NYFW’s Retail Winners: Thom, Proenza, Khaite and More
The back-to-it-ness of the fall 2023 New York Fashion Week came across loud and clear not just in designers’ collections, but also through greater interest in what was actually shown on the runways versus front-row posers.
That’s not to say the celebrities weren’t well-represented. But designers seemed to redirect the focus to what they created, which in many cases were wearable, reason-to-buy styles. That didn’t mean boring or basic, however, as evidenced by the strong response to LaQuan Smith’s evocative eveningwear, Khaite designer Cate Holstein’s precise and plush styles, Rodarte’s fantastical “Gothic Fairies”-inspired creations, Proenza Schouler’s smartly polished sportswear and Thom Browne’s imaginative and interchangeable pieces. Some designers, like Anna Sui, opted for smaller audiences than in seasons past to magnify their designs. The continued importance of genderless clothing across all categories was increasingly widespread.
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Rickie De Sole, women’s fashion director at Nordstrom, summed up the outlook, saying, “After seasons of Instagram-friendly fashion, we’re seeing a return to pragmatism in the New York collections. The new look is all about a modern and desirable wardrobe.”
Bergdorf Goodman’s senior vice president Linda Fargo offered another viewpoint: “As the new normal continues to settle in, New York fashion swerved between reality dressing and flights of fancy. We’re coming along.”
Where that’s all headed remains to be seen. While retailers like Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue, Everlane and Stitch Fix have whittled down their workforces, the need to rev up consumer spending only becomes greater. And there is plenty of business to be had, as the luxury sector continues to gain potential. Its base of consumers is expected to expand to 500 million by 2030 from 400 million, according to the most recent Bain-Altagamma Luxury Goods Worldwide Market Study. In addition, the top-tier customers increased to about 40 percent of the market value last year, compared to 35 percent in 2021.
Acknowledging this season’s “stealthness,” Joseph Tang, Holt Renfrew’s fashion director, said: “The established designers opted for more intimate and quieter presentation formats which allowed new and emerging designers to place their stamps on the week via viral social moments and displays. The energy of New York continues to inspire us, which is seen best outside of the shows — the scene stealers of the street!”
“There was an excitement around the emerging set of designers, which drew some of the most enthusiastic and engaged crowds,” said Jodi Kahn, vice president of luxury fashion at Neiman Marcus. “We know our customer is inspired by newness — we particularly loved stepping into the worlds of Puppets & Puppets, Zankov & Palomo Spain. With Luar closing all of NYFW, we are excited to see the next generation take center stage.”
“With Thom Browne at the helm as CFDA chairman, there was a sense of freedom, individuality, expression and community seen amongst the designers,” said Roopal Patel, Saks’ senior vice president.
Here are the retailers’ takes on the season.
Linda Fargo, Bergdorf Goodman, senior vice president, fashion office and store presentation:
Favorite Designers: Thom Browne, Khaite, Marc Jacobs, Rodarte, Jason Wu, Altuzarra, Proenza Schouler, Ashlyn, Puppets & Puppets.
Key trends and items: Fantastical themes, couture influences and deconstructions; refined and quiet modernist luxe; elevated reality dressing; less is more; tailoring pared back to everything; the return of black after seasons of color; the body beautiful expressing new empowerment, nakedness in the age of full transparency, gender agnostic dressing. Maxi coats, strong-shouldered jackets, cling-on dresses, supple leather dressing, faux furry chubby coats, charming kitten heels, dangerously low-slung pants.
Surprises: Thom Browne’s prolific fantasy drama and phenomenal creations. We missed Peter Do, Studio 189, AnOnlyChild, and Theophilia and hope they are back on the calendar next season.
Arielle Siboni, Bloomingdale’s fashion director, ready-to-wear:
Favorite designers: Jason Wu, Khaite, Proenza Schouler, Brandon Maxwell.
Key trends and items: Leather, particularly moto styles; lingerie inspired dressing; car coats as the new outerwear shape; maxiskirts; shearling; pinstripes in suiting; monochromatic dressing; velvet and rosettes in eveningwear; brown, gray and red are the colors of the season.
Surprises: The minimalist shift cemented; monochromatic dressing; proportion play and texture were front and center; embellishments, cutouts, and Y2K dressing faded from the runways in favor of a more mature and practical aesthetic.
Rickie De Sole, women’s fashion director at Nordstrom:
Favorite designers: Proenza Schouler, Thom Brown, LaQuan Smith, Puppets & Puppets, and K.ngsley.
Key trends and items: Pared-back longer, leaner lines sitting closer to the body; red is the new pink; leather touches; stripped-down tailoring; Altuzarra’s beautiful folds of leather alongside jewel tones; Proenza’s skirt suits, Khaite’s cool-girl styles.
Surprises: The Area team plays up the couture side of New York Fashion Week, pushing the boundaries of fantasy and reality, and bringing playfulness to the week. The embrace of novelty like a banana invitation and watermelon slices as cocktail attire taps into the fun of fashion.
Roopal Patel, senior vice president, fashion director at Saks:
Favorite designers: Thom Browne, Rodarte, Cate Holstein for Khaite, Altuzarra, Jason Wu, Gabriela Hearst, LaQuan Smith, Proenza Schouler, and newcomers Luar, Willy Chavarria, Eckhaus Latta, Elena Velez, Batsheva and Ashlyn.
Key trends and items: Understated elegance with the minimalist approach to tailored separates in monochromatic, neutral tones; plays on proportion with long and lean silhouettes, a return to short, mid and long flowing skirts; sheer in everything from form-fitting gowns to catsuits and bodysuits; evening glamour in shimmery gold metallics, fringe, rich velvet, and delicate embroidered gowns; statement coats including chic toppers and luxe shearlings; Thom Browne’s surreal clock bag; the super luxe shearling at Khaite and the tinsel and fringe gowns at Rodarte.
Liane Wiggins, head of womenswear at Matchesfashion:
Favorite designers: Ashlyn, Altuzarra, Gabriela Hearst, Khaite, LaQuan Smith, Judy Turner, Jason Wu, Carolina Herrera.
Key trends and items: Understated but modern, with clean lines replacing exaggerated silhouettes; strong wardrobing with modern twists; Rohe’s blazers, outerwear, shirts and dresses; Ulla Johnson’s neutral macrame, black jacket, tulle skirt and shearling coat; bags from Gabriela Hearst, Ulla Johnson, Khaite and Proenza Schouler.
Surprises: The new Rorschach (named in reference to the psychological test) print at Altuzarra — a rich tapestry of color, elevated textile techniques with clever draping and tie-dye.
Marissa Galante Frank, Bloomingdale’s fashion director, accessories and beauty:
Favorite designers: Proenza Schouler’s 20th anniversary show had many exciting saleable pieces; Khaite for strong tailoring and chic accessories; Catherine Holstein’s beautiful collection created while being pregnant and planning a store.
Key trends and items: Red is the new pink; tall shaft boots, bold silver jewelry.
Surprises: An unusual amount of handbags and accessories brought to the forefront.
Joseph Tang, fashion director at Holt Renfrew:
Favorite designers: Catherine Holstein’s Khaite, Proenza Schouler, Thom Browne, Another Tomorrow.
Key trends and items: Stealth sophistication seen in luxe leathers, strong tailoring and minimal ’90s styling; red in buttery leathers and novelty pieces best at Gabriela Hearst; Theory’s low-slung miniskirts and chic, tailored jackets; denim-on-denim perfectly coined the “Canadian Tuxedo”; maxiskirt silhouettes and oversized cargo denim styles from Citizens of Humanity and R13; Thom Brown’s tweed jacket; Khaite’s constructed jacket.
Jodi Kahn, vice president, luxury fashion at Neiman Marcus:
Favorite designers: Khaite, Gabriela Hearst, Proenza Schouler, Thom Browne.
Key trends and items: A sense of palette cleansing; nipped-in waists; red; shades of brown; velvet; leather; tailored coats; belts; totes; Khaite’s tailored coats; Gabriela Hearst’s elegant long dresses with sculptural hardware and beautiful suiting with woven leather totes; Proenza Schouler’s tailored outerwear, nipped-in waist jackets, leather, rich browns, feather knits; Thom Browne’s clock-adorned bags, intricate head pieces, pulled-apart suiting.
Marc Rofsky, Moda Operandi’s buying director:
Favorite designers: Khaite, Proenza Schouler, Brandon Maxwell, Gabriela Hearst.
Key trends and items: A minimalist aesthetic seen in long, lean silhouettes at Khaite and Jonathan Simkhai; snug, sharp tailoring at Gabriela Hearst and Proenza Schouler; neutrals or graphic combinations of black and white at Carolina Herrera; metallic fabrications and details; shiny luster leather; Brandon Maxwell’s leather-on-leather separates and dresses; a sense of regal opulence including ladylike full midi skirts, box and knife pleats, rich velvets, velour, peplum in tops and jackets and Western influences including belted looks, hardware, fringe, and suede.
Surprises: Emotional outerwear including luxe oversized shearlings at LaQuan Smith, shibori dyed alpaca at Altuzarra. Evening coats appeared as a new must-have in satin or with restrained applications of embroidery or embellishment. Capes in various lengths and fabrications ranged from regal to practical at Carolina Herrera, Kors, and Khaite.
Beth Buccini, founder and owner of Kirna Zabete:
Favorite designers: Khaite, Proenza Schouler, Carolina Herrera and Alejandra Alonso Rojas.
Key trends and items: Deconstructed tailoring, hourglass blazers, organza, pleating, chocolate brown and red, lots of leather and shearling in statement outerwear.
Surprises: We are still seeing lots of feathers and sequins and fringe.
Tiffany Hsu, vice president of women’s wear and kids’ wear fashion buying at Mytheresa:
Favorite designers: Rodarte, Khaite, LaQuan Smith, Puppets and Puppets, Bad Binch TongTong and FForme.
Key trends and items: Big coats worn with big shoes, as well as slick, maxi-length silhouettes.
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