The Remarkable Story Behind Gucci's Seminal Horsebit Loafer
The Gucci horsebit loafer is surprisingly spry for its age. The style is 71 years old, but—thanks to continuous reinvention by Gucci's design minds and rediscovery by generation after generation of stylish fans—never seems to slip one bit. And though it's a genuine icon of Italian design, according to company lore, it owes its existence in no small part to American tastes.
In 1953, Gucci opened its first store outside of Italy, in the lobby of the Savoy Plaza hotel in New York City. On a previous visit, Aldo Gucci, the son of founder Guccio Gucci, noticed that American men had a pretty serious penchant for loafers. Aiming to create something that would appeal to the local clientele, he decided that Gucci should make a slip-on of its own. As a nod to his father's love of all things equestrian, he substituted a metal horsebit for traditional American adornments like leather tassels and straps, and bam: fashion history was forged.
Immediately a smash-hit with Wall Street types, the horsebit loafer soon made its way onto the feet of Hollywood's A-list—and into the very fabric of how we all dress these days. Made new again under the creative direction of Tom Ford in the 1990s, Alessandro Michele in the 2010s and early 2020s, and, since 2023, Sabato De Sarno, the style never strays far from its original design and yet proves endlessly malleable and effortlessly wearable.
Ultimately, the horsebit loafer's versatility and and staying power—not to mention comfort—come down not to the name on the insole but the craftsmanship, materials, and know-how that go into making it. And that's exactly what we're exploring in the latest episode of our series Iconic. Enjoy the show.
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