How I Spent 5 Days in Ireland as a Design Editor
"Hearst Magazines and Yahoo may earn commission or revenue on some items through these links."
To visit Ireland is to be immersed in a place infused with poetic sensibility. Even long after you leave, there is a lingering effect of this, spurring the desire for a return trip. From a design outlook, it is a reverence of the land, coupled with a clear-eyed view of history, that makes Ireland such a fascinating place to visit. Learning that public art funding is baked into the infrastructural budget, for example, you begin to understand that you’re in a place that does not take human creativity for granted. There’s evidence of caring attention and stewardship everywhere you look.
I recently had the opportunity to enjoy an Irish city-country experience, spending two nights in Dublin, the capital city, and three in Kenmare, a small town near the southwestern coast in County Kerry. After taking an overnight, five-hour flight via Aer Lingus from NYC to Dublin, I woke up greeted by an unusually bright blue sky, and after a short drive into the city center, I was ready for an Irish design education, encompassing past and present. Should you be lucky enough to be traveling to the Emerald Isle in the near future, here are the points of interest not to miss.
The Accommodations in Dublin
Irish hospitality is an integral part of life—indeed, Brehon law (the societal codes of early medieval Ireland) stated that all households were obliged to welcome strangers passing through. While any number of hotels in Dublin would provide a fine place to hang your hat for a day of adventuring, The Merrion is one that somehow feels both luxurious on the grandest scale and as comfortable as home.
Built in the 1760s, The Merrion was originally a row of four separate townhouses, one of which was the birthplace of Arthur Wellesley, the Duke of Wellington. Now a singular structure, there are plaques in the hallways that denote where one private building ended and another began. Currently boasting 123 bedrooms and 19 suites, The Merrion Hotel opened in October 1997, with its interior redesign helmed by Alice Roden. While it remains faithful to its Georgian-era architecture and decor (and to its residential roots), there have been many subtle, strategic updates to the building in the decades since.
The Merrion’s expansive art collection, for example, provides a fascinating juxtaposition of contemporary-era works in 18th-century surrounds. Comprising about 90 percent Irish artists from all eras, it is the largest private art collection in the country—you’ll feel like you're staying in a museum as you walk its halls and take the air in the property’s two period gardens. I highly recommend that guests take the self-guided tour of the hotel’s artistic centerpieces by requesting a headset and map at the front desk. And you will not want to miss the incredible rococo plasterwork in Mornington Hall—you’ll see a lush, pronounced display of spiraling vines and floral garlands, rendered in stucco originally by Robert West and restored by Seamus O hEocha during the two-year restoration before the hotel’s 1997 opening.
While staying in The Merrion, I felt looked after and never imposed upon. The well-appointed main house Deluxe Room I stayed in was immaculately clean and the bedding cushy. It was only when I opened the tasseled drapes in the morning to see the Department of the Taoiseach (Irish parliament buildings) directly across the street that I felt taken aback by being in such a rarified space.
The Shopping in Dublin
If you have limited time in the city, the best place to satisfy your cultural and shopping needs is at the Gallery Shop at the National Gallery of Ireland. Entry to the permanent exhibitions is free, and once you’ve walked the three levels spanning early Renaissance art to modern-day masterpieces, you can peruse the gift shop on the main level, which features goods inspired by the works on display as well as Irish-made stationery, accessories, and souvenirs that are perfect for packing up with you.
Spend some time (and money) at the Georges Street Arcade, Dublin’s own Victorian-era shopping center. Clad in red brick with charming terra-cotta turrets, the interiors are brightly lit by natural sunlight streaming in from the vaulted glass roof. The indoor marketplace houses approximately 50 shops, booths, and food stands to satisfy a diverse range of tastes.
The Irish take pride in their craftsmanship, and that’s on full display at the Irish Design Shop. Every item from the hand-cut crystal tumblers to the Merino-wool scarves to the chic, minimalist jewelry comes from an indie designer-maker with a fascinating story.
The Dining in Dublin
Victorian atmosphere is in no short supply in Dublin’s capital city, and Ryan’s of Parkgate Street truly feels like a step back in time. Settle into one of the tufted booths of the downstairs public house and knock back a few oysters while surrounded by ornate mirrors reflecting the light of antique gas lamps. Then head up to the main restaurant, where you can order cozy pub fare, a porterhouse steak for two, or a traditional Sunday roast.
While staying at The Merrion, one amenity that design (and dessert) lovers must take advantage of is The Merrion’s Art Tea, served daily in the Drawing Rooms. Diners are treated to a three-tiered tea tower with finger sandwiches, scones, and cakes, along with their choice of loose-leaf tea and an optional glass of Henriot Souverain Brut NV (for an additional charge). But the pièce de résistance is the final course: The Merrion Art Pastries. This is a rotating selection of three confections that are inspired by art on display in the hotel—truly a feast for the senses.
The Winding Stair is a bookshop cafe in an airy space that overlooks the River Liffey. Named for the W. B. Yeats poem, the restaurant specializes in modern Irish cuisine featuring local, seasonal ingredients.
The Activities in (and Around) Dublin
For an immersive history lesson, visit EPIC, the Irish Emigration Museum. This dynamic multimedia museum (great for all ages) encourages viewers to engage with the myriad stories of Irish migration and influence all over the world.
If the weather is favorable enough for an outdoor day trip, take a 30-minute drive to the quaint seaside town of Howth. You’ll feel worlds away from the city on the Howth Cliff Walk, which (if it’s not shrouded in fog) features sweeping, cinematic views of Dublin Bay, Baily Lighthouse, and Lambay Island.
History lovers likely already have a visit to Trinity College for The Book of Kells experience at the top of their Ireland must-dos, and it’s well worth the trip. The Book of Kells is an intricately detailed medieval manuscript and undoubtedly one of Ireland’s treasures. Viewers can see two pages of it at a time, which are changed every six to eight weeks. Additionally, you can view an illuminated sculpture of the earth, titled Gaia, on display in the Old Library, and take a guided tour of the Trinity Trails for an up-close-and-personal look at the oldest university in Ireland.
It’s definitely worth seeking out traditional Irish folk music (called “trad music”) while you’re in the capital city—and you shouldn’t have to venture too far to find it! O’Donoghue’s, a pub in Merrion Square that dates back to 1789, has live music that you’ll want to while away the hours enjoying.
The Accommodations in Kenmare
While a four-hour car ride crossing the country diagonally from Dublin to Kenmare doesn’t sound like it would be a trip highlight, passing the mountainous landscapes and rolling green fields dotted with countless sheep while watching the ever-changing moods of the clouds overhead is enough to put anyone into an otherworldly, dream-like state. This is the mindset you have as you approach the gates of Sheen Falls Lodge and pass through the allée of cherry blossom trees.
The original site of the hotel was developed in 1687 when the first Earl of Kerry built Sheen Cottage. Later, in 1854, a lodge for hunting and fishing was built, and some of those original walls still stand. Today, the 72-room hotel is well-positioned for lovers of the outdoors to get as close to nature as possible during their stay. Sheen Falls Lodge sits right between Kenmare Bay and the River Sheen, which, depending on the level of rainfall in the area, rushes rapidly or in an ambling flow past the property. The hotel’s grounds span 300 acres, and there are five offsite cottages for parties between four to eight guests to stay in.
Entering the main hotel, you don’t feel an abrupt divide between indoors and out—the luxe lodge feeling is infused in the considered decorative choices, which have been overseen by the hotel’s current owner, Dr. Stanley Quek. The rooms are painted in rose, green, blue, and gold to reflect the seasons and complement the natural beauty of the river and mountain vistas outside. Local craftsmanship is also on full display, as most of the textiles, such as the pillow covers and curtains have been made in Ballyvourney, a village in western Cork, the wood furniture also comes from western Cork, the pottery was made bespoke for the hotel from a studio in Kilkenny, and the majority of the paintings which line the halls are by Christine Bowen, a local Kenmare artist.
I had the great fortune of staying in the Falls Master Suite. These palatial accommodations offered the most lavish home away from home imaginable, complete with a separate drawing room with a bar, fireplace, and six-seat dining table, Jacuzzi bath, dual balconies, and a half-guest bath off the entrance.
While the drawing room is equipped with a TV, I could not take my eyes off the unbelievable views, which overlook the River Sheen rushing beneath an 18th-century stone bridge. While the rain was steady during my visit, occasional bursts of sun through the clouds caused stunning rainbows to arc across the sky.
The Shopping in Kenmare
Kenmare Antiques & Collectibles may be a small shop, but it has a museum-worthy inventory. Stop by to peruse antique silver, glass, porcelain, and furniture pieces at reasonable prices.
Even if you’re not local to Kenmare, you should visit The White Room to spark home interior inspiration for all your future projects. Originating as a retailer of handcrafted Irish linens and lace, it is now a furniture showroom, displaying wares in beautifully arranged vignettes all over the shop.
Because everyone from back home will be expecting gifts from your countryside travels, Nest is the shop to visit to satisfy everyone on your list. Stocking gifts for the home and family from both local and international makers, you're sure to find something unique here.
The Dining in Kenmare
If you’re staying at Sheen Falls Lodge, its on-site restaurant, The Stables Brasserie, is an easy choice for whatever you’re craving, whether it’s weekend brunch, dinner, or a nightcap. As its name suggests, The Stables used to house the horses on the estate, and the exposed-beam architecture and equine art throughout is a clever nod to the building's previous life. The meal I made on their wild mushroom arancini, tomato soup with homemade brown bread, and roast chicken breast was astoundingly delicious and comforting.
A standout local restaurant, Mulcahy’s offers local flavors in a meticulous presentation with top-notch service. Their beef Wellington and apple tarte tatin are crowd favorites.
For those seeking a special-occasion place for their final night or a milestone celebration, make a reservation at No. 35. The atmosphere is at once both relaxed and elegant, and the menu is varied enough to please every palate. While you can easily make a meal on their small plates, make sure to leave plenty of room for the chocolate-salted-caramel pear a la mode for dessert.
The Activities in Kenmare
Whether you plan to drive it yourself or have arranged transportation, the must-do activity while you're in Kenmare is to travel the Ring of Beara. This is a circular route around the Beara Peninsula (encompassing Counties Kerry and Cork) that’ll take half the day when traveling at a leisurely pace. The route, best done counter-clockwise starting in Kenmare, will take you on gently winding roads past seaside villages, stone circles, and some of the most breathtaking views of the countryside you will ever see. Some vistas contain mountains, farmland, and the shoreline all in one.
Naturally, when your accommodations are as cozy as they are at Sheen Falls Lodge, you might not want to venture far. Luckily, there’s plenty to do on site. The Lodge offers fishing on the River Sheen, horseback riding, archery, and clay-pigeon shooting among the activities on the estate. But our top recommendation is to reserve a falconry session, where you’ll get the chance (under the supervision of a trained falconer) to handle and fly a bird of prey such as a spotted eagle-owl, great gray owl, or Harris’s hawk.
It’s a good idea to plan for at least one “soft day” while in Kenmare, as weather can be a factor. Ahead of your trip, you can book a genealogy consultation to research your Irish ancestry and meet with genealogist Rachel Foley over tea in the library to go over your family history. Additionally, you can visit Easanna Spa for a soothing massage or facial treatment that’ll melt away your stress (and any lingering jet lag). Or simply enjoy a few relaxing hours in the inviting Sheen Lounge, watching the waterfall outside, nibbling light bites, and listening to pianist Jim Kiely. You’ll have a front-row seat to any rainbows that break through the clouds as well.
Follow House Beautiful on Instagram and TikTok.
You Might Also Like
