Primark Goes Circular With a New Collection That’s Born to Be Recycled
LONDON — Like many of its fast-fashion counterparts, Primark is looking to give its clothing a longer life, cut down on waste and join the circular economy.
As part of those efforts, it has unveiled a 35-piece Circularity Collection that’s been designed to be worn for more than one season, and then resold, donated or recycled.
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The Dublin-based fashion retailer claims the collection is the first of its kind and the fruit of its new Circular Product Standard, a framework that dictates how Primark plans to design products now, and in the future.
Primark said the Circular Product Standard is based on principles established by the Ellen MacArthur Foundation, and in consultation with Wrap, a U.K. registered charity and climate action nongovernmental organization.
The retailer has also been working with the circularity think tank Circle Economy, and the nonprofit sustainability educator, Sustainable Fashion Academy, on the new framework.
This new collection includes menswear, womenswear and children’s basics such as wide-leg denim and relaxed-fit jeans; denim overshirts, and T-shirts.
Prices range from 4 pounds to 20 pounds. Primark, which in the past has been criticized for its fast-fashion approach, said it is “committed to make more sustainable fashion affordable for customers.”
The collection lands in-store and across all markets this week, with more circular clothing drops planned for later in the year.
Primark said the launch is the first step on a very long journey into the circular economy. The new framework, Primark added, will help it to become more nimble, and to make more of its clothing durable and recyclable.
Nicholas Lambert, Circular Product lead at Primark, said the new collection brings together “years of work to create a new framework [and enable] our product teams and suppliers to create more circular products that are designed with the end in mind. While we hope our customers enjoy wearing every piece in the collection, we also want to bring them on this journey with us as we look to change mindsets about what an affordable, circular product looks like.”
Lambert said the new collection was created by a small group of Primark designers, buyers and suppliers who were piloting the Circular Product Standard.
“While we know this is just one small step in our commitment to become a more circular business, we’re excited to roll these new design principles out across our business and with more suppliers, allowing us to scale it up,” he added.
Jules Lennon, fashion lead at the Ellen MacArthur Foundation, added: “We must transition to a circular economy for fashion. Primark is taking a step forwards in its long-term circular economy journey. Now there is a clear pathway and a need to continue driving action, at pace and scale.”
The clothes in the collection are made from at least 95 percent cotton from the Primark Sustainable Cotton Program, which trains cotton farmers to use less water and fewer chemical fertilizers and pesticides. It also allows the farmers to increase their profits by adopting more sustainable methods.
The remaining 5 percent of the collection is made from trims, embellishments or buttons, “which, where possible, have been designed to be removable or recyclable,” according to Primark.
The new collection has also been tested for increased durability, while every piece has been made to be recycled into new fibers, or new products.
Primark said that customers can drop their pre-loved clothing off at their local textile donation point, which are available outside large shopping centers in the U.K., and at Primark stores in selected markets.
Primark has also published the details of the Circular Product Standard, and said the framework will be used by product teams and suppliers to support the retailer’s “ambition that its clothes be worn for as long as possible, and then recycled.”
The framework details will be updated annually to reflect Primark’s progress in the space, the store said.
Last year Primark launched the framework pilot, training an initial group of designers, buyers and suppliers in circular design. This training program is set to be rolled out to more than 500 members of Primark’s product teams this year, and additional selected suppliers.
Primark did not specify what it pays the workers who are producing the new, circular garments.
The company, which does not own its factories, said it works in collaboration with industry, NGOs and governments to find ways to improve the livelihoods of workers in its supply chain. Primark was among the retailers and brands that were caught up in the controversy surrounding the Rana Plaza disaster in Bangladesh, and which subsequently became involved in improving working conditions in the garment industry in that country.
The retailer said it is committed to pursuing a living wage for the workers in its supply chain, as defined by the Global Living Wage Coalition. The company added that it is improving its own purchasing practices.
Primark is also a founding member of Action, Collaboration, Transformation (ACT), an agreement between trade unions, global brands and retailers that is aimed at transforming the garment, textile and footwear industry and achieve living wages for workers.
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