developed traction alopecia, but it’s more common than you think especially for those with finer hair,” reveals stylist and hair extension expert Inanch Emir. Not only do I have fine hair but those of us with curly, and afro-textured hair are also more suspectable to the condition. Partially “due to cultural hair styling practices,” says Belmo, but also because textured hair tends to be drier and thus more fragile.
However, while traction alopecia is prevalent amongst Black women, “any hairstyle that causes tension at the root, think tight ponytails, tight buns, head wraps, religious head coverings, braids, weaves, wigs, wig caps, locs, and even satin bonnets rubbing on the hairline at night, can all cause tension at the root and lead to hair loss,” adds Belmo.
Is traction alopecia permanent?
The good news is that if you catch it early and are prepared to change your styling habits this form of alopecia can be reversed. However, “it can’t be rectified after long-term tension, as this generally leads to the permanent ‘death’ of your follicles, meaning hair is no longer able to grow back,” explains Belmo. This is what is known as scarring alopecia, which leaves areas totally devoid of hair and looking smooth and shiny.
Can traction alopecia be avoided?
To avoid permanent hair loss, styling changes have to be made, but that’s easier said than done. It took me ages to figure out how to style my hair without any tension. Emir recommended I wear my hair down as much as possible. But it wasn’t until I found the Innersense I Create Lift Volumizing Foam, £26, and the Innersense Inner Peace Whipped Crème Texturiser, £22, to help define and hold my curls in place (even after sleeping) that I was able to avoid having to put my hair up on day two post wash.
If I did occasionally want or need to wear my hair up, Emir advised I try a loose low pony or bun. “Don’t pull the hair back and definitely don’t set it in place with gel as this creates even more tension,” stresses Emir. “Instead reduce the tension at the hairline by taking the front section of your hair, parting it at the centre, then loosely curling both sections with a heated tool. Or get a fringe cut in, as this is a great option to help disguise traction alopecia, reduce tension and give the hair time to grow back,” she adds.
The aim is to be as gentle as possible with your hair. I’ve also had to wave goodbye to weekly blow-dries and only straighten my hair occasionally. Belmo stresses that “tight braids should be totally avoided too, and if you can’t go without extensions, wigs or weaves try to ensure your stylist does not install them tightly or painfully, and in a way that puts the least amount of tension on your hairline as possible.”
Can you reverse the damage of traction alopecia?
Aside from gentle styling practices that press pause on tension and allow your hair to return to its former glory, there are a host of treatments to try too.
Supplements
Healthy hair growth is influenced by several factors, like how well you eat, whether your hormones are balanced, your overall health and even how stressed you are. However, according to Belmo, “supplements can help stimulate growth by providing an optimal environment for hair growth.” Vitamin D, zinc, iron and B vitamins are the gold standard when it comes to healthy hair. But one supplement is currently taking the hair growth market by storm, and that’s the humble pea shoot.
Scientists have discovered that it offers a beneficial source of vitamins and minerals – and is abundant in hair-supportive nutrients like biotin. Cue the Vida Glow Hairology Capsules, £45, which contain AnaGain, an extract derived from organic pea sprouts that are proven to boost growth, reduce hair loss and strengthen tresses too.
Platelet-rich plasma (PRP) injections
Kim Kardashian posts about this injectable went viral, while her sister Kourtney let cameras film her getting the treatment to treat her hair loss. As the name suggests platelet-rich plasma injections also known as PRP, are made up of growth factor-packed plasma. What’s unique about this injectable is that the plasma is taken directly from your own blood. “When injected into the scalp these growth factors stimulate the hair follicles to kick start growth and prevent further hair loss,” explains Belmo. Just three-monthly sessions can yield impressive results, which is why this treatment is being offered by dermatologists, trichologists, and aesthetic doctors alike.
Medication
When it comes to medical treatments, “topical and injectable steroids or antibiotics are sometimes prescribed by dermatologists to reduce inflammation that may occur as a result of developing traction alopecia,” shares Belmo. In my experience the use of over-the-counter or prescription minoxidil is generally advised alongside any hair styling changes as, “minoxidil can stimulate growth by thickening thinning hairs and prolonging their growth phase,” explains Belmo.
Hair transplants as a fix for alopecia
If like me, you’ve not been able to catch your traction alopecia early and there are areas where no amount of coaxing will bring your hair back, all is not lost. I opted for hair transplant surgery to restore my edges. This is a procedure that takes healthy follicles from the back of your head and implants them where needed. Success rates are high as “when it comes to hair transplant surgery the most compatible forms of hair loss are androgenetic alopecia (a genetic disorder), and irreversible traction alopecia,” explains my hair transplant surgeon doctor Christopher D’Souza.
Alternately, hair fibres can be sprinkled onto the hairline to disguise thinning and conceal bald patches. Or for a more semi-permanent option Emir favours hair replacement systems. She offers the CNC hair replacement system at her salon. “It’s the latest innovation in non-surgical hair restoration, incorporating a medical-grade prosthesis that covers the part of the scalp where you’ve experienced hair loss. Designed to look completely natural and utterly undetectable, it’s made to measure, doesn’t damage your existing hair, and lasts around 18 months with adjustments every 4-6 weeks,” shares Emir.
So, whatever stage you find yourself at, there is always something that can be done about traction alopecia – as long as you’re prepared to be gentler with your hair going forward.
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