As Some Stores Face Backlash, Others Advance Pride Programs
The decisions aren’t easy ones, there’s always some opposition, and the backlash is mounting.
Yet retailers and fashion brands, in many cases, continue to stand up for what they believe in — supporting Pride — although perhaps not to the degree they did last year when many touted their efforts with public relations to more widely publicize their efforts. Nevertheless, this year’s Initiatives come in the form of window displays, social media posts, rainbow-colored merchandise, and donations to such organizations as The Trevor Project and the Stonewall Inn Gives Back Initiative, even amid the Target controversy dominating the media just ahead of Pride month.
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“Given the environment we are in right now from a legislative standpoint, and the seemingly regressive place we are in right now in the country, it’s even more important for us to show up this year and be visibly and vocally supportive of the community,” said Donna Dozier Gordon, head of inclusion and diversity for H&M’s Americas region. The retailer’s Pride-related planning really picked up in the past six to eight months….”We recognize this as a key element in being a company that is committed to diversity and inclusion.”
Embracing and engaging “all historically underrepresented and marginalized groups” is something that H&M always tries to do,” Dozier Gordon said.
At Saks, the sentiment was similar.
“We are proud to amplify LGBTQ+ voices and continue our ongoing support of the impactful work of the Stonewall Inn Gives Back Initiative,” Emily Essner, chief marketing officer at Saks Inc., said in a statement provided to WWD. “At Saks, we celebrate and recognize all sexual orientations, gender identities and expressions that make up the LGBTQ+ community not only in June, but throughout the entire year. We believe in freedom of self-expression.”
Last month, Target faced a firestorm of controversy and threats of a boycott for introducing swimwear that promoted ”tuck-friendly” construction and “extra crotch” coverage as part of its Pride assortment. Initially in the wake of the backlash, Target chief executive officer Brian Cornell defended the campaign publicly, but then following threats to employees the chain removed what it described as “items that have been at the center of the most significant confrontational behavior.” Other Pride merchandise is still being sold.
But the controversy hasn’t fully subsided. Several Target stores in the Oklahoma City area were temporarily evacuated Saturday afternoon, due to what police officials described as “vague bomb” threats.”
Kohl’s also faced a potential boycott by consumers after the Target controversy. Some consumers took issue with the range of Kohl’s Pride assortment, namely a onesie for infants. Neither executives at Target nor Kohl’s responded to media requests seeking comment on how they’ve been impacted by their Pride-related controversies, or whether any measures were taken in response to threats on some employees.
While they and other major retailers remain committed to the LGBTQ community, increasingly all of these companies — along with a myriad of other corporations — are trying to figure out how best to navigate the culture wars that continue to polarize America. In addition, debate over state laws restricting transition care for minors has heated up, with 16 states having enacted bans or new restrictions on some or all gender-affirming care for minors this year.
Some retailers remain stalwart. “Macy’s annual Pride + Joy campaign is consistent in scope to previous years,” a Macy’s spokeswoman said.
Lululemon featured a rainbow flag in one of its New York City stores and Uniqlo took a similar track with a rainbow-striped heart on its exterior. CVS, meanwhile, used a rainbow-striped heart to adorn $10 Pride pillows in some of its stores. Old Navy has rolled out “Pride for the Family” merchandise for adults, children, toddlers and babies, including such gender-neutral styles as striped rib knit tanks, swim trunks and camp shirts. Uniqlo has been hosting regional shopping events with the LGBTQ community such as one in conjunction with Marsha’s House at its Hudson Yards store in Manhattan, and has donated $15,000 to The Trevor Project and also collecting donations from consumers. However, Uniqlo is not offering any Pride-related merchandise in its 47 domestic stores, nor is H&M in its 500 or so U.S. locations.
With nearly $1.4 trillion spending power on par with Hispanic American, African American and AAPI segments, the LGBTQ community is the fastest-growing minority segment in the U.S., based on 2021 U.S. Census data. Not only is supporting the community vital for equity, it’s necessary for good business, too.
In addition, the percent of U.S. adults who self-identify as lesbian, gay, bisexual, transgender or something other than heterosexual has reached a new high of 7.1 percent, according to a 2022 Gallup poll. That’s double compared to 2012, the first year the poll was taken.
The uptick is largely due to the approximate 21 percent of Gen Z Americans who identify as LGBTQ. That is nearly double the proportion of Millennials who do so, and the gap widens further when compared with older generations, according to the Gallup poll.
One of the hot-button issues in the Target backlash was caused by erroneous reports that the “tuck-friendly” Pride swimwear was for children. The retailer had initially offered select Pride-related merchandise for children. After the media firestorm had subsided, a Target shopper Michael Hoffacker claimed that he and his same-sex partner had recently tried to buy a Pride onesie at a self-service kiosk in the Palm Beach Gardens, Florida, Target store. But “the executive team lead, wearing a shirt showing support for diversity,” refused to sell it to them, according to his Instagram post. Hoffacker did not respond to a request seeking further comment.
