This Luxury Expedition Ship Goes to Some of the Planet’s Most Beautiful, Remote Coastlines — Here’s What It’s Like on Board

The Wunambal Gaambera Traditional Owners were waiting for us, fanning an ironwood fire. A few hundred cruise passengers and I had arrived on Ngula, or Jar Island, which sits nearly 400 miles northeast of the city of Broome, Australia, in the Kimberley.

After jumping out of a Zodiac, we splashed ashore on a wide, sandy beach. The fire keepers beckoned us to walk through the ironwood smoke, in a ceremony known as jimirri meant to cleanse our spirits. It felt a bit like stumbling onto a movie set — but this was no just-for-show stunt. The cruise line Seabourn has spent years cultivating a partnership with the Wunambal Gaambera people, whose ancestral home stretches across 6 million acres between Broome and Darwin. With funding from Seabourn, as well as the government of Western Australia, the Wunambal Gaambera Traditional Owners have spent more than a decade developing tours, preserving cultural landmarks, strengthening infrastructure, and improving the experience for visitors to this region.

It’s a place filled with striking red-rock canyons and cliffs, idyllic white-sand beaches, sunken mangrove forests, and the magnificent peaks of the Bungle Bungle Range. Along with other Aboriginal groups, the ancestors of the Wunambal Gaambera lived in this part of the world for tens of thousands of years until they were forcibly relocated by European settlers. In 2011, Australia formally recognized a portion of the Kimberley as Wunambal Gaambera Country.

The destination is now on the radar of luxury expedition ships such as ours, the 132-suite Seabourn Pursuit, which serve as the ideal platform from which to explore this rugged, remarkable coast. During my 10-day trip, which departed from Broome, I quickly fell into a pleasant routine: I’d start my morning with a flat white and a blueberry muffin, then hop aboard a Zodiac for a morning excursion: a bird-watching tour, a cruise past 250-foot-high waterfalls, or a trip to rock-art sites dating back 45,000 years. The preponderance of 1,000-pound saltwater crocodiles — I spotted eight — meant that there were no kayaking excursions on offer. “Never put your hands or legs in the water,” a member of the expedition team warned, while reassuring us that he’d never heard of a croc attacking a fully loaded Zodiac.

After touring places such as Talbot Bay, with its stunning sandstone canyons, we’d return to the Pursuit in time for a late lunch; some guests would then head back out for more exploring in the heat of the afternoon. I often stayed aboard to hit the spa, enjoy the small infinity pool, or join one of the many free fitness classes. By the time the sun was setting, I’d find my way to the top-deck Sky Bar for some pre-dinner Champagne and caviar from Thomas Keller’s Regiis Ova label, both included on every Seabourn sailing.

The combination of rugged adventure by day and low-key luxury by night was a hit with many of the guests on board, most of whom were over 60 and didn’t want to sacrifice comfort to see the Kimberley’s remarkable natural wonders. One unforgettable morning, a few of us were up at 5:30 to see Montgomery Reef, a formation that is nearly 2 billion years old and is surely one of Australia’s most remarkable sights — the country’s other famous reef notwithstanding. As the sky turned blazing orange, our Zodiac zoomed past green sea turtles, whose heads would pop above the surface and then vanish. The reef, which spans around 116 square miles, is all the more dramatic because of the area’s enormous tidal range: It seems to appear and disappear as water rises and falls up to 30 feet in a single day.

As we cruised along, the reef emerged from the ocean, with lagoons, inlets, waterfalls, and mangroves suddenly materializing around us. Like so many of our adventures, it felt primordial — a trip not only through ancient lands but through time itself.

Here’s a closer look at the luxury expedition ship Seabourn Pursuit, with my review of its amenities and shore excursions, along with details about where it sails.

Seabourn Pursuit

• The 24-member expedition team’s enthusiasm, knowledge, and skills made traversing crocodile-infested waters safe and comfortable, including for many guests aged 65 and up.

• Even entry-level veranda suites feel spacious and offer amenities like walk-in closets, warming cupboards for wet suits or polar attire, and personalized bars.

• The ship’s crew is warm and attentive so cruisers feel coddled at all times.

• The food and drinks are top-notch, including the complimentary Champagne and caviar from Regiis Ova, a brand co-owned by chef Thomas Keller, which is served anywhere, anytime.

The Staterooms

All 132 accommodations are suites with private verandas. Most are Veranda Suites, measuring 355 square feet, including a 75-square-foot balcony with a table and chairs. I stayed in one, and though I found it compact, it did have many nice touches: a comfy living area, walk-in closet, interactive flat-screen TV, personalized bar and refrigerator, and a warming cupboard for gear such as wetsuits. (On polar cruises, the cupboard is ideal for jackets and boots.) Queen-size beds feature silky sheets and a soft, medium, and firm pillow for each side. Spacious marble baths, with Molton Brown products, have double-wide sinks, a big tub, and a tight-squeeze shower. Through the suite, outlets and USB ports are plentiful, and home–like touches, including a world atlas, a cashmere throw, and Swarovski Optik binoculars to borrow, feel luxurious. Surprisingly, there’s no en-suite coffee machine.

Larger Penthouse Suites with private bedroom areas run 527 square feet including a 97-square-foot veranda, yet my favorite is the Panorama Penthouse Suite, smaller at 417 square feet, but with giant floor-to-ceiling curved glass walls that reveal stunning outside views. Owners Suites encompass 1,023 square feet with a full-size dining table, lounge chairs, and fancy foyers, while Signature Suites feature wraparound balconies with Jacuzzis. The two duplex Wintergarden Suites, the ship’s crème de la crème, offer double-height views with upstairs bedrooms and two verandas totaling 205 square feet.

