J & J Special Beef Noodle: 73-year-old uncle serving braised beef noodles & wagyu beef rice for past 15 years

Recently, I revisited my favourite Old Airport Road Food Centre and finally decided to visit J & J Special Beef Noodle, a stall I often pass by but have never had the chance to visit.

The stall was set up in 2008 when 73-year-old William was retrenched from his job and decided to delve into the hawker trade.

With a crown of jet-black hair that left us wondering whether it was dyed or a natural marvel, William’s remarkably youthful appearance nearly caused my dining partner, Lily, and I to choke on our sugarcane drinks when we learned of his age. Perhaps both of us are vampires who bathed in the fountain of youth (wink wink).

I found out that the initials ‘J & J’ actually stand for June and Justin, which are the names of his 2 kids— sweet, isn’t it?

The stall has many awards plastered all over its signboard, including local radio station, Class 95’s 2019 Foodie’s Choice for ‘BEST BEEF NOODLES’.

The stall front even has pictures of Ang Peng Siong and Yip Pin Xiu saying good things about his food. Internally buzzing with excitement, I couldn’t wait to start tucking in.

What I tried at J & J Special Beef Noodle

Upon a quick Google search, I discovered that J & J Special Beef Noodle had received reviews from several major publications prior to 2020. With an open mind, I was determined to see if Uncle William has maintained consistency over the years.

I started with the S$6 small bowl of Braised Beef Noodle and, after consulting Uncle William about the available beef options, decided to add Tendon for an extra S$2.50.

I’d like to give a quick shoutout to Uncle William. His warmth and friendliness reminded me so much of my own dad. He graciously thanked me and wished me well as I received my food; truly a delightful gentleman!

Unlike the traditional Hainanese-style with its thick bee hoon and dense, sticky sauce, the Braised Beef Noodle had a bed of thin kway teow instead served with beef shank slices, tendon, sliced white onions, tau geh, Chinese celery and fried shallots doused in a thick, dark gravy.

With each toss, the thin ivory kway teow sheets transformed, taking on an increasingly enticing reddish-brown hue. The beansprouts provided some crunchy bits, creating a delightful contrast with the soft, silky kway teow.

The raw onion slices, with their slightly-spiced pungency, were a personal favourite of mine; they balanced the richness of the overall combination.

As I lifted the jiggly piece of tendon with my chopsticks, Lily couldn’t help but comment, “Wow, it’s so shiny!” Indeed, it was a sight to behold, glistening against the bright sunlight that streamed in beside us.

What caught my eye even more was its remarkably bouncy and jelly-like appearance. I’ve savoured tender, melt-in-the-mouth tendons before, but this texture was unlike anything I’d ever encountered.

Having relished it, I can confirm that it truly fulfilled its visual allure, delivering a taste and texture that matched its enticing appearance.

The slices of beef shank didn’t disappoint either; tender and well braised.

If I were to credit one standout element of the dish, it would undoubtedly be the gravy, masterfully uniting all the ingredients. This velvety concoction boasted a rich beefy essence, harmoniously complemented by subtle sweet undertones, which struck a flawless balance with the savoury elements.

Costing nearly twice as much, the Wagyu Beef Rice (S$13) consisted of short-grained rice which was bathed in beef stock, explaining its enticingly rich colour. Thinly-sliced wagyu beef was adorned on top with sliced onions, egg and Chinese celery.

After thoroughly mixing the bowl, both Lily and I found the rice to be somewhat lacking in flavour and depth. I couldn’t help but draw a comparison to a traditional Japanese donburi, often featuring onion slices, egg, and savoury gravy over rice.

Although the wagyu beef slices were reasonably tender and had nice fatty layers, I felt that they were a tad overcooked and underseasoned. Personally, I would have preferred them to be served medium rare, but it’s possible that this is Uncle William’s customary preparation method for this dish.

Fortunately, I had helped myself to the chilli sauce at the stall’s front and it didn’t disappoint. It was delicately spiced with a subtle acidic kick which injected a lot more character into the wagyu beef slices.

Don’t miss out on Uncle William’s golden broth, served in a small bowl alongside your main dish. His innate talent for making broth shines through; it’s sweet and richly beefy— true liquid gold!

Final thoughts

Without doubt, I’ll be back at J & J Special Beef Noodle for another taste of their unique Braised Beef Noodle with out-of-this-world beef tendons.

Hopefully, on my next visit, I’ll have the opportunity to ask Uncle William about the secrets behind his ageless appearance.

Expected damage: S$6 – S$13 per pax

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