This Lesser-visited City on the Italian Riviera Is the Birthplace of Pesto — How to Visit

Here’s how to plan the perfect trip to Genoa.

When we arrived in Genoa, also called Genova, we discovered much about this destination that many in Italy already know: That it’s a little gritty but highly welcoming, the pasta is as fabulous as any you’ll find in Florence, and it’s not plagued by over-tourism. “It’s off the beaten path. So you see something others have not seen,” said Matteo Della Grazia, co-founder of Fuoritinerario - Discover Your Italy travel company. Andrea Grisdale, CEO and founder of ICBellagio, agrees: “Genoa offers a unique experience. Visitors can enjoy a great location without the crowds, often feeling like they’re among the few foreign tourists there.” I can confirm we didn’t hear many Americans (like us) during our trip.

Located in Northern Italy’s Liguria region, this vibrant port city has a tremendous history. Genoa’s port (which has been reimagined by famed architect Renzo Piano) was a major hub for maritime trade for centuries and had substantial influence over commerce between Europe, Africa, and the Middle East. The wealth and influence of its merchants is still evident in Genoa’s grand architecture and layout. The city, built across various elevations and connected by funiculars, elevators, and steep stairways, cascades down the surrounding hills into the harbor. Christopher Columbus’s childhood home is just a short walk from the iconic black-and-white striped Cathedral of San Lorenzo.

“The one thing that surprises people the most about Genoa is the great shopping and how stylish and vibrant it is. People think it’s going to be a boring port city,” said Grisdale. “There’s always this surprise about just how beautiful and special the city itself is.” It’s also a great home base for exploring beyond the city bounds. From Genoa, you can easily go to places like Portofino, Camogli, Rapallo, Santa Margherita Ligure, the Cinque Terre, and into Piedmont wine country.

Get a taste of what the city offers based on tips from our Italian travel experts and my experience in this distinctive destination.

Genoa, Italy

• Wander Boccadasse. Stroll the colorful fishing neighborhood, enjoy a sunset cocktail or gelato, and admire the Ligurian Sea.

• Shop for artisan goods. Seek out small shoemakers and leatherworkers, and visit Romanengo to taste treats from Italy’s first confectionery factory.

• Sleep in a renovated palace. Genoa has a few luxury boutique hotels where you can rest like a royal, including Palazzo Durazzo.

• Eat classic Genoese cuisine. Pesto, focaccia, and farinata are the big three. Find them all over the city at unassuming trattorias and delicatessens like Sa Pesta and Panificio Mario.

• Take a day trip. Hop on a train or ferry to nearby Camogli or Portofino for hiking, swimming, and an aperitivo with a view.

Best Hotels & Resorts

Palazzo Durazzo

Palazzo Durazzo is a former doge’s residence that underwent a seven-year restoration. Inside, you’ll find antiques and original murals alongside contemporary Italian design. “Palazzo Durazzo is a boutique property with only 12 rooms, ideal for luxury clients, especially art and history lovers,” Grisdale said.

Grand Hotel Savoia

“Established in 1897, the hotel has a long history and has hosted numerous notable guests,” Grisdale said. Located near Principe Station and a short walk to the port, Grand Hotel Savoia is classic Italian elegance with modern comfort. The rooftop terrace has incredible views of Genoa.

Palazzo Grillo

“If you compare hotel rates with big cities like Rome, Venice, Florence, or the Amalfi Coast, hotel rates in Genoa are reasonable,” Della Grazia said. Such is the case for this boutique hotel within a palace. Expect historic frescos and old-world elegance amid modern amenities.

Hotel Continental

“This is a well-managed four-star property,” Della Grazia said. Housed in a late 19th-century Art Nouveau building with colorful velvet and marble decor, Hotel Continental’s proximity to the Piazza Principe railway station makes it an excellent option if you plan on taking a train to other places in Italy.

