This Midwestern College City Is One of the Best Places to Live and Retire — How to Visit

Few cities have had a bigger turnaround in the past few years than South Bend, Indiana.

Beset by a shrinking population and persistent economic woes, in 2011 the community of 100,000 was named to Newsweek’s “Dying Cities” list — a public declaration of a decline that locals had long witnessed. In the years after, though, South Benders (including their famous “Mayor Pete” Buttigieg) worked hard to reverse their fortunes. The downtown district was revitalized, new businesses and residents moved in, and the place began to gain regional, then national attention as a city on the rise.

That attention reached its apex in 2024 when U.S. News and World Report ranked South Bend 25 on its annual Best Places to Live list and 15 among its Best Places to Retire.

“South Bend is one of the best places to live,” says Alayna Wort, a program manager at the South Bend-Elkhart Regional Partnership, “because it's a big enough city to feel like you have far too many things to choose between doing and a small enough city that you truly feel known.”

I’ve experienced that balance myself in two stints living in the city. I attended college in South Bend and later returned to live and work there, and I can attest that whether you’re considering a move or just looking for an affordable vacation, there’s never been a better time to visit. As a native Hoosier and a longtime resident of “the Bend,” here’s my guide to the best things to do in one of America’s greatest emerging cities.

South Bend, Indiana

• Visit the University of Notre Dame, the city’s marquee attraction and a campus that offers everything from a world-class art museum to professional-quality sports.

• Stay in the buzzy downtown district at an Airbnb or a hotel.

• Grab a pint at Fiddler’s Hearth.

• Tuck into a tasting menu at Roselily, a new fine dining hot spot.

• Weather permitting, borrow a bike or a raft to go exploring along the St. Joseph River.

Best Things to Do

Visit Notre Dame.

“South Bend’s number one attraction,” says Jeff Jarnecke, executive director of Visit South Bend Mishawaka, “is the University of Notre Dame.” The football stadium and the golden-domed Main Building are the best-known sites on this famously beautiful campus, but, as an alumna, I have two other recommendations: taking a walk around the lakes (views are best from St. Joseph’s northern shore) and catching a show at Washington Hall, which recently finished an impressive historic restoration.

Explore downtown South Bend.

Once seen as a ghost town, downtown South Bend (DTSB) is now a lively district packed with bars and restaurants. Families will love the automotive history at Studebaker National Museum, while adult visitors can curl up in a cozy coffee shop like Chicory Cafe.

Take in the local arts scene.

Thanks to its low rents and gritty, can-do spirit, South Bend is packed with hardworking creatives. To explore their world, attend a show at the South Bend Civic Theatre or the offbeat arts incubator LangLab, or pop into Make South Bend to browse local art or take a workshop.

Get outside.

A landlocked city known for its winter “permacloud” may not sound like an outdoor paradise. But, when the weather even slightly allows, South Benders love to get outside. Downtown, you can bike on the new Link Trail or go whitewater rafting on the St. Joseph River, while, just south of the city, Potato Creek State Park offers hiking, fishing, and cross-country skiing — plus an in-progress lodge that, when completed, will be Indiana’s first new state park lodge since 1939.

Related: 10 Best Small Towns in the Midwest

Best Places to Stay

The Morris Inn

The four-star Morris Inn is the unrivaled best hotel in town. Though located on campus at Notre Dame, this isn’t a stodgy college building — it boasts plush rooms and suites, quality dining, and attentive service that will appeal even to visitors without a campus connection.

Airbnbs and Rentals

For options beyond South Bend’s relatively few hotels, choose from its robust selection of vacation rentals. Airbnb has options at every size and price point, while the local company Rent Like a Champion specializes in full (and often luxurious) homes perfect for football-weekend group travel.

The Oliver Inn

Just blocks from downtown, the 10-room Oliver Inn offers homemade breakfasts and spacious lodgings in a stately 19th-century Queen Anne home. Be sure to choose a package that includes dinner at Tippecanoe Place — it’s a historic fine dining mainstay located right next door.

DoubleTree by Hilton Hotel South Bend

For a solid stay in the heart of downtown, try the DoubleTree. Improbably for such a small city, it was designed by Helmut Jahn, the famed German architect who created Chicago’s Thompson Center two hours to the west.

