Sushi: You're Eating It Wrong
Though this might come as a surprise, any sushi chef worth his toro will tell you that the most important component of sushi is rice, not fish. And that's because if a chef's rice is off in any way, or not seasoned property, the entire meal will be thrown askew. Those pressed grains serve as the platform to elevate fish – ruin the rice and all bets are off.
Think about rice to sushi as dough is to pizza: if your dough is no good, the pizza is no good, regardless how excellent its toppings. While sushi is considered one of the highest forms of Japanese culinary art, here in the US, we often go about eating it improperly. Is there rice floating in your soy sauce dish? Is your mackerel draped with ginger? Read on.
But wait, let's rewind for a second. Sushi – what is sushi? Sushi is a word that represents the category of Japanese foods which consist of cooked, seasoned rice served with fish, meat, vegetables, or other ingredients. That group of dishes includes maki rolls, nigiri (individual mounds of rice topped with other ingredients), chirashi (a bowl of seasoned rice topped with a variety of ingredients), inari (deep-fried tofu skin stuffed with seasoned rice), and finally oshi sushi, which you've probably never encountered. This is an old style of sushi in which rice is arranged in a rectangular box, a topping is added, followed by a second layer of rice, and another topping. The whole thing is pressed together, then sliced into bite-sized rectangles. And, for the record, sashimi isn't sushi since it doesn't involve rice.
Oshi sushi.
When you go out for sushi, you have two dining options, which will ultimately yield wildly different experiences. You either go to a sushi spot and nab a table, or you choose to sit at the bar. The difference is, usually, when you sit at a table, you can order whatever you want a la carte. But when you're at the bar, you sit in front of a chef and he decides your meal based on what's best that day.
In the world of sushi, some unsaid rules exist when it comes to sitting at a bar or chef's counter – an experience known as omakase – the Japanese word that translates to leaving the menu in the chef's hands. One of those unsaid rules is that if you're at a top quality sushi bar, the chef will secretly observe you. A great chef will watch your movements, noticed if you are left or right-handed, and pay attention to how much time it takes you to eat each bite, for instance. The surefire way to be served the best-quality fish a chef has is to become a regular, and develop a rapport with that person. At least that's how it's done in Japan. In fact, some sushi bars don't allow new customers to dine unless they come in with a previous customer.
If you're not yet an avid sushi consumer though, your next best bet is to learn proper sushi etiquette to impress the chef. That way he/she will know you're serious about the meal, and that you probably have a discerning palate. The chef will therefore be more inclined to serve you better pieces. Also, acting well-mannered at a sushi bar (more below) serves as a sign of respect in a culture where respect is paramount. Showing that you appreciate the chef's efforts through proper table manner is another way to secure better bites.
During a recent trip to Japan, I had the opportunity to dine at a variety of Tokyo sushi bars, all deemed some of the best in the city. I did indeed nab a seat at the famed Jiro to experience the chef's rapid-fire 35-minute omakase, and I likewise spent a highly enjoyable evening at Sushisho Saito, more of an undercover gem. One of my favorite spots in Tokyo, and one that I'd recommend in a heartbeat, is Sawada, the two Michelin-starred, 6-seat counter place that slices some of the best sushi I've had in my life.
Chef Yuji Imaizumi with the day's catch.
In a city where serious sushi is usually served within a solemn atmosphere, Sushi Sora at the Mandarin Hotel in the Nihonbashi neighborhood of Tokyo, is a welcome reprieve, a place that offers great fish in a slightly more relaxed space. Sora chef Yuji Imaizumi believes that guests should, for the most part, be able to sit at his bar and consume a meal as they see fit, though he does adhere to a few key sushi dining points.
Hands vs. Chopsticks
When you sit down to a sushi bar meal, in front of you is likely a pair of horizontal chopsticks, a cup, and an oshibori – a hot, moist towel neatly rolled up. Use this towel to clean your hands during the meal, but when done, make sure to place it neatly to the side, not crumpled in a ball. In Japan, this will serve as your napkin during the meal.
While I personally like to use my hands to eat nigiri, other diners reach for chopsticks. Imaizumi feels as though either method of transport is correct, and for him it's a matter of place. As in, depending on how high a given sushi bar is, and how far away the nigiri lands (a chef usually places it directly on the sushi bar or on a small plate in front of the guest), that will determine whether it's more comfortable to use one's hands, or swoop in with chopsticks for extra reach. At Sora, chef Imaizumi likes his customers to make this decision on their own based on what's most agreeable.
Ginger, Wasabi, and More
Whether on a small or medium-sized plate, a chef will provide each diner with a stash of pickled ginger, a swipe of wasabi, and maybe some sea grapes. Both the pickled ginger and the sea grapes are meant to be consumed as a palate cleanser between nigiri bites – not piled onto pieces of sushi. Wasabi can be added to pieces of sashimi, or placed atop nigiri – but not mixed into soy sauce. Many omakase bars will pre-lacquer your nigiri, so you won't even have to worry about soy sauce and dipping.
Sea grapes.
On Soy Sauce…
But let's say that a few nigiri pieces are not pre-sauced. Always, always dip your nigiri fish side into the soy sauce, as opposed to dunking the bottom rice part head first. If you dip rice first, too much soy will be absorbed, and overpower the fish's delicate flavor. Also, it's considered bad manners to leave pieces of rice floating in your soy. So, if that happens, slyly scoop them out.
What to Drink?
While Jiro does indeed offer sake with his sushi, he believes that the way sushi should be consumed is only beside a cup of green tea. I like either with my meal, as does chef Imaizumi. As long as you're not trying to drink a strongly flavored beverage like coffee with your meal, you're fine. Also note, that when drinking sake, it's bad luck to pour your own drink! If you are running low, offer some to your dining companion as a hint you need a refill.
The bar at Sushi Sora.
Some Final Words on Counter Dining
Many sushi chefs believe that when dining at a counter, talking should be kept to a minimum. Or at least that those sitting at the bar should pay attention to the nigiri as the chef hands it over. That's because the chef is passing you warm, seasoned rice supporting a freshly cut ocean animal. If you leave that piece sitting on the bar for even 30 seconds, the rice cools off, changing the whole flavor of the bite.
Photos: you probably want to take some. Which is generally fine, just make sure to turn off the flash. It's also in good form to first ask the chef's permission to take photos before snapping away. According to chef Imaizumi, aside from interrupting other guests' dining experience, a bright flash can dull a restaurant's interior design elements. But, more importantly, flash can distract the chef, who could accidentally cut himself while slicing fish. Remember, those sushi knives are sharp!
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