A Top NYC Dermatologist Answers All Your Summer Skincare Questions
Skincare is a tricky business. It’s important for our health but more often than not it can be feel like a chore, an over complicated series of steps that seems to suck up more time than it needs to. And summer skincare? Forget it. The last thing on our minds during beach season is protection. Achieving the perfect tan is much higher on the list of priorities. Yet, it’s during summer that our skin is most exposed and vulnerable. The regimen that worked in spring, not to mention winter, is not in anyone’s interest in these months of record-breaking high temperatures. One skincare routine, we tend to forget, does not work for all seasons. To make matters worse, there are as many best practices around summer beauty as there are misconceptions. For instance, how often are we supposed to reapply sunscreen? And is it OK to use retinol during this sweaty stretch? And is there any value to refrigerating cosmetic products or does it just feel good? To answer these and every other question you’ve ever had about summer skincare, we called on New York City dermatologist Dr. Marnie Nussbaum, an alumnus of Cornell University and Weill Cornell Medical College, where today she teaches as a clinical instructor of dermatology in addition to her own private practice in Manhattan. With her advice and some product recommendations, you can go back to tanning—with moderation, anyway, and gobs of sunscreen.
Let's start with sunscreen. Why is it so important that we reapply every two hours?
Sunscreen is only effective for a finite amount of time. The UV filters (whether physical or chemical) start breaking down when exposed to light, air and other environmental factors, particularly if you sweat or get wet. Therefore, we recommend always applying it 15 minutes prior to going outside and reapplying every 2 hours or sooner if you get wet or sweat.
What qualities should we look for in summer suncreens?
Always look for a product that says "broad spectrum," which, means that it protects against both UVA and UVB rays. Overexposure to either can lead to skin cancer. UVA rays can pass through glass and both can pass through clouds and reflect back from water, sand and snow. I always recommend mineral based sunscreens which are physical blockers and more photo-stable. Key ingredients to look for are zinc and/or titanium dioxide. These mineral sunscreens protect the skin like a shield and block the UV rays by deflecting them, and the newer generation does not leave a thick, white cast. Other labels to look for are "water resistant." No sunscreen is waterproof or sweatproof. They are tested for water resistance and usually protect for either 40 or 80 minutes. Therefore, be cognizant how long you are in the water. If a product does not have this label, assume there is no protection from water or sweat. And lastly, always look for a sunscreen that is SPF 30 or higher. The higher the number, the more protection.
What are some of your favorite sunscreen products, for face and body?
I love EltaMD UV Clear Broad Spectrum SPF 46 for the face because it contains transparent zinc as well as niacinamide and sodium hyaluronate to moisturize and protect the skin. My top body sunscreens include Supergoop PLAY 100 percent Mineral Body Mist SPF 30 with Marigold Extract, which is 80-minute water resistant and reef-friendly. It's a lightweight zinc, which sprays on white, however blends to sheer on all skin tones. It also is super nourishing with marigold, sunflower seed and chamomile. I also love La Roche Posay Anthelios Sunscreen SPF 50 as it is a mineral based, lightweight lotion that contains vitamin E, herbal extracts and antioxidants for anti-inflammatory benefits. Lastly, Neutrogena Pure and Free Baby Mineral Sunscreen SPF 50 is great for babies 6 months and older as it is mineral based, hypoallergenic and tested for efficacy. I always say the best sunscreen is the one you will use as consistency is key to protection. Creams are better for dry skin and the face. Gels for hairy areas such as male chest, back and scalp. Sprays are great as they cover lots of area, though make sure not to inhale the sprays. I recommend spraying the product in your hand and then applying if a windy day. I really love sprays that are visible upon application then blend into sheerness.
Incidentally, what else are we getting wrong about our summer skincare routine?
Skincare needs change drastically from winter to summer. First and foremost, we are producing more oils and our pores are much more prone to getting clogged. Therefore, we need to shift from our heavier creams and ointments to more lightweight lotions, gels and serums. Many individuals think we should be exfoliating more to get that summer glow and glistening legs. However, over exfoliating during the summer months can lead to severe irritation and microtears in the skin. I recommend exfoliating once or twice a week max in the summer. Exfoliating on sun-exposed skin will result in further redness and irritation. Lastly, many people think they don’t need to moisturize during the summer because they are producing more oil. Wrong! The sun saps the skin of its natural moisture. Therefore, hydration is key for the skin to protect itself and repair itself.
For readers with children, what are some good family skincare tips?
I am a dermatologist and a mother of two red-headed children. This is a major challenge as red heads burn fast and easily. I have made it my mission to find the best sunscreens (face and body) that they like and I approve. Including your children in the process of finding which formulation feels best to them will improve compliance and protection. The best sunscreen is the one they will wear. Therefore, no matter what, make sure they like the formulation so you don’t have to beg them in front of all your friends to reapply. Sticks are great for the face, while I recommend non-aerosol sprays for the body. There are certain sprays where you can see them when you spray on the body (so you can see what areas you missed) but then rub in nicely. Lastly, teach them total sun protection including rash guards, wide brimmed hats, sunglasses and staying in the shade. Also, teach your children that even on rainy or cold days, the suns UV rays are still affecting their skin, which is why daily sunscreen is so important.