Best Nightlife

Corby’s

Like all college towns, South Bend is chock-full of dive bars. Most college dives, though, haven’t appeared in Hollywood films. Corby’s is the rare dive that has, having played host to several scenes in 1993’s "Rudy" — and it’s worth a stop for football and movie fans alike.

Fiddler’s Hearth

For a Notre Dame Fighting Irish bar with an emphasis on the “Irish,” look no further than Fiddler’s Hearth. This downtown institution offers live music, a cozy pub atmosphere, and more than two dozen Irish whiskeys.

The Linebacker Lounge

Crowded as it may be with students and nostalgic alums, “the Backer” is a must for any visitor seeking the full Notre Dame experience. It’s my personal favorite bar in South Bend, so trust me: What it lacks in ceiling height and seating, it more than makes up for in cheap drinks and eclectic tunes.

The Exchange

Located in an old bank building in DTSB, The Exchange is one of South Bend’s only late-night bars catering squarely to the non-student crowd. Come here for excellent cocktails at delectably low, small-city prices.

Best Restaurants

The Lauber

A lively bar and grill located in an old sheet metal factory, The Lauber is emblematic of South Bend’s rebirth. A diverse pub-grub menu, a beer list with heavy Midwestern representation, and a popular seasonal patio are among the many highlights.

Barnaby’s

The original location of what’s now a regional chain, this South Bend institution has been cranking out delicious tavern-style pizza since 1969. Their rival a few blocks north, Rocco’s, also makes great pies — but, in my six-generation Hoosier family, Barnaby’s is king.

Dainty Maid Food Hall

South Bend has developed a robust pop-up scene in recent years, and in 2022, Dainty Maid opened to give longer-term homes to some of the city’s best temporary eateries. Current favorites include Revenant Coffee Bar and Piñata, a Tex-Mex joint serving dishes like burnt end burrito bowls and Nashville hot nachos.

Roselily

Located on the southern edge of downtown, this former pop-up is now one of just two AAA Four-Diamond restaurants in South Bend. Roselily offers a tasting menu, a la carte options, and, Wort notes, occasional themed dinners. “Their Italian nights in January 2024 were incredible!” she says.

Evil Czech Brewery

In a city with lots of great brunch spots, suburban Mishawaka’s Evil Czech became my favorite by offering a setup I’ve rarely seen elsewhere: buffet table after buffet table of breakfast and lunch small plates.

Related: Des Moines Is More Than Corn Fields and the State Fair — Here’s What We Love About This Midwest Capital

Best Time to Visit

The best time to visit South Bend can be determined by answering one question: Are you here for Notre Dame football, or for literally anything else? Because fall in South Bend is football season.

Game days in South Bend are an experience all sports fans should have once — the campus atmosphere is electric, activities (both on- and off-campus) abound, and depending on the year, they might also involve some of the country’s best football. If that sounds good to you, consult the Fighting Irish schedule and choose a fall weekend accordingly.

Travelers not seeking football frenzy, though, should avoid the fall, when hotel and airfare prices skyrocket and crowds are large.

“While South Bend will greet you any time of year,” says Jarnecke, “the summer months offer the most amenities, events, [and] experiences.”

Summer certainly is the best season for some of my favorite activities in South Bend. Temperatures are typically in the 70s or 80s, making it a great time to visit the South Bend Farmers Market (one of the Midwest’s oldest and largest); catch a baseball game by the local Minor League team, the South Bend Cubs; or take one of the outdoor fitness classes held each summer at Gridiron Plaza, a faux, mini football field located smack in the middle of downtown.

How to Get There

South Bend International Airport offers the most direct route into town, with flights from more than a dozen cities nationwide. The city is also easy to reach from Chicago, thanks to trains on the South Shore Line and bus connections from both Chicago airports.

By car, Interstate 90 connects South Bend to all corners of the country, and Indiana’s north-south artery, Highway 31, has its terminus here. Indianapolis, Chicago, and Detroit all lie within a three-hour drive.

Once you’ve arrived, renting a car is advisable, since the city is too spread out to see everything on foot (and transit is limited). If you’d rather not drive yourself, the area has plenty of Ubers and Lyfts.

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