Molly Goddard's Take on the Wild West
The day before her Fall 2024 show, Molly Goddard is in her studio, apologizing to me about cowboys.
Part of her latest collection was inspired by her eBay wishlist, which was filled with children's clothing, specifically vintage western apparel. “I think I just love the great color combinations that are tied together with quirky elements—there's embroidery, piping, and all these little techniques that go into something that's actually quite utilitarian in that way.” Then she looked up at me and said, “But, as an American, maybe you can tell me if I’m thinking about it wrong.”
I assure her my own interest in cowboys is limited to the aesthetic. Western attire is built for a life I’ll never lead, and that's what makes it a fantasy.
Then, free of judgement, Goddard shows me how she re-interpreted cowboy boots in her collection: rounded Mary Jane ballet flats and tall flat boots in soft, contrasting shades of red, pink and yellow. Less sharp than the source material, they are clearly built for a softer life out of the saddle.
A model walks out from the back in a potential show look that ultimately made the cut for the show: a gray dress with rose embroidery and a low-rise brown belt hanging above a puffed-out bubble skirt, worn over black pants with more roses on the knees. It is a look that is at ease in the wild west of reality.
This comfort is exactly what Goddard strives for. Her signature taffeta dresses and tops—of which there were still many in this collection—may seem high maintenance from a distance, but the wearer knows the effect is the opposite. “Maybe this is only my frame of mind…but, to me, wearing taffeta is a bit like wearing a tracksuit, but just feeling a bit better,” she said. “I feel far sexier wearing something big and oversized and not body con. I know that's not how everyone feels, but I think there is a comfort to them. And they make you feel confident and quite strong. That's my take on femininity.”
It may not be for everyone, but it is that to me, too: What I love about Goddard’s tulle is that wearing a piece is so easy and reliable. I throw mine on all the time with jeans and still feel special, like a royal piece of light cotton candy. And for those who might not instantly see comfort in the fabric, this season Goddard offered some solutions: just wear a tulle skirt with a long oversized knit covered in rosettes or a cozy pastel pink long-sleeve t-shirt.
Thinking about how everyone could incorporate the tulle into their wardrobe was something Goddard really considered. “I think the more you wear it,” she said. ”The more confident it can make you feel.” If subtle quiet luxury pieces help you fade into the background, Goddard’s loud taffeta designs are built for owning the space you take up. And this season she felt that the end result is just right. “They were the perfect versions of what I wanted them to be.”
They were so perfect, she decided to design scrunched mountaineering bags that felt like an extension of the dress they were styled with. While I pick one up in my hand she noted, “Everything is quite blobby. There is a slight ugliness to it all, which I quite like.” And that's why wearing Molly Goddard makes you feel undeniably beautiful. Cowgirl or not.
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