Bars and Restaurants

The Restaurant, as the ship’s main dining room is known, is typically quiet at breakfast and lunch, when guests often choose in-room dining or the buffet-driven Colonnade. Dinner service doesn’t always dazzle, but it never disappoints. On my trip, favorites included Guinness-braised short rib, fresh snapper with cauliflower, and nightly soufflés. The Restaurant emphasizes fresh fish, like Australian barramundi. Some steaks hail from highly rated Washington state-based Double R Ranch. When possible, the ship sources other local ingredients, such as oysters from a farm in Kuri Bay, Australia. I adored the nightly petits fours plate — something that’s now rare on luxury cruise lines.

The Colonnade often themes its buffet lunches and dinners and, as a plus, offers outdoor seating. (The hoouse-made sorbets and gelatos were a highlight for me.) Some evenings, the ship offered an alluring Earth & Ocean menu in the Colonnade: I could have made a meal of the crusty fresh-baked bread, tapenade, and rustic smoked chicken pâté that came out as starters.

Seabourn Square is the place for coffee, as well as quick bites at breakfast and lunch.

For a ship of its size, Seabourn Pursuit has plenty of bars and lounges. My favorite was the intimate outdoor Sky Bar, with its sweeping ocean and sunset views. Pre-dinner, the Constellation Lounge vibes as the buzziest; many passengers return post-dinner. The elegant Club with shimmery gold chairs offers afternoon tea and a dance floor. The far-forward Bow Lounge on Deck 6 offers great ocean views, daytime snacks, a self-serve espresso machine, and touchscreens showing the ship location, plus navigational and scientific information.

Complimentary wines served on board included many made in Australia, and there were a few standouts. A premium list has many choices at various price points; the sommelier will store unfinished bottles if you like. Complimentary spirits include popular premium brands such as Remy Martin VSOP, Glenfiddich, Bombay Sapphire, and Ketel One. The much-admired Regiis Ova caviar, co-owned by star chef Thomas Keller, is served anytime, anywhere in generous portions. I often enjoyed mine with a glass of complimentary Champagne Montaudon Brut NV.

In-suite dining is available 24/7, from a large, varied menu. During dinner hours, cruisers can order multi-course meals from the Restaurant to be served course by course in your suite or on your veranda.

Where Seabourn Pursuit Sails

Seabourn Pursuit offers Kimberley cruises May through August and visits other Pacific Ocean destinations, including Indonesia and French Polynesia, before heading to the Chilean fjords and Antarctica in November.

Shore Excursions

Sailing the Kimberley requires rigorous safety standards and an expedition team that can execute them. On my voyage, a 24-member team did just that — no easy task with many older passengers. The energetic, experienced crew constantly repeated warnings about the 1,000-pound-plus saltwater crocodiles lurking silently beneath the water’s surface. With crocs around, we couldn’t go kayaking, something that’s possible on other Seabourn expeditions. Strong tides also meant we couldn’t use the ship’s two impressive submarines (which have numerous built-in fail-safes), but they’re sometimes deployed on other itineraries, depending on the conditions.

What we could do was explore by Zodiac, and every day seemed to be better than the one prior. We spotted the twin, 250-foot-high King George Falls. We marveled at gigantic crocodiles lounging on white-sand beaches. And we motored past deeply gorged sandstone rock formations more than 350 million years old. Every outing felt like a trip back to prehistoric times — like Jurassic Park by sea.

Amenities and Entertainment

Almost all daily excursions are included in the fare, with only truly over the top things like helicopter tours at extra cost. Expedition team members lead engrossing lectures, and also spend free time engaged in conversations with passengers. One day, I met team member Emily Fosbery for an impromptu discussion about crocs, for example.

The small infinity pool on Deck 5 is flanked by two whirlpools. Two more, with a bit more privacy, are located by the Sky Bar on Deck 9. The spacious fitness center features weight and exercise machines. A boutique carries everything from jewelry and clothing to sundries.  The Spa and Wellness retreat offers many treatments, from facials and body wraps to massages, plus steam rooms and saunas. Complimentary classes include total body conditioning, abs classes, yoga, and guided stretching. The salon provides manicures and pedicures, as well as hair styling.

As is typical aboard expedition ships, entertainment is limited but pleasing: think piano tunes and an entertaining vocals-and-guitar duo. We also had a dance party with a DJ under the stars one night. In a special flourish for my trip, which was the inaugural sailing in the Kimberley, two renowned Australian opera singers came aboard to perform, outshining every entertainer I’ve ever seen on a ship.

One other note: the ship’s “open bridge” policy means guests can visit the nerve center of the ship any time and observe how the captain and crew work.

Family-friendly Offerings

Seabourn Pursuit does not offer a youth program, and I didn’t see any children on my sail. That said, the cruise line does allow children aged 6 and older on expedition voyages, as a matter of policy. Senior officers on the ship are tasked with the final determination on whether or not children may participate in any given excursion considering weather, sea conditions, and disembarkation challenges at locations visited.

Accessibility

Seabourn leans into accessibility, providing lots of information such as vendor suggestions for the rental of mobility devices, and a special email address for guest queries (access@seabourn.com). There are five wheelchair-accessible suites on board Pursuit.

Expeditions can nevertheless present challenges, and would-be passengers are advised to contact the Shore Excursions Department before embarkation. On my sail, I noticed one guest who used a wheelchair participating in many outings; the crew was always willing to help accommodate his needs.

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