H&M boldly wrapped the exterior of one of its Manhattan stores in rainbow and touted “Family is the people who love you, no matter who you love.” The messaging plays upon the retailer’s Pride ad campaign online and via social media accounts. Supporting the LGBTQ community is something H&M is committed to 365 days a year, said Gordon. “When you stand boldly, particularly in the climate right now, you are going to have folks that will either love it, don’t love it, or even hate it. You have to stand firm.”
H&M’s store in Williamsburg shows work by LGBTQ artists and donations are being accepted for the Marsha P. Johnson Institute which supports Black trans youth. H&M has donated to the institute, and to The Trevor Project, a suicide prevention organization for LGBTQ young people.
On June 10, H&M set a new benchmark for the Guinness Book of World Records, by hosting the largest drag brunch. Four hundred and twelve people turned up at the Brooklyn Bowl for the festivities, which included performances by Aquaria, Dragon Sisters and Vena Cava, among other drag artists. The fast-fashion chain has been supporting Pride marches and events around the country. Unlike previous years, H&M is focusing on activations related to Pride instead of Pride collections.
“You’re generally going to have someone upset about whatever decision you make,” said Joe Feldman, a retail analyst at the Telsey Advisory Group. “Corporations are really struggling with what they want to take a stand on, what they should take a stand on, and the perspective they want to present to the public. You’ve seen various ways that they are doing it. Some may prefer not to be political at all and just bury their heads into whatever their businesses are. Others get caught up in things like how Disney got caught up with Gov. Ron DeSantis in Florida. Disney doubled-down and did what they believe is the right thing. Conversely, Budweiser was trying to be more aware of today’s environment and be more open. That backfired. Their stock’s been under pressure. The sales have been under pressure for Bud Light in particular,” even after it pulled its ad featuring transgender influencer Dylan Mulvaney.
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Although Target pulled select Pride products from it stores, Feldman noted the company’s site still highlights Pride merchandise on its home page. Kohl’s also showcases Pride on its home page, which states “Love is our favorite color. Celebrate Pride month.”
Despite the backlash a few retailers have received, mostly on social media, for promoting Pride merchandise, both Saks and Macy’s said they were broadening their Pride-related activities.
Saks has been spotlighting LGBTQ designers on its social channels and Saks.com via interviews with designers Ludovic de Saint Sernin, LaQuan Smith and Prabal Gurung providing perspectives on allyship, self-expression and paving the way forward. Additionally, Saks is presenting looks from LGBTQ designers on Saks.com, continues to support the Stonewall Inn Gives Back Initiative, and sponsored Stonewall’s Annual Pride Kick-Off event on June 1. Saks’ Employee Resource Group Pride@Saks is hosting a “Gender 201” workshop for Saks employees on Thursday, in partnership with Get Phluid facilitators.
Macy’s is staging “Pride + Joy,” an LGBTQ Pride month celebration including an in-store roundup and online donation campaign to benefit The Trevor Project. Funds raised will benefit crisis services, public education, advocacy, research and peer support for LGBTQ youth.
Macy’s is also showcasing exclusive Pride-themed product from LGBTQ-owned brands on macys.com, in stores and on the retailer’s social media channels; supporting local Pride parades including New York City’s Heritage of Pride March on June 25, and hosting activities at select locations. Among the merchandise, there’s exclusive gender-free fashions from The Phluid Project and Non Gender Specific. Macy’s stores in Boston, Chicago, New York City, Philadelphia, San Francisco and Washington, D.C., have been displaying whimsical Pride month displays.
“This June, Macy’s commitment to building a brighter future with bold representation for our customers, colleagues, and communities will be showcased by our LGBTQ representation efforts in celebration of Pride month,” Shawn Outler, Macy’s chief diversity, equity and inclusion officer said in a statement. “For more than a decade we’ve been focused on advancing access to critical services, advocacy and inclusivity for the LGBTQ community. Our partnership with The Trevor Project to support youth mental health, and valued relationships with organizations like the Human Rights Campaign help empower members of the LGBTQ community to be their authentic selves, not only during Pride but year-round.”
Throughout the month, customers can donate online or round up to the nearest dollar their in-store purchase amount thereby donating the extra change, up to 99 cents, to The Trevor Project. Since 2019, the charitable giving campaign has raised more than $5 million.
“The consistent, generous dedication that Macy’s has shown for The Trevor Project’s mission directly supports our work to end suicide among LGBTQ young people,” said Amanda Ryan-Smith, chief development officer at The Trevor Project.
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