Hotel Melia Genova

This modern hotel is on a quiet tree-lined street away from the mazelike streets of the city center but still within walking distance. Though part of an international Spanish hotel chain, Melia still feels like part of the fabric of this Italian city. While the hotel might not have the historic allure of more central locations, it makes up for this with a peaceful atmosphere and exceptional service.

Best Things to Do

Explore Boccadasse.

The charming and picturesque neighborhood of Boccadasse is a former fishing village with stunning views of the Ligurian Sea from its small, pebble-strewn beach. Boccadassee's colorful, pastel-colored waterfront restaurants and bars are fabulous for a sunset cocktail or gelato, but the town is also worth a morning stroll. “We enjoy visiting in the morning when many locals are active, as it’s a great time to see them going about their daily routines, shopping, and visiting the markets,” Grisdale said.

Unless you stay in that area, you’ll likely need to take a taxi to and from Boccadasse. Book that in advance and agree with the cab who’s taking you there to be picked up, or get their number before they drop you off.

Tour the historic center of Genoa.

Genoa’s medieval core is a labyrinth of narrow alleyways, called caruggi, lined with centuries-old buildings, piazzas, artisan shops, cafes, and trattorias. Look closely at the colorful architecture — you’ll notice some of the windows aren’t windows at all but effective trompe l’oeil paintings. Spot a lively bar, order a well-priced negroni, and sip it while eating peanuts and olives. “Just be in the very heart of the city and explore and live as a local person. It is a city that is easy to explore on foot,” said Grisdale.

Henry James famously described Genoa as “the most winding and incoherent of cities.” Find out why as you ride the funiculars for stunning harbor and hill views and stroll down Via Garibaldi to see the facades of the Rolli Palaces, a UNESCO World Heritage Site comprised of 42 historic buildings once home to Genoa’s wealthiest merchant families. “They are magnificent,” said Della Grazia. “By visiting them, you can realize how rich and powerful these families were.”

Take a day trip.

First, a little background: “For decades, Liguria was the beach vacation destination for people living in Milan. In summer, all the families used to go to Liguria and the different beach towns,” Della Grazia said. That’s why one of the best things to do in Genoa is to leave it, especially in the summer.

You can find small public beaches within Genoa, such as the one in Boccadasse, but you can also hop on a train and, in less than 30 minutes, be in one of the smaller coastal towns where options for swimming abound. In Nervi, which is essentially the Genoa suburbs, you can pay for a sunchair at a beach club, take a dip in a small harbor beach adjacent to delicious seafood restaurants, or find space on the rocks under the 2.2-mile Anita Garibaldi Walk. “If you want to swim, think about whether you’d prefer a public beach or a more private, exclusive experience at a beach club. What are you hoping to get out of your stay?” Grisdale said.

If you like an active vacation, do as my husband and I did: Take the train from Genova Brignole 15 minutes to Camogli and follow the trail to San Fruttuoso, a stunning beach inlet only accessible via hike or ferry where you can spend the day swimming in the cerulean Mediterranean Sea. From there, you can continue walking or take a ferry to Portofino before returning to Genoa by bus or train.

Indulge in all the local specialties.

You can’t avoid pesto in Genoa. The savory saucy condiment was born here, and as such, you’ll find it on almost every menu, often over trofie pasta. Try pansotti as well; these traditional Italian dumplings from the Liguria region are like ravioli and are typically filled with ricotta and served with walnut sauce.

For a snack, you’ll want focaccia — Della Grazia favors Panificio Mario — or farinata, a savory pancake made from chickpea flour, water, and olive oil that’s crisp on the outside and soft on the inside. According to Della Grazia, Sa Pesta is the place to go if you want to taste excellent farinata.

Best Shopping

As Grisdale notes, “There are a lot of small artisan stores — small shoemakers and people who work in leather — but you can also find the more well-known shops. Prices, I believe, are some of the best in Italy.” One of the best ways to shop for local goods in Genoa is to wander and see what you discover. Via XX Septembre is your best bet if you're after name brands.

