This Sprawling Namibian Resort Has Nearly 14,000 Acres to Explore — by Foot, Game Drive, or Horseback

The landscape at Namibia's Zannier Hotel Sonop is otherworldly, with 10 canvas tents set atop massive boulders.

“I can’t believe I complained about the journey to get here,” I told my husband. It was our second day at Zannier Hotels Sonop, located deep in the Namib desert of Namibia, in southern Africa.

We had arrived by road from Windhoek, the capital city, after a six-hour flight from Addis Ababa, Ethiopia. At the airport, our driver met us, and our road trip began. It was nightfall when we finally arrived at Zannier Sonop, too exhausted for anything except a quick dinner and an abbreviated room tour.

It wasn't until the following day that I had a chance to fully appreciate where I was. I was stunned into silence (literally and figuratively) by the vast expanse of arid landscape interspersed with large granite boulders. The silence was only briefly broken by the chirp of a sand-colored bird that I later learned was a Gray’s lark, endemic to the country. The bird’s color helps it stay camouflaged from predators and regulates its temperature by reflecting the sun’s heat.

Late afternoon found my husband and I at the horse stables, where we received an enthusiastic welcome from Austin, who leads the riding excursions. When it came time to select a horse, I picked Angie, a brown-and-white Andalusian.

“Angie is my favorite horse here,” Austin admitted, telling us that she was frequently found in the kitchen, trying to get a snack from the chef. Raised on a farm with horses about an hour from Sonop, his love for the animals was evident. In turn, the horses followed his lead, listening to his commands to slow down (like when Angie broke into a gallop).

Looking out into the vast plains, I truly felt like I was the African version of Beth Dutton in an episode of "Yellowstone" — if it had been shot in an African desert.

Out-of-this-world and possibly once-in-a-lifetime experiences like this draw travelers to Zannier Sonop. It is part of the portfolio of Zannier Hotels, owned by Arnaud Zannier, the son of French designer and entrepreneur Roger Zannier, and although Geraldine Dohogne decorates all Zannier hotels, they retain their individuality. Zannier Sonop takes its inspiration from the 1920s British colonial style, with plinth hats, vintage maps, binoculars, coffee table travel books, and telescopes used to emphasize the era.

Guests who stay at Sonop are well-traveled and have interesting backstories. There was the couple from South Africa who had sold their business and recently moved to a small town in Italy, the Parisians we met while riding who were traveling without their young children for the first time, the family of four who had flown in via a private plane, and the architect and designer couple from Portugal who we dined with at Zannier’s sister hotel, Omanda in Windhoek, the night before we left Namibia. It was the perfect place to be as social as you wanted, but it also gave way to solo downtime. It was one of my favorite types of holidays, giving the option for as many or as few activities as you want.

Here’s what you need to know about Zannier Hotel Sonop.

Zannier Hotel Sonop

• Spacious and private tented rooms with endless views of the surrounding desert.

• The library and connected communal space were my favorite areas to relax and have a sundowner.

• The heated infinity pool was the perfect place to take a dip after a day hiking the dunes. There’s a well-stocked bar, and the staff are attentive.

The Rooms

Our 450-square-foot tented room was a stunner, featuring rolled-up canvas that provided endless views of the surrounding desert. Vintage steamer trunks doubled as decor and a wardrobe, and in an ingenious design, another trunk opened to reveal a freezer stocked with complimentary beverages, including milk for tea or coffee and beer. If we were tempted to get some work done or just relax, there were two seating areas, one with a desk.

The large bathrooms have copper clawfoot tubs with an attached handheld rain shower nozzle. I was pleasantly surprised to find dual vanity stations, which I was extra thankful for when we had a 3 a.m. wake-up call for the dune experience.

There are eight one-room tents and two two-room tents.

Food and Drink

Reservations at Zannier Sonop are booked on a full-board basis. Standard rates include breakfast, lunch, and dinner, with non-alcoholic beverages during meals. Breakfasts are a la carte, with menu items including granola and yogurt, avocado toast, pancakes, and bacon.

Lunch is a lighter affair, with the chef bringing out a platter with various vegetables, salads, pasta, burgers, meat, and more. Although game meat (beef, oryx, zebra) is a staple of Namibian cuisine, pescatarians like my husband were well accommodated.

Dinner is the highlight of the gastronomical experience at Zannier Sonop: A five-course menu that changes daily is served, paired with mostly South African wines. Dinner may be served communal style on a large table, or at smaller tables for two as was the case when we were guests.

Activities and Experiences

With nearly 14,000 acres of private reserve land, guests at Zannier Sonop can explore by electric bike, on foot, or through morning and afternoon guided drives. During this activity, you’ll learn how to spot desert wildlife like beetles, ostriches, and other birds.

For guests looking for a more active experience, choose a horse from the Zannier Sonop stables and go on an afternoon or morning ride.

The hotel also offers Sossusvlei desert experiences for an additional cost. These include climbing the dunes (Dune 45, Big Daddy, or Big Mama) and exploring Dead Vlei. You can also see the desert from the air with a hot-air balloon safari or helicopter tour.

Retire to Sonop and dip in the heated outdoor infinity pool, which has stunning views of the desert. After dinner, enjoy a classic film (offerings include "Out of Africa" and "The Lion King," for instance), which is screened on a large projector in front of the pool. On a clear night, take in the stars through a guided astronomy discovery — Zannier Sonop is in one of the world's 16 designated International Dark Sky Reserves.

The Spa

The spa is next to the pool and features two double treatment rooms with large windows facing the desert landscape. Various treatments, including massages and facials, are offered using organic and natural materials. The signature treatment is the Namibian Touch massage, which uses Namibian salt pearls, myrrh, and marula oils.

The spa also hosts daily yoga and meditation near the pool or at the nearby gym, and private yoga classes are also available. The gym has free weights, barbells, benches, and cardio equipment. After a workout or spa treatment, the staff serves complimentary fruits and beverages.

Family-friendly Offerings

Zannier Sonop does not accept bookings for children under 6 years old due to safety reasons.  Families can book the two-bedroom ensuite tents with a shared dining room.

Accessibility and Sustainability

Built at the top of boulders and with rooms, a spa, and a pool only accessible via a series of steep steps, Zannier Sonop is largely inaccessible to those with mobility issues. Guests are transported to and from the hotel via electric golf carts, and most activities on the property, such as horse riding and e-bike riding, may be challenging for those who require mobility assistance. It is not ADA-compliant.

Regarding sustainability, Sonop’s location in the Namib desert makes water access precious. There are five water holes operated by mechanical pumps. The purchase of water bottles at Zannier Sonop supports Save The Rhinos Trust. There are more than 900 solar panels which provide electricity to the hotel.

Location

To get to Zannier Sonop, travelers can fly into their landing strip via small charter planes. Road transfers from the nearest airport in Windhoek (Hosea Kutako International Airport) can be arranged with the hotel for an added fee. Alternatively, you can rent a car from the international airport for the 300-mile drive from the capital. While a long drive, it’s scenic, with sightings of wild horses roaming the streets of Mariental. Be sure to stop at the Tropic of Capricorn for a quick photo and avoid driving after dark, as there may be wild animals on the roadway.

How to Get the Most Value Out of Your Stay

Rooms are booked on an all-inclusive basis, which includes meals, nonalcoholic beverages, and most activities on the reserve (the dinner on the rocks is an additional fee). To save money on premium alcohol, you may want to bring your own. Nightly rates at Zannier Sonop start around $500.

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