Jin Ji Teochew Braised Duck & Kway Chap: 2nd-gen hawker modernises 40-year-old stall with jumbo bento sets & duck ramen
Imagine this: you show up at your stall every day, repeating the same preparations, cooking the same dishes, and serving them to your customers. Before you know it, you’re stuck in a monotonous routine, and things start feeling dull. That’s likely what Melvin, a 2nd-gen hawker, contemplated changing when he inherited his parents’ business, Jin Ji Teochew Braised Duck & Kway Chap, situated at Chinatown Complex Market.
The stall has been famous for its kway chap and braised duck rice since 1983. The food display shelves showcase a proud array of ingredients— from braised whole ducks and pork belly hanging on metal hooks to braised tau kwa, pig’s skin, intestines, and more, all in plain view.
In this visual age, where eating begins with our eyes and then our mouths, Melvin understands the significance of staying current and crafting innovative dishes to captivate the younger generation.
What I tried at Jin Ji Teochew Braised Duck & Kway Chap
Honestly, upon seeing the S$10 price tag on the Bento Combo Jumbo Set, I questioned the willingness of older folks to spend that amount at a hawker centre. As for its aesthetics, this plate of food is undeniably impressive.
Served on a Japanese-style plate, this dish had 3 duck rice balls with a slice of daikon in between, braised duck slices, salted vegetables, an onsen egg, pork belly, pig’s intestines, pig’s skin, and a serving of dried shrimp chilli.
I’ve come across chicken rice balls in Malacca, Malaysia, and I’ve even personally crafted arancini balls using cooked Arborio rice. Coming across duck rice balls, however, was a breath of fresh air.
Upon the first bite, I discovered that these spherical morsels were crafted from yam rice instead. The fried shallots and garlic on top gave the balls more personality by adding elements of crunch and aroma to it. It’s unfortunate that the rice itself leaned slightly towards the bland spectrum; I hoped for a richer and more profound flavour.
Among the components that truly stood out was the pig’s skin. Its remarkable tenderness and gelatinous texture caused it to dissolve in my mouth like liquid velvet, leaving a lasting impression on me.
I was happy that the eggs were the soft kind similar to those in ramen, rather than fully-cooked braised eggs where they are cooked to death. However, the yolks were just a tad overcooked.
The braised duck pieces were not only delicious but also packed with flavour. However, top it with some of the red dried shrimp chilli by the side, and allow yourself to be enticed by its concentrated richness and heat. The taste appeared as if it had been infused with the essence of 100 shrimps.
The pieces of intestines were pristine, devoid of any unpleasant gamey undertones. When I dunked it into the chilli dip, it unleashed a burst of revitalising zestiness that rivalled the awakening effect of a strong cup of Joe. There was also a gentle hint of belacan at the end.
The braised pork belly pieces were impeccably tender, striking a harmonious equilibrium between fat and meat that was simply perfect.
The Bento Combo Jumbo Set was accompanied by a small side bowl of broth as well. Its flavour profile carried dominant notes of star anise, coupled with the subtle intricacies reminiscent of a classic braised stock.
Opting for something different from kway chap, I felt drawn to try The Quack Ramen Soup (S$6) instead; I can’t help but to give him props for giving it such a quirky name.
The bowl had noodles, duck slices, bean sprouts, a whole onsen egg and was garnished with fresh coriander.
I wasn’t sure if the extended time Zheng Yuan and I spent exploring different photo angles and shots resulted in the noodles being in the hot broth for a longer period. Upon finally tasting it, we noticed that they had become slightly overcooked.
The beansprouts added some layers of crunch while the slices of braised duck tasted even better when left to soak in the broth.
The broth hit all the right notes of savoury and sweet. After a few spoonfuls, it struck me that the bowl resembled that of a duck mee soup more than a traditional bowl of ramen, if not for the inclusion of the egg and noodles.
It’s remarkable how much liquid a thick slice of daikon can soak up. As I bit into it, savoury broth gushed out in all directions within my mouth. For me, this was undoubtedly the standout moment of the dish.
Final thoughts
I applaud Melvin’s efforts for modernising the stall by offering dishes that are interesting and would look great on your Instagram feed.
Despite not being perfect, the Bento Combo Jumbo Set felt to me like a miniature tasting platter with a bit of everything on the plate; an ingenious concept, I must say!
Nonetheless, should I find myself at Jin Ji Teochew Braised Duck & Kway Chap once more, my choice would likely be their kway chap, given the delightful quality of their innards.
Expected damage: S$4 – S$10 per pax
Order Delivery: foodpanda Deliveroo
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