For a unique experience, visit the Romanengo factory and store, Italy’s first confectionery factory. Some techniques used here date back hundreds of years. You can even take a tour; “You’ll visit the historic 1814 store for a tasting of candied fruit, chocolates, fondants, and almond paste sweets in its exclusive tearoom,” Grisdale said.

Another highlight is the historic Mercato Orientale, which sells all kinds of vegetables, meats, and pastas. “It used to be the supermarket 100 years ago. It’s very traditional. You get excellent local food products,” Della Grazia said.

Best Restaurants

Locanda Pesciolino

Come here for fresh fish and creative interpretations of traditional Ligurian cuisine. The gentle, unpretentious vibe and top-notch service plays well with locals, so be prepared to order in Italian. Luckily, seafood pasta is delicious in every language.

Osteria Vico Palla

A classic Genoese trattoria, Osteria Vico Palla offers generous portions of fresh seafood, homemade pansotti, baskets of focaccia, and inexpensive house wine. Located in Genoa’s Old Port, it’s a perfect spot for a relaxing Sunday lunch or a lively weekend dinner.

Zeffirino

Established in 1939, Zeffirino is the place for pesto — the recipe has been in the family for decades. The menu offers traditional Ligurian dishes like pasta and seafood in a sophisticated, white tablecloth setting.

Rosmarino

“This restaurant blends traditional and modern dishes,” Della Grazia said. Set on the grand Piazza De Ferrari, Genoa’s main square, Rosmarino is an excellent spot to eat pesto pasta and vitello tonnato (thinly sliced veal topped with a creamy, briny tuna sauce) al fresco.

Trattoria delle Grazie

For rustic, inexpensive, and simply solid Genoese cuisine, head to Trattoria delle Grazie. “This is a traditional trattoria in the narrow alleys near the Old Port,” Della Grazia said. The menu has all the local hits (pesto, pansotti, fried anchovies), plus tiramisu.

Best Time to Visit

The best time to visit Genoa is in the spring and fall because the days are mild, the nights are cool, and the sunrises are especially spectacular. However, Grisdale says that Genoa is a destination you can enjoy any month of the year. “It’s not a destination that depends on tourism,” she says. “So you feel like part of a community no matter when you visit,” adding that Genoa is particularly magical during Christmas with lights, decorations, and a festive spirit.

Della Grazia agrees: “All seasons are good. Summer is good because you can combine Genoa with beaches, but winter and spring are nice because the weather is mild because of the influence of the Mediterranean Sea.” Note that many restaurants and museums are closed on Monday and Sunday afternoons year-round.

Euroflora, a renowned flower show, is held every five years in Genoa (the next starts in April 2025). It’s “famous all over Europe,” Della Grazia said. The Festival of Fireworks in nearby Rapallo happens July 1-3 and includes stunning fireworks displays and processions honoring the Madonna of Montallegro, the town’s patron saint. You can easily take a train to Rapallo, enjoy the festivities, and return to your quieter, less expensive hotel in Genoa that night. While in Rapallo, Grisdale insists you visit the fantastic food boutique Parla Come Mangi.

How to Get There

The easiest, and often cheapest, way to get to Genoa from the United States is to fly into Milan and take the train. You can also fly into the city’s small airport, often with a connecting flight through Rome. Once in Northern Italy, you can use the extended network of local trains to reach Genoa and elsewhere in Liguria or Tuscany. If you want to combine a visit to Genoa with a stay in the south of France, you can fly in and out of Nice and get between the two via train. Renting a car is also an option to get you to the city, but you won't really need it once you're there.

Related: Everything You Need to Know About Traveling Italy by Train — From the Best Routes to Local Tips

How to Get Around

You don’t need a rental car in Genoa, and figuring out how to park it might add unnecessary stress to your trip. If you’re staying in the city, stick to walking and trains — they are the best way to explore, though you can find taxis at the airport, near the train stations, and in the port area. You can also book via ItTaxi online. Genoa has a small underground metro system, but you’ll hardly need it if you have comfortable walking shoes.

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