In general, how much sun should be getting anyway?
The American Academy of Dermatology maintains that there is no safe amount of sun due to the fact that unprotected exposure to UV rays from the sun is a known risk factor for skin cancer, including melanoma, the deadliest form of skin cancer. The AAD recommends getting your Vitamin D from a healthy diet, including food rich in vitamin D, foods fortified with vitamin D and/or vitamin D supplements. Lastly, it goes without saying that tanning beds are an absolute no-no. The U.S. Department of Health and Human Services has declared that any UV radiation from the sun and any artificial sources like tanning beds are to be established as known carcinogens. Indoor tanning drastically increases your incidence of melanoma and all forms of skin cancer by 75 percent.
Are there pros/cons to bronzers? And fake tans for that matter?
While sunless tanning in the form of self-tanning lotions or spray tans are certainly safer than traditional tanning they do not come without risk. My motto is “Love the skin you are in” and to be brutally honest I am as pale as they come. However, if you insist on getting a sunless tan I recommend the lotions and drops over the spray tans. Most of these products contain dihydroxyacetone (DHA) which will stain the outmost layer of the skin. However, if you still prefer the spray tans, you must be vigilant to protect your mouth and nose so you don’t inhale the DHA. Studies have shown that DHA can enter the bloodstream and can cause adverse events, including increasing the risk of cancer. If you are engaging in sunless tanning, do so in small doses.
Tell me about Vitamin C serums. I've been told they're especially important during the summer.
Vitamin C serums are vital year round but they're important during the summer because in addition to preventing free radical damage and helping the skin repair itself, they decrease fine lines, prevent dreaded hyperpigmentation and even boost collagen production (the sun is known to break down collagen and elastin, leading to wrinkles and sagging). I always recommend using a good vitamin C serum in the morning after cleansing and prior to moisturizing and sunscreen.
What if we're considering any cosmetic procedures, like peels or Fraxel. Should we wait until fall?
Depends on the procedure. There are many light peels and mild lasers we can do in the summer months that with a few days of a wide-brimmed hat and sun protection are just fine. However, for more harsher treatments that require downtime, such as Fraxel, I would opt for September. Also, you know yourself best. If you will be a good patient and stay out of the sun for a few days (while wearing sunscreen and a hat for even errands), these lighter global procedures can be done. However, if you know you are not going to be a good pupil, better off waiting.
Are there other products we should keep handy during these months, or, better yet, bring to the beach?
Wide-brimmed hats, rash guards, large Jackie-O sunglasses (my fave) and sunscreen are summer essentials everywhere you go. However, many people forget their lips! People don’t realize that lip protection is vital as lips do not contain melanocytes to protect them against the sun and are extremely vulnerable to sun damage. I highly recommend an SPF 30 mineral-based lip balm applied often and regularly. Lastly, if you get sunburned, take an anti-inflammatory like ibuprofen or aspirin immediately to decrease inflammation. Next, take a cool bath so that the heat dissipates from the body to the water cooling the skin. Then apply a soothing lotion containing aloe and/or mild hydrocortisone to further decrease inflammation and discomfort. Blisters may need wound care. Drink lots and lots of water if sunburned to maintain hydration. Don’t forget, more than 5 sunburns in your lifetime doubles your risk of melanoma the deadly form of skin cancer.
And there products that we use during other seasons that we should avoid during the summer, like retinol?
It is a myth that retinol cannot be used in the summer. However, if your skin is irritated or burned retinol can further irritate and cause inflammation. Therefore, only use retinol in the summer if you are going to protect your skin with sunscreen and moisturizer. The same goes for any harsher ingredients, like salicylic acid, glycolic acid and even exfoliators.
Someone told me it's a good idea to refrigerate SPF creams and moisturizers during the summer. Is that another myth or are there actual benefits?
While SPF creams should stay in a cool, dry area, I don’t think you need to store them in the refrigerator. Some say refrigerating them may extend the shelf-life. However, if you use something out of the refrigerator it must be returned immediately as products can separate out when there are temperature fluctuations. That being said, certain eye creams and moisturizers may feel amazing on your skin when coming out of the fridge, especially for rosacea patients as they can immediately calm the skin and provide relief. However, it is essential to check the ingredients prior to placing a product in the refrigerator as any oil-based products such as coconut oil could turn to solid.
Now that we've covered all the products we should have handy. Let's play devil's advocate: Should we just simplify our skincare routine during the summer?
I always tell my patient a simplified, streamlined routine is best for everyone but especially in the summer. The heat and humidity make it difficult for tons of layers of skincare to not only stay on the skin let alone penetrate the skin. Therefore, lighten up your routine with thinner products. In other words, lotions instead of creams, gels or serums instead of lotions. And try products that multitask, like a sunscreen that contains moisturizer as well as antioxidants for further protection. Any make-up worn should be non-comedogenic so that your pores stay clear. Certain facial sunscreens even come tinted with a moisturizer and an antioxidant. That’s what the kids call #skingoals.
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