Kolor Spring 2025 Ready-to-Wear: It’s a Breeze
Junichi Abe has been chasing “very simple but very strong looks,” he said backstage before the spring Kolor show.
Uniforms served as the lightning rod for the season, their utility-first design an appealing basis because in his opinion, a garment doesn’t get any more memorable than that.
More from WWD
South Korean Brand System Opens First Flagship in Paris, With Big Global Retail Ambitions
Beyoncé's Nephew Julez Smith Debuts at Paris Fashion Week on Bluemarble's Spring 2025 Runway Show
Rebecca Hall, Sabrina Carpenter, Jeff Goldblum Make Loewe's Front Row
Other references folded into the collection included sports uniforms and security gear, other types of codified clothing encountered on a daily basis, Abe pointed out. They also brought a brighter side to the color palette: dark teals, yellow and purple complementing earlier beige, khakis and olive greens.
Congruent with warmer weather, Abe went for lightweight materials, particularly those that respond well to movement. Cottons, nylons and even summer-weight wools he deftly turned into parachute skirts, tailored slacks, generous windbreakers and boxy blousons.
Layered together without any extraneous bulk, the looks spoke of Abe’s deft hand at patternmaking.
Rather than embellishments, he used elements of other staple items as decoration, adding a shrunken version of a short-sleeve shirt as a front panel on a blousier version; giving a jacket flowing blouse sleeves; skewing wader overalls into an asymmetric jumpsuit, or turning the quarter-lining of a jacket into its eye-catching back.
On models taking a stroll around a secluded courtyard of elite Lycée Henri-IV, the collection telegraphed an idea of youthful lightness that had the irresistible draw of halcyon days.
For more Paris men’s spring 2025 reviews, click here.
Launch Gallery: Kolor Spring 2025 Ready-to-Wear Collection
Best of WWD
