Mr. Chow's Recipe for Success
I grew up wanting to be Mr. Chow. As a precocious teenager from Chinatown in New York City, I wanted nothing more than to be a part of the glamorous worlds of art, fashion, design, and culture during the 1980s. Michael Chow was at the center of those worlds and to me, no one was cooler—period. While my daydreams often felt like mere fantasies, shaped by tales I read in Page Six or glimpsed on the local news, there he was—a Chinese man—living a life that mirrored my wildest dreams.
The new HBO Films documentary, aka MR. CHOW, delves into the man behind the mystique. It unravels the intricate fabric of Michael Chow's life, presenting a narrative both inspiring and relatable, particularly to anyone who has felt like an outsider determined to prove the doubters wrong.
Born as Zhou Yinghua in 1930s Shanghai, he was the son of a famed Peking opera singer and a mother from a wealthy tea trading family. His formative years were a mesmerizing blend of theater, art, and film. At just 13, he found himself in a boarding school in England. This would be the setting for significant years, leading to him establishing roots in London by 1952, all while dealing with the pain of family separation.
After his education at Central St Martin’s and minor victories in painting and acting, including roles in films such as 55 Days in Peking alongside Charlton Heston and the Bond classic You Only Live Twice, Chow yearned for a fresh challenge. His dive into the restaurant scene was more out of necessity than passion. For Chinese immigrants in 1960’s London, the most common opportunities lay in laundries or restaurants—businesses my own family knew well.
Choosing the culinary path, Chow had a clear vision: elevate Chinese culture and food from its under-appreciated status to the pinnacle of sophistication and chic. The 1968 launch of Mr. Chow, offering Chinese meals presented by Italian servers and chefs from China, was revolutionary. It was more than just a business; it was a tribute to his lineage, spurred by his father's parting advice: “wherever you go, remember you are Chinese.”
Mr. Chow's acclaim wasn't just a London phenomenon. Outposts in Los Angeles (1974) and New York (1978) became magnets for Hollywood power players and the social crème de la crème. Famously, Mr. Chow New York emerged as the de facto clubhouse for the 1980s' New York elite, nestled on a surprisingly quiet stretch of East 57th Street. This hotspot was a non-stop party and attracted downtown icons like Andy Warhol, Jean-Michel Basquiat, and Keith Haring, along with the uptown beau monde who cherished their presence. Asked about this special time, Chow remembers, “one incredible night that stands out is Keith Haring’s birthday party. We had 100 bottles of Cristal open and dancing on top of the tables.”
While the archival footage and photographs of the prominent figures who frequented his establishments vividly capture the glamorous and successful world he cultivated, what resonated deeply with me in the film was Chow's unwavering commitment to elevate Chinese cuisine and culture. Equally poignant was the recurring theme of his pursuit of acceptance and belonging. His feelings of being an outsider, constantly seeking to affirm his value to both society and his family, felt deeply familiar.
In one of the film’s most poignant moments, we see the deep connection between Chow and Basquiat, united by shared feelings of displacement and Chow's intrinsic desire to shield his friend. Just as touching are the recollections of his incredibly chic and glamorous second wife, Tina, who passed away from AIDS in 1992. He held a profound love for her, and she played a pivotal role in making the New York outpost a resounding success among the glitterati.
The film also spotlights Chow’s unwavering inclusivity, showcased in his interactions with hip-hop luminaries like LL Cool J. (who makes a cameo in the film) and his embrace of individuals from diverse backgrounds who consider dining at Mr. Chow, a rite of passage along the road to having “made it”, speaks volumes about his personal brushes with marginalization.
Today, as Chow, now known as the artist “M”, returns to his first love—painting—his journey remains a beacon of inspiration. In a world where stereotypes can limit potential, Michael Chow stands as a testament to how dreams, backed by persistence, can prevail. His legacy is not just in his restaurant empire or art but in the indelible mark of a man who, against all odds, stamped his essence on the world stage without ever abandoning his roots. Reflecting on his Chinese identity, Chow remarks, “It is who I am. Always a part of me, yet something I've lost, continually searching and finding.” Truly, Chow is both a Chinese man and a global legend.
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