We can learn a lot from Amsterdam, where life is blissfully normal
Many tourists visit Amsterdam with the intention of getting high. In a city blessed with world-class galleries, notable cultural sites, beautiful parks, extraordinary architecture and mile upon mile of cycle lanes and canal paths, “coffee shops” still exert a pull.
A couple of weekends ago I spent two whole days in Amsterdam on a high. Not because I was getting stoned, but because life there felt normal. I was high on the thrill of seeing shops open, cycle lanes populated and canal-side cafes busy. I was comforted by not seeing people in masks.
Daily life for most of us has changed. The mask-on; mask-off, glasses steaming up and reading the floor routine in shops and on trains and buses is joyless. Constant vigilance is draining; the sight of face masks disturbing.
As I queued at St Pancras to board the Eurostar to Amsterdam I observed a “sheople” mentality. Approaching the ticket barrier, luggage scanners and immigration I saw how passengers, myself included, awaited every instruction for fear of crowding someone’s space or, God forbid, breathing in it.
In terms of easing out of lockdown the Dutch have a good six weeks on Britain. Like here, time slots at museums must be booked in advance and the now-familiar post-Covid hand-washing and sanitising measures are very much in evidence – at visitor sites, shops, restaurants and in hotels. In an effort to reduce contact between housekeeping and guests my hotel was cleaning rooms only on request. Some shops restrict customer numbers and while customers generally stood aside to let another pass the Netherlands’ 1.5 metre distancing rule was barely in evidence.
Unintentionally, I broke the 1.5m rule on arrival at Centraal station. A dead phone battery meant I couldn’t access my ticket to exit the station. With barrier staff absent a local suggested I tailgate her through the barrier. Before I could say “are you sure?” I was through.
Masks must be worn on public transport (the fine for not wearing one is 95 euros), including taxis, but are not compulsory inside public buildings. Compared with British railway stations Centraal was busy. I was taken aback to see so few commuters wearing masks.
In Bar Kantoor, the restaurant I dined at that evening, nobody sat at the bar and Covid-adapted features included a QR code on the table for remote ordering. But it felt relaxed and unlike my first post-lockdown meal at home, where I was served by a waiter in a visor, and separated from other diners by Perspex, masks were absent.
The Netherlands did not see the strict lockdown measures imposed in other European countries. Prime Minister Mark Rutte pursued what is called “intelligent” lockdown – trusting the populace to behave sensibly and practise safe distancing. It hasn’t all been smooth sailing. In early May Rutte had to introduce additional measures after rules were flouted.
At the Rijksmuseum, home to the Dutch Masters, capacity in smaller viewing galleries was being monitored, as was access to the gift shop. Aside from that I wandered around freely, not worried about crowding anyone’s space, or concerned about having them in mine. Some may shudder at the thought but in the cycle lanes I got used to pulling up at traffic lights with several other cyclists and not feeling guilty, or mindful about wearing a face covering.
Sunshine and exercise combined with the thrill of the new helped, but after a day’s cycling around the centre and the west of the city, visiting a couple of museums, window shopping in the Jordaan district and strolling along the canals I felt like a battery on super charge. Pedalling off on day two, my serotonin level was through the roof. An outsider’s take on life in a city is always going to be simplistic. But from a tourist’s perspective Amsterdammers seemed to be getting on with life – sensibly and courteously.
For would-be travellers the road ahead is rocky. Melbourne will soon roll out compulsory mask wearing. Numbers of new cases in pockets of Spain are widely reported. Compulsory mask wearing is being re-introduced in Austria and Capri.
The current picture for the Netherlands too, is less than rosy. According to the National Institute for Public Health and the Environment twice as many new Covid-19 cases were reported over the past week (July 15-21) compared with the previous one. The reproduction number (Rt) is above one.
For every step forward we take several back. But what a shot in the arm my brief trip to Amsterdam was. For the first time in months I forgot about coronavirus. I felt like I was on holiday.
To find out more about travelling in the Netherlands see here.
• Read more: The best hotels in Amsterdam
