Nanyang Spice: $6 earthworm laksa tucked away in Sim Lim Square draws attention?

Dear readers, I am once again back to Sim Lim Square. The last time I was here, my target was not open, so I had to switch objectives (and found a hidden gem instead). This time though, my destination is actually open for business, and so we’re headed to Nanyang Spice.

This stall is pretty hidden, tucked out of sight at level 2, and the signboard isn’t very brightly lit. It’s made even less conspicuous by the fact that its next-door neighbour is none other than 3 Meals a Day – that eatery draws pretty nutso queues during lunch time.

When I arrived, it was very early, so the area was incredibly peaceful. Nanyang Spice’s menu is modest but varied. They have the usual kopi and teh, and an assortment of kueh. 

I did not expect to the latter, since most coverage of them focused on their laksa, lor mee and prawn noodles. They also had braised pork and pork trotter, as well as steamed pork patties with salted fish. There was also scallion oil chicken but it was marked as unavailable that day.

The eatery is very small, with seating for maybe at most 20 pax if you squeeze. The interior has a very retro vibe and Peranakan-inspired decor. 

There’s also a condiment station where diners can take what looks like condiments for the lor mee, as well as cutlery. 

What I tried at Nanyang Spice

The whole reason I’m here is for what they call Lumbricus Laksa. Lumbricus (or Lumbricus rubellus), also known as red earthworm, is used in traditional Chinese medicine for treatment of rheumatic, phlegm and blood disorders. They’re known as di long (地龙) which means “earth dragon”. Supposedly, their usage in laksa prevents the gravy from curdling and spoiling, which enables it to be left out overnight without refrigeration.

I order a serving of Fresh Cockles Laksa (S$6), because if the laksa doesn’t have cockles, I don’t want it. I also request for shredded chicken, which is an additional S$2. I add on a Soon Kueh (S$1.60 each) because I’m hungry, and since I haven’t been caffeinated, I get an iced Kopi (S$2.20). 

The Soon Kueh arrives first, slathered in dark, sweet sauce. The sauce, along with chilli, is optional – you can ask for none if you prefer. It’s on the small side for a soon kueh. 

I try to cut it without destroying too much, and it’s got a decent filling to skin ratio. The skin is also just right, not too chewy or thick, and the filling is pleasantly sweet and savoury. I just wish the Soon Kueh didn’t disappear in 2 mouthfuls.

The Fresh Cockles Laksa arrives not too long after. I notice a generous heaping of fresh cockles, shredded chicken, laksa leaves, and a single di long placed to the side of the bowl. You can specifically request to be served di long, otherwise it won’t be added to your bowl. I don’t dawdle and start digging in.

First off – the gravy. Does the addition of earthworms do anything at all? Taste-wise, not really – it doesn’t taste wormy or anything like that. It tasted like very good, creamy laksa with a solid hit of hae bi and coconut. The gravy is pretty smooth, too.

The cockles were large, plump and fresh. To see so many of them in my bowl gave me great joy – I’m so tired of receiving tiny, shrivelled up specimens that are barely larger than a bean. At first I thought that S$2 for additional chicken was a little high, but then I realised just how much chicken was inside as I ate. Scoop the gravy? Chicken. Lift up some noodles? Chicken. 

I do wish there had been more tau pok, though – they were delicious gravy sponges and not tough nor chewy.

And finally, we move onto the di long. If I didn’t know what it was, I would’ve guessed it was some kind of herb. I nibbled at it, and the texture is basically like dried cuttlefish. It’s surprisingly fishy with a noticeable aftertaste of dirt. Not the worst, but also not something I want to eat more than once.

While nothing to shout about, the iced Kopi is a decent and robust enough cup and does the job. There are others I like better, but this is fine.

Final thoughts

I’ve been craving a solid bowl of laksa for a while, and Nanyang Spice has hit the spot. The gravy is good, the ingredients are generous and the cockles are fresh. The service is friendly and accommodating and the prices are very reasonable. My entire meal came to under S$12! 

Expected damage: S$6 – S$10 per pax

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