N. M. Abdul Rahim: Fiery red mee goreng & kway teow from ex-Shenton Way hawker
Tucked between the Clementi stretch of AYE and West Coast Highway, Ayer Rajah Food Centre has always been a little out of the way for many. For the uninitiated, it can be hard to justify making a deliberate turn into West Coast Drive. But it is exactly here where you’ll find N. M. Abdul Rahim, a hawker stall stir-frying plates of mee goreng caked in crimson.
The first thing that stuck out was how abnormally kempt Ayer Rajah Food Centre appeared to be. Even on idle weekday afternoons, hawker centres seldom have as many spotless tables. Delightfully, each stall was even numbered with a blue backlit signboard, saving me the trouble of scouring the entire centre for stall 60. I was growing to really like this place!
What I tried at N. M. Abdul Rahim
N. M. Abdul Rahim is touted to have one of the best Mee Goreng (S$4.50) around so this order was absolutely paramount. That deep red is not a result of some editing trickery but rather sambal that has been stir-fried with mee goreng. The recipe has endured since the stall’s days as a pushcart at Shenton Way in the 1960s.
Green peas and cucumbers were an excellent visual contrast against the red, akin to oases in a hot desert.
In the opening act, the sambal-coated egg noodles treated my taste buds to a sweet-savoury flavourscape. The wok hei fragrance mixed pleasantly with the shrimpy sambal for a unique scent profile – eaten with the chilli sauce, it tasted like a modified sweet and sour sauce. And I love sweet and sour sauce.
Sparsely distributed green peas provided a chalky texture on occasion while the onion slices added just a teeny dab of pungence. I took special care to avoid the green chilli.
As I ploughed through subsequent spoonfuls, the heat built rapidly, necessitating a teh ice gaja.
If you’re a fan of egg noodles like me, their mee goreng and sambal are a great combination. Spice freaks will get a good kick out of it.
The Kway Teow Goreng (S$4.50) was tinted in a similar red hue, much to my chagrin. I cursed my abysmal spice tolerance for the umpteenth time before digging in. To my surprise, the sambal’s capsaicin assault was significantly subdued. With a tolerable numbness, the kway teow goreng’s charred bits delivered the strongest wok hei flavour yet, further enhanced by strips of fried egg.
The softer kway teow afforded more texture from the bean sprouts and green beans. There were also small starchy potato bits that had been hiding beneath.
As I continued downing the kway teow, its smoky undertones developed into a potently bitter aftertaste. It got to the point where I questioned if I was truly a fan of the wok hei way.
My companion, swearing by the dish, was more than happy to take over.
Ordering the Nasi Goreng Ayam (S$5) was a concerted decision towards variety. With chunkier potato slices and beancurd, we expected it to be a knockout. All the more disappointing that the fried rice lacked distinct notes of wok hei. Hilariously, it was the opposite of the issue I had with the kway teow.
This time, my companion wholeheartedly agreed. Compounding this, the chicken turned out to be so overcooked we gave up on trying it entirely. Ultimately, it was a serviceable plate of fried rice, but just didn’t cut it for nasi goreng. For how greasy it all was, we just needed more flavour to stand out.
The Roti John Combo (S$10) was our last order from N. M. Abdul Rahim and first impressions were mild at best. Neither of us expected to be caught so squarely by surprise.
The potato wedges had a pronounced crisp with soft moist insides, evidence that they were freshly hand-cut. The well-seasoned mutton was topped with an unidentifiable sauce that bore traits of tomato and chilli sauce, masking its gaminess just enough for the aroma to be tantalising. And the fried egg, oh, need I say more?
My only complaint was the dismal omelette, which was too thinly spread for the baguette-esque bread.
Once my partner tapped out, I scooped up every item on the plate, stuffing them between the bread to create the first roti john combo burger. Undoubtedly a future best-seller.
Final thoughts
It’s safe to say N. M. Abdul Rahim’s sambal-infused recipes enhance the existing strong flavours of wok hei which means the distinct red isn’t just for show. Their kway teow missed the mark for me, but I reckon the overly charred nature is up to personal preference. On to areas of improvement – the nasi goreng ayam would benefit from a lot more wok magic and the chicken less so. As for the roti john combo, it was an unexpected hit.
If you just want a plate of delicious mee goreng, N. M. Abdul Rahim is a must-try.
Expected damage: S$5 – S$8
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