RVDK Ronald van der Kemp Couture Fall 2023
“After COVID[-19], everybody started going back to their old ways — times two,” said Ronald van der Kemp. “So I feel we should all take a step back, push the reset button, look at what’s happening in the world today and act accordingly. That’s what we’re trying to do.”
His fall collection, aptly named “Reset,” riffed on some things old and some things new in an art-happening environment, replete with installations and video.
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“I wanted people to see the clothes up close,” he said. “In this day and age, it almost felt inappropriate to do a show.”
Van der Kemp always inventively works with what surrounds him, starting with materials, then creates silhouettes.
“I was thinking about art — I do a lot of painting,” said the designer, adding he got a number of prints from an old hotel and began painting over them, prior to turning to the clothes.
In the middle of the main room stood numerous mannequins dressed in brightly colored hand-painted dresses. (Think school bus yellow paint rolled onto one’s skirt.)
Elsewhere, a white Mikado dress was decorated with hand-beaded details, and black and navy blue doodles of birds as well as other creatures by van der Kemp.
“These are post-COVID[-19] warriors for change,” he said, pointing to a criss-cross azure “stole jacket” in boiled mohair wool backed with silk that came paired with silk Mikado balloon pants. Next to that stood a soaring guitar-sword-like sculpture.
The designer showed videos mixing ‘50s footage with images of models wearing the fall looks, setting the scene for this joyful collection.
Van der Kemp also introduced his first perfume, called The Mind Vaccine, which just launched in Holland. He created the scent with Salle Privée and perfumer Isaac Sinclair. It includes notes of tuberose, raspberry, Sichuan pepper, amber, musk and coffee extract. Those are mixed with upcycled ingredient, such as sandalwood drenches, linalool and clove SymTrap.
“It’s a very classic based perfume, but with a little edge — like what we do really,” said van der Kemp, referring to his fashion. They sync perfectly.
Launch Gallery: RDVK Ronald van der Kemp Couture Fall 2023
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