Lau Sum Kee: Cantonese eatery since 1956 with handcrafted bamboo pole-kneaded noodles, wantons & shrimp roe mee
Established in 1956, Lau Sum Kee is a heritage Cantonese eatery overseen by 3rd-gen Chef Lau. Forget about factory-made nonsense, the noodles here are made from scratch. In case you’re wondering, the dough is not kneaded by hand but with a bamboo pole, 1 leg and… ahem, buttocks (more on that later).
We visited the second outlet at Fuk Wing Street which earned itself a Michelin Bib Gourmand. If you’re interested to visit the original outlet, it’s just a minute’s walk away over at Kweilin Street.
Upon entering, glance to the left, and you’ll have a front row seat of the chefs dishing out bowl after bowl of noodles.
The wantons here are even made on the spot. I was astounded to see that the filling here consisted of 85% prawns and only 15% minced pork— this would NEVER happen in Singapore!
Before we started eating, Chef Lau led us to another shop space that he specially rented for the sole purpose of noodle production. He blends duck and chicken eggs with special Canadian wheat flour and alkaline water to create the dough.
Next, he brings the dough to his work bench where his only ‘helpers’ are 2 short stools and a long bamboo pole. Placing the pole over the dough, he perches on top and, with the help of 1 leg and the weight of his body, kneads the dough flat, folds it, and repeats this process 8 times.
This process is said to give the noodles a springy texture.
The kneaded dough is run through a noodle machine where it’s flattened further. The long, stretched dough is then cut into fine strands of mee kia. To finish it off, Chef Lau portions them out into bundles for easy handling in the restaurant.
After observing all the hard work that goes into producing a bowl of noodles, I appreciated it even more.
What I tried at Lau Sum Kee
I was intrigued by the plate of Shrimp Roe Dry Noodles (S$8.35). Though it was my second time in Hong Kong, I had never encountered this dish in my life.
After the noodles are blanched, they are placed on a plate and generously sprinkled with shrimp roe, transforming the noodles from a yellow to a rich-brown hue.
Yes, I’ve had springy noodles countless times. But the springiness here is on an entirely different level, with a texture that’s slightly crunchy. A wave of intense umami-ness coming from the roe dominated my taste buds as I had my first mouthful.
Just imagine the taste of hae bi hiam, but with its intensity magnified tenfold. I would say that this is an acquired taste. Those who are generally put off with the fishiness of certain seafood will certainly not enjoy it.
Even for someone like me who generally enjoys most seafood dishes, the taste was a little too intense and savoury. I was recommended by a local to mix in some broth, which helped to mellow down the shrimp flavour and made it more palatable.
We helped ourselves to the handmade pickled radishes on the table. It was crunchy and perfectly balanced, boasting a zesty punch which helped cut down the richness of the noodles.
We then shifted our attention to the Fresh Prawn Wanton Noodles (S$7.30). It was just a simple bowl of noodles with pieces of wanton and choy sum submerged in a golden translucent broth, topped with leek pieces.
Like the previous dish, the noodles had a great bouncy mouthfeel. Though the broth tasted clean, the alkalinity of the noodles somehow affected its taste slightly.
The wantons here are a knockout. The silky, paper-thin skin encases a burst of chewy fresh prawns, followed by a subtle hint of minced pork. To have a different kind of experience, try pairing the wantons with the vinegar served on the table.
Final thoughts
With a total of 3 generations running this age-old eatery since 1956, and one of its outlets earning a Michelin Bib Gourmand, this historic establishment seems to be heading on the right path.
If you’re in Hong Kong, head down to Lau Sum Kee at Sham Shui Po and have a taste of affordable handmade goodness.
Expected damage: S$10.50 – S$14 